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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I'm planning to change all the 4 oxygen sensors on my car. I understand that the OEM are all NGK/NTK. But, I'm planning to use Denso for the wide-range air/fuel ratio upstream sensors and NGK/NTK for the downstream sensors. Is it ok to use two different brands? Your thoughts will be highly appreciated.

Thank you all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Bump. Any suggestions? Thanks.
 

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Hi all,

I'm planning to change all the 4 oxygen sensors on my car. I understand that the OEM are all NGK/NTK. But, I'm planning to use Denso for the wide-range air/fuel ratio upstream sensors and NGK/NTK for the downstream sensors. Is it ok to use two different brands? Your thoughts will be highly appreciated.

Thank you all.
If you are not throwing any codes, why bother???

I just got a P2240, front bank sensor, should be an easy fix. Wouldn't have even looked at it otherwise.
 

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I got a Denso one for my downstream O2 sensor like 3 months ago from Amazon for around $45, no problems ever since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you are not throwing any codes, why bother???

I just got a P2240, front bank sensor, should be an easy fix. Wouldn't have even looked at it otherwise.
I'm just changing them as part of preventive maintenance. My car has 137k on it. Bought it at 112k. Don't know if the previous owner changed them at 100k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bought two NGK/NTK precat oxygen sensors. Will replace them this weekend. Not changing the postcat oxygen sensors as they are there only to monitor the converter efficiency.
 

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There is not a mileage limit on those sensors, personally I would not change them unless there are codes indicating issues. I have a 2005 Acura TSX with 177,000 miles and I have not changed either sensor. I have a 2001 Acura MDX with 204,000 and replaced one sensor due to a bad heater.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Greg, my highway mpg is around 26-28 and in town is around 17 with a combined of around 22. I am just thinking my precat oxygen sensors are not working at peak efficiency. So I thought this little preventive maintenance would improve my mpg. I'll post my results next year!! (2014 is just a week away)!!!
 

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If you have a OBDII scanner, take a look at the long term and short term fuel trims. If the current long term fuel trim is 1 to 3 percent, then the engine is running as designed. I would take a baseline now and then another baseline after the sensors are changed.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you have a OBDII scanner, take a look at the long term and short term fuel trims. If the current long term fuel trim is 1 to 3 percent, then the engine is running as designed. I would take a baseline now and then another baseline after the sensors are changed.


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Thanks for the info. But I don't have one. Will AutoZone do it for a fee?
 

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I would think not, as they just scan for codes and tell you what code(s) are recorded. If you have any android phone or tablet you can get the information cheap by using a Bluetooth OBDII adapter $11.99 and an application called Torque, the lite version is free and the Pro version is $4.95. It gives all kinds of real time information on how the engine is running and it can read codes and reset them too.


Link to bluetooth OBDII adapter



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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would think not, as they just scan for codes and tell you what code(s) are recorded. If you have any android phone or tablet you can get the information cheap by using a Bluetooth OBDII adapter $11.99 and an application called Torque, the lite version is free and the Pro version is $4.95. It gives all kinds of real time information on how the engine is running and it can read codes and reset them too.


Link to bluetooth OBDII adapter

http://www.amazon.com/Excelvan-Blue...d=1387851244&sr=8-9&keywords=obd+ii+bluetooth


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Wow! Amazing. Thank you very much. I have HTC One. I'll look into it.
 

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Greg, my highway mpg is around 26-28 and in town is around 17 with a combined of around 22. I am just thinking my precat oxygen sensors are not working at peak efficiency. So I thought this little preventive maintenance would improve my mpg. I'll post my results next year!! (2014 is just a week away)!!!
computer dash light will tell you when its not within the parameters. I changed the rear sensor out at 110K and got another code recently at 225K that indicated out of range on the sensors, aka the cat is bad. I ran a tank of gas through with injector cleaner and it has not come back on since. I think I got a bad tank of gas. I would not waste the time or money as you can see from my mileage you have a ways to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would think not, as they just scan for codes and tell you what code(s) are recorded. If you have any android phone or tablet you can get the information cheap by using a Bluetooth OBDII adapter $11.99 and an application called Torque, the lite version is free and the Pro version is $4.95. It gives all kinds of real time information on how the engine is running and it can read codes and reset them too.


Link to bluetooth OBDII adapter

http://www.amazon.com/Excelvan-Blue...d=1387851244&sr=8-9&keywords=obd+ii+bluetooth


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Just bought that scanner off Amazon. Will test it with the free version of torque. If I like that free version, then I'll go and buy the pro-version. Thanks :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
computer dash light will tell you when its not within the parameters. I changed the rear sensor out at 110K and got another code recently at 225K that indicated out of range on the sensors, aka the cat is bad. I ran a tank of gas through with injector cleaner and it has not come back on since. I think I got a bad tank of gas. I would not waste the time or money as you can see from my mileage you have a ways to go.
I understand that - within parameters/range. I have a feeling that Car manufacturers give a very wide range to sensors before they throw a CEL. I think we will be running at the low normal range instead of at peak efficiency if we wait for CEL. The reason for my assumptions are the way my idle and throttle responsiveness are completely back to normal (almost like new) once I cleaned the throttle body. There were no CELs but it was clear, with the way the car was struggling with idle and on hot days, that the range of the sensors is pretty wide.

I do understand that I don't need to change them now.
 

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computer dash light will tell you when its not within the parameters. I changed the rear sensor out at 110K and got another code recently at 225K that indicated out of range on the sensors, aka the cat is bad. I ran a tank of gas through with injector cleaner and it has not come back on since. I think I got a bad tank of gas. I would not waste the time or money as you can see from my mileage you have a ways to go.
This. My 2004 threw a code light, I put a new sensor in and the light came back on within ~30 miles. Turns out the sensor was working fine - it was the cat that was bad (the sensor was doing exactly what it was designed to do).
 

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If you are getting 27 to 31mpg on the highway "during the summer" then you are fine. I regularly get 24 to 27 during the winter here in Chicago because of the increased amount of ethonol alcohol to 10%. I have 170k miles on my 2007 with original O2 sensors. So what you are doing probably is just a waste of money.

Consider:
- spark plug change
- air filter cleaning
- throttle body cleaning
- lighter foot on gas, more coasting, less idling
- higher psi for tires -> not ideal for winter driving
 

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I get around 31 to 33 mpg on mine....Also just changed the front brake pads at 210,000. Last set was put on at 100,00 miles... original rotors no pulsing.... cant complain at all...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you are getting 27 to 31mpg on the highway "during the summer" then you are fine. I regularly get 24 to 27 during the winter here in Chicago because of the increased amount of ethonol alcohol to 10%. I have 170k miles on my 2007 with original O2 sensors. So what you are doing probably is just a waste of money.

Consider:
- spark plug change
- air filter cleaning
- throttle body cleaning
- lighter foot on gas, more coasting, less idling
- higher psi for tires -> not ideal for winter driving
Changed plugs at 114,000. Presently I am at 137,000.
New Air filter 10 days back.
Cleaned throttle body a week ago.
Use cruise control whenever possible.
Tyre pressure as printed on door jamb sticker. Car rides rough with higher tyre pressure. It's a headache on Houston freeways with all those expansion joints.
 
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