I'm planning to change all the 4 oxygen sensors on my car. I understand that the OEM are all NGK/NTK. But, I'm planning to use Denso for the wide-range air/fuel ratio upstream sensors and NGK/NTK for the downstream sensors. Is it ok to use two different brands? Your thoughts will be highly appreciated.
I'm just changing them as part of preventive maintenance. My car has 137k on it. Bought it at 112k. Don't know if the previous owner changed them at 100k.
Bought two NGK/NTK precat oxygen sensors. Will replace them this weekend. Not changing the postcat oxygen sensors as they are there only to monitor the converter efficiency.
There is not a mileage limit on those sensors, personally I would not change them unless there are codes indicating issues. I have a 2005 Acura TSX with 177,000 miles and I have not changed either sensor. I have a 2001 Acura MDX with 204,000 and replaced one sensor due to a bad heater.
Greg, my highway mpg is around 26-28 and in town is around 17 with a combined of around 22. I am just thinking my precat oxygen sensors are not working at peak efficiency. So I thought this little preventive maintenance would improve my mpg. I'll post my results next year!! (2014 is just a week away)!!!
computer dash light will tell you when its not within the parameters. I changed the rear sensor out at 110K and got another code recently at 225K that indicated out of range on the sensors, aka the cat is bad. I ran a tank of gas through with injector cleaner and it has not come back on since. I think I got a bad tank of gas. I would not waste the time or money as you can see from my mileage you have a ways to go.
If you have a OBDII scanner, take a look at the long term and short term fuel trims. If the current long term fuel trim is 1 to 3 percent, then the engine is running as designed. I would take a baseline now and then another baseline after the sensors are changed.
I would think not, as they just scan for codes and tell you what code(s) are recorded. If you have any android phone or tablet you can get the information cheap by using a Bluetooth OBDII adapter $11.99 and an application called Torque, the lite version is free and the Pro version is $4.95. It gives all kinds of real time information on how the engine is running and it can read codes and reset them too.
I would think not, as they just scan for codes and tell you what code(s) are recorded. If you have any android phone or tablet you can get the information cheap by using a Bluetooth OBDII adapter $11.99 and an application called Torque, the lite version is free and the Pro version is $4.95. It gives all kinds of real time information on how the engine is running and it can read codes and reset them too.
If you are getting 27 to 31mpg on the highway "during the summer" then you are fine. I regularly get 24 to 27 during the winter here in Chicago because of the increased amount of ethonol alcohol to 10%. I have 170k miles on my 2007 with original O2 sensors. So what you are doing probably is just a waste of money.
Consider:
- spark plug change
- air filter cleaning
- throttle body cleaning
- lighter foot on gas, more coasting, less idling
- higher psi for tires -> not ideal for winter driving
Changed plugs at 114,000. Presently I am at 137,000.
New Air filter 10 days back.
Cleaned throttle body a week ago.
Use cruise control whenever possible.
Tyre pressure as printed on door jamb sticker. Car rides rough with higher tyre pressure. It's a headache on Houston freeways with all those expansion joints.
I get around 31 to 33 mpg on mine....Also just changed the front brake pads at 210,000. Last set was put on at 100,00 miles... original rotors no pulsing.... cant complain at all...
That is basically correct, the Long term Fuel Trim is the amount of fuel in percentage that was added beyond the base fuel Map. So the closer to 0 the closer the car is running to the Base fuel Map, the closer to the fuel mileage the car is capable of. Remember the Long Term Fuel trim PLUS the short term fuel trim is the total fuel trim. You would like to see both as close to 0 as possible. So it seems that the Long term (this value is stored in the ECM) has definitely moved closer to 0. BTW short term fuel trim is not saved when the key is turned off.
Yes it did move closer to zero. But bank 2 is still running leaner (>3%). Will give it some more time and if it still is >3%, then I'll address the injectors.
ELM 327 Bluetooth Adapter for Android with OBD Car Doctor Pro App for 2.99 from play store.
I must also add that I used Techron plus concentrate in my gas tank on my way to Houston. I'm guessing it must have helped in cleaning the injectors leading to a shorter on-time pulse for the injectors which in turn leads to a decrease in LTFT. So, injector cleaning is now off my-to-do-list. Only valves for this spring/summer.
I did have the light come on at around 120,000 for the rear o2 sensor.... Purchased a new one but did a reset and the light never came back on... but I have a replacement ready to go...................
If you have a code reader the better ones have an erase feature to clear the codes. I think that if you disconnect the battery for about ten minutes it will clear the codes also..... but you will have to reset the radio....
So, it has been almost 1000 miles since I changed the two upstream sensors and started using Techron plus concentrate. The LTFT in town between 30-45mph is now: -3.11% and -1.55% for bank 1 and bank 2 respectively. Not bad I would say. But, I'm still not getting close to 3% on freeway speeds between 65-70mph. Going back to Louisiana this weekend. Will post those numbers once I do that trip.
Hi there...
just did the back sensor as well...The car appears to run smoother. Did not have a code but I saw a discrepancy between the sensors. Did some research and it appears that the sensors are losing a bit of their performance in the long run. The from sensor (for cyl 4,5,6) was replaced before and looked new.If I get 1.5 to 2 miles/gal more I am happy. The car is an 03 with 135k. Got the sensor for $80 off eBay (ntk 24302) so I will add my figures here once available.
Latest update: I travelled back to Louisiana from Texas last evening. Temperature was between 60-70F. I got a mileage of 30.3 MPG at the same freeway speeds as before. LTFT was pretty much the same as before. So I'm not happy about LTFT. My car never saw these nice MPG numbers even in summer. So I'm mighty pleased about it. Expecting 33 MPG on freeways in summer. Will keep you all posted.
I think I will address the injectors along with valve adjustment as my next to do things for the high LTFT numbers with the hope that it is not some undetectable vaccum leak somewhere.
Update from 2/12/2014: Drove back to Texas from Louisiana. Ambient temperatures were between 30-40 for the first 200 miles and then in the 50s for the next 55 miles. Returned a mileage of 27.3 MPG. The last time I travelled with ambient temperatures between 40-50, it returned 26.9 MPG. So, I now got a better mileage though the ambient temperature for most part of the journey this time was colder than before. Well, I'm extremely pleased with these numbers.
Update from today: LTFT bank 1: -0.77, LTFT bank 2: 0.00. I'm happy with these numbers. But I'm still going to do the valves this summer. I'm leaving out the fuel injectors cleaning completely.
.4 mpg difference is nothing. 4.0 would be cool, but I doubt you will ever see that big of a difference before the computer tells you the O2 sensor is out of spec. Good luck though, I'm still following.
You will get 33 to 34 during the summer simply due to:
- less accessories being run and electrical demand on the engine, unless you turn on a/c, but that doesn't make that huge of a difference either
- better tire pressure
And I see in your signature that you want 18" rims? That'll decrease your mpg even more by running low profile wide summer tires.
You can never replicate the same condition on 2 different drives to make a true comparison. You can be obsessive about mpg but in the end, just drive normal.
You will get 33 to 34 during the summer simply due to:
- less accessories being run and electrical demand on the engine, unless you turn on a/c, but that doesn't make that huge of a difference either
- better tire pressure
And I see in your signature that you want 18" rims? That'll decrease your mpg even more by running low profile wide summer tires.
You can never replicate the same condition on 2 different drives to make a true comparison. You can be obsessive about mpg but in the end, just drive normal.
Previous 3 years winter MPG on highways: 24-25
Current winter MPG on highways: 26.9-27.3 with one reading of 30.3 when the temperature was 60-70 (my car never saw 30.3 even in mid-summers in all the 3 previous summers)
Previous 3 years summer MPG on highways: 26-28 (temperatures between 80-100)
Current summer MPG on highways: Awaited.
Can't wait for the summer to arrive.
I owe these better numbers to driveaccord.net.
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