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I bought a 2002 honda accord se last June (it replaced my '96 accord, which had 330k+ miles on it and was the reason why I fell in love with hondas). The car had about 67,000 miles on it when I bought it and now its at about 76,000. I get oil changes religiously and the car just passed PA inspection 3 months ago without any problems.

Monday morning the check engine light turned on when I was driving, but I didn't notice anything different while driving the car. I went to autozone (trying to avoid a diagnostic fee from the mechanic) and they pulled 3 codes: P128, P700, P1728

The car hadn't been overheating and I checked the coolant level and realized the P128 must be because the thermostat needs to be replaced.

From what I can tell, P1728 is not a honda code, so I'm not sure why that came up. And P700 is just a general transmission code.

I took the car to a mechanic and they pulled the same first two (P128, P700), but also P1739, which is a 3rd gear clutch pressure switch fault.

He wanted to charge $140 to replace the thermostat, which is stuck open, and $160 to replace the switch and also recommended a transmission flush ($270) and coolant system flush.

I thought these prices were ridiculous and paid the diagnostic fee and left.

I'm trying to figure out what it is that actually made the check engine light go off-- I think it's unlikely that the thermostat got stuck and the switch became faulty at the same time.

Does anyone know how serious the P1739 is? Again, the car is shifting fine when I drive it (I've gone up to 80mph without any problem). The only thing I have noticed in the past is when I come to a complete stop the car will lurch forward the slightest bit--I noticed it when I first got the car and took it back to the dealer and explained what I was feeling. We went for a drive and it wouldn't happen again. I've experienced that lurching when I brake about 4 times total and it's very subtle--almost like the car just paused for a split second in the middle of coming to a complete stop.

I know a lot of people with this car have experienced transmission issues and I'm sadly realizing this car will mostly likely not last as long as my beloved '96 did. But if anyone can provide some insight on my situation, I'd greatly appreciate it.
 

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A p1739 transmission code is not critical and can be ignored. In fact it will not even turn on the CEL by itself, its just stored in the ECM for future info. I wouldnt change the switch unless that code keeps coming back. The slight lurch you describe is fairly common and a couple of transmission drain and fills will likely take care of that (dont do a power flush).

The CEL going off may be the result of the diagnostic check done by the mechanic. They usually clear the codes to see if they were a one time problem of if they return.

Changing the coolant at the same time the thermostat is changed is a good plan.

If you are handy with tools, the cooling system and transmission drain and fills are fairly easy DIY projects. Search if you want more info on those.
 

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P1739 is a a problem in 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch Circuit.

I personally don't like have the CEL on. Honda put it there for a reason.
 

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He wanted to charge $140 to replace the thermostat, which is stuck open, and $160 to replace the switch and also recommended a transmission flush ($270) and coolant system flush.

I thought these prices were ridiculous and paid the diagnostic fee and left.
Hear hear, I hate taking my car to other mechanics, it's always a crap shoot, and mostly just crap.

I'm trying to figure out what it is that actually made the check engine light go off-- I think it's unlikely that the thermostat got stuck and the switch became faulty at the same time.

Does anyone know how serious the P1739 is? Again, the car is shifting fine when I drive it (I've gone up to 80mph without any problem). The only thing I have noticed in the past is when I come to a complete stop the car will lurch forward the slightest bit--I noticed it when I first got the car and took it back to the dealer and explained what I was feeling. We went for a drive and it wouldn't happen again. I've experienced that lurching when I brake about 4 times total and it's very subtle--almost like the car just paused for a split second in the middle of coming to a complete stop.

I know a lot of people with this car have experienced transmission issues and I'm sadly realizing this car will mostly likely not last as long as my beloved '96 did. But if anyone can provide some insight on my situation, I'd greatly appreciate it.
I'm new to this site but not to things mechanical so bear with me.
I have similar issues with my 02 accord. Any electrical problem in my experience can be diagnosed with a multi-meter or a continuity tester. If your 3rd gear clutch pressure switch is bad, you might be able to test it if you can find out how it's wired. If you can get it to actuate under the appropriate current , then it's still good. But if not, then it's bad. I would like to mention though that I could be crazy. You might not be able to get to that pressure switch without diving into the trans, and to test it you may have to remove it, but again, not sure. That's just general electrical troubleshooting.

But I don't think that's your issue, and honestly some check engine lights can be ignored--some manufacturer's wanted to get you to come into the dealer, and so they made a "nag" check engine light which would make you come in at about 90k miles or so, even if everything was working just fine, and that switch that you could manually turn off if you knew what you were doing (I've only seen that on a 90's Suzuki).

My issues are not very similar; it runs really rough when in gear, but idles just fine. Whenever you have a rough-running engine under load, it is most likely a problem with fuel or spark. Since these are both very much so intertwined with modern computer systems, undergoing a thorough analysis of these systems may yield your answers.

And as somebody else said on this forum, don't EVER get a transmission flush, or an anything flush for that matter. It forces any loose particles through the system and causes more damage than you may have previously had. So when you go to Jiffy Lube and they tell you you need a brake flush or transmission flush or coolant flush, tell 'em no, no, no, you'll do it yourself, or something like that. They are usually full of hot garbage and only half-decent mechanics.

And I went through all of this work to write this thing, and I realized that it was started in 2012.............so for whatever it's worth, here ya go.
 

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The P0700 is a generic TCM code, most likely set because of the P1739 code. Here is what I would do. Check you transmission fluid level and color. It should be full and red or pink and not smell burned. If the fluid is brown go ahead and do a 3x change of the transmission fluid with Honda DW1 . If you can change oil you can change transmission fluid on your Accord.

The transmission switches are known failure items and the switch is not expensive and not hard to change either.

The thermostat is easy to change as well, here is a video on how.




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