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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I drive a 2006 Accord V6 EX with just under 157K miles on it now (it was a gift so I honestly can't say what was replaced and when) and recently (roughly 3 weeks ago now) I started my car and was hit with the Engine light, TCS light and the flashing green drive light. I have since ordered and replaced the Transmission Control Solenoid A & B (hopefully these were the right parts to begin with as I was told to order these parts by my mechanic); I currently have Solenoid C coming in the mail. The error code P2770 cleared for a moment but then came back. The car itself drives, the RPMs aren't jumping, in fact it drives normal if you drive it as if it were a standard and start in first gear and move up. If you put the car in drive (from park) it moves but it gains speed slowly (the gears still shift as normal).

I'm writing for four reasons
Reason 1 :: What exactly is going wrong here (maybe I'm missing something)
Reason 2 :: Did I actually order and have the right parts installed so far
Reason 3 :: What exactly does Solenoid C do and will it hopefully rectify the issue at hand
Reason 4 :: If its the wrong part what exactly does the right one look like
 

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I drive a 2006 Accord V6 EX with just under 157K miles on it now (it was a gift so I honestly can't say what was replaced and when) and recently (roughly 3 weeks ago now) I started my car and was hit with the Engine light, TCS light and the flashing green drive light. I have since ordered and replaced the Transmission Control Solenoid A & B (hopefully these were the right parts to begin with as I was told to order these parts by my mechanic); I currently have Solenoid C coming in the mail. The error code P2770 cleared for a moment but then came back. The car itself drives, the RPMs aren't jumping, in fact it drives normal if you drive it as if it were a standard and start in first gear and move up. If you put the car in drive (from park) it moves but it gains speed slowly (the gears still shift as normal).

I'm writing for four reasons
Reason 1 :: What exactly is going wrong here (maybe I'm missing something)
Reason 2 :: Did I actually order and have the right parts installed so far
Reason 3 :: What exactly does Solenoid C do and will it hopefully rectify the issue at hand
Reason 4 :: If its the wrong part what exactly does the right one look like
Could also be the transmission filter in the engine bay has gone into bypass, this site nay help - http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/index.html
 

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07 Accord Sedan EX V6 Auto
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The transmission on the 7th gen V6 is not very good, and has various flaws. Among those, is it's tendency to destroy it's torque converter clutch from overheating and constantly slipping it due to poor valve design. A failure at 157k isn't unheard of. It could also just be a clogged filter.

You said it drives fine. What RPMs does the engine sit at when you're at 65 mph?
 

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04, v6 accord, ¿lx?, BAYA, J30A4
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There are a ton (ok maybe only 13 including the temp sensor) electrical connections all over this beast if it is the BAYA/MAYA (one USA, one Japan assembly) transmission.

There are also lots of different nomenclature of what’s what. Along the inner edge where the transmission mates with engine there are 4 (come in two pairs via the wiring harness) under the intake and some coolant lines that are designated on parts websites as lock up solenoid (front left, 2nd on head up over the tranny) and generic solenoids [partnumber] which ever of the other three there are.

Right under the air box is the “dual linear solenoid A/B” which is a double barrel electrical connection/solenoid with a gasket and some screens that can become clogged, need removed individually, cleaned and either put back or replaced (tubes there as well, clogged either=bad). This also goes by the name clutch pressure control solenoid a b.

Forward (towards the front of the engine bay) and down (towards the center of the earth) is a SINGLE linear solenoid (prolly labeled “C” can’t remember” has screens to clean and a gasket to replace.

Here’s some pics of stuff

Motor vehicle Product Font Automotive exterior Engineering

Circled is the dual Linear A B

if you are flashing the D light right after starting before putting it into gear… I’m puttin my money on speed sensors… there are two, pretty sure they are the same part, they can be a pain to get out in one piece but aren’t pricey.

if the TCS light wasn’t on I wouldn’t have suspected them but if it can’t calculate shaft speed it will cut of traction control.

the bad news is I don’t know how to test em

the good news is you don’t have to ask cause I don’t know!

you already have a fault code but pending how you got it there may be more (transmission specific)

If you bridge terminals ( I think 9 and 4??? Double check online before doing so) on the OBD port (after verifying these are the correct pin connections) with a paperclip and then turning the ignition to the on without starting the D light will flash any stored transmission codes (they’re bunk to understand though but might point you in the right direction).

If your mechanic is AWESOME there are multiple pressure ports which they can connection lines to and measure your pressure and properly diagnose the issue. Buuuuuutt if it’s not a Honda tech (that knows what’s up) they may not be able to getting any usable info out of it.

If this is a new to you vehicle definitely do drain and fills on the transmission by searching this forum.

there are a 3rd and 4th pressure switch down in the left (drivers side) wheel well that fail over time but this doesn’t sound like your issue but could probably


I agree w/ @KW2004Accord to check out that filter (under air box, its a small cartridge style that should have been changed at your mileage but probably wasn’t. Apparently Honda techs are bad about acknowledging even the existence of this part but its there). It cheap, easy to change yourself and can fail catastrophically. The website also suggested is great.

Here is what engine codes has to say about the fault code you gave;


some logical thinking about when you see lights flash and what the code is pointing to may glean some info for you.

At the least after you replace all your switches you have ordered(AND CLEAN THE SCREENS) do some fluid drain and fills, replace the cartridge filter, clean the metal fuzz off the drain plug (you’ll get more fluid out of the temp sensor port but it’s up to you if you want to go that route and also pending how level the vehicle is when you pop it). Top off, run, recheck level, add if needed and see if either you clear the codes they don’t come back or they go away on their own.

if trans rebuild is needed and you have the means (either the tools, time and space or the money to have someone else to do it) it’s an interesting project and the valve body upgrade kits are pretty good.. pricey either way. Regardless a transmission cooler should be added (look on the site there’s a TON of info here) should be installed to protect your investment.

I don’t think you need this though…

filter, drain and fills, properly diagnosing the speed sensors I think will get you rollin again.

Ps drive in d3 till above 38 mph in the future. Also try starting out in 2 and when above ~8-10 mph pop it into d3 then d once above 38mph
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The transmission on the 7th gen V6 is not very good, and has various flaws. Among those, is it's tendency to destroy it's torque converter clutch from overheating and constantly slipping it due to poor valve design. A failure at 157k isn't unheard of. It could also just be a clogged filter.

You said it drives fine. What RPMs does the engine sit at when you're at 65 mph?
I actually haven't checked that I need to a little later today. I just thought it was weird that if you drive it as if it were a manual everything moves fine. Shifts are clean from first to 4th as if nothing is wrong. Just when it goes from park to drive the pick up is a bit slow at first (I'd say maybe after 25-30 it starts moving as normal) and the gears shift like nothing is wrong.

Could also be the transmission filter in the engine bay has gone into bypass, this site nay help - http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/index.html

Thank you I'll have my mechanic look into that

There are a ton (ok maybe only 13 including the temp sensor) electrical connections all over this beast if it is the BAYA/MAYA (one USA, one Japan assembly) transmission.

There are also lots of different nomenclature of what’s what. Along the inner edge where the transmission mates with engine there are 4 (come in two pairs via the wiring harness) under the intake and some coolant lines that are designated on parts websites as lock up solenoid (front left, 2nd on head up over the tranny) and generic solenoids [partnumber] which ever of the other three there are.

Right under the air box is the “dual linear solenoid A/B” which is a double barrel electrical connection/solenoid with a gasket and some screens that can become clogged, need removed individually, cleaned and either put back or replaced (tubes there as well, clogged either=bad). This also goes by the name clutch pressure control solenoid a b.

Forward (towards the front of the engine bay) and down (towards the center of the earth) is a SINGLE linear solenoid (prolly labeled “C” can’t remember” has screens to clean and a gasket to replace.

Here’s some pics of stuff

View attachment 541488
Circled is the dual Linear A B

if you are flashing the D light right after starting before putting it into gear… I’m puttin my money on speed sensors… there are two, pretty sure they are the same part, they can be a pain to get out in one piece but aren’t pricey.

if the TCS light wasn’t on I wouldn’t have suspected them but if it can’t calculate shaft speed it will cut of traction control.

the bad news is I don’t know how to test em

the good news is you don’t have to ask cause I don’t know!

you already have a fault code but pending how you got it there may be more (transmission specific)

If you bridge terminals ( I think 9 and 4??? Double check online before doing so) on the OBD port (after verifying these are the correct pin connections) with a paperclip and then turning the ignition to the on without starting the D light will flash any stored transmission codes (they’re bunk to understand though but might point you in the right direction).

If your mechanic is AWESOME there are multiple pressure ports which they can connection lines to and measure your pressure and properly diagnose the issue. Buuuuuutt if it’s not a Honda tech (that knows what’s up) they may not be able to getting any usable info out of it.

If this is a new to you vehicle definitely do drain and fills on the transmission by searching this forum.

there are a 3rd and 4th pressure switch down in the left (drivers side) wheel well that fail over time but this doesn’t sound like your issue but could probably


I agree w/ @KW2004Accord to check out that filter (under air box, its a small cartridge style that should have been changed at your mileage but probably wasn’t. Apparently Honda techs are bad about acknowledging even the existence of this part but its there). It cheap, easy to change yourself and can fail catastrophically. The website also suggested is great.

Here is what engine codes has to say about the fault code you gave;


some logical thinking about when you see lights flash and what the code is pointing to may glean some info for you.

At the least after you replace all your switches you have ordered(AND CLEAN THE SCREENS) do some fluid drain and fills, replace the cartridge filter, clean the metal fuzz off the drain plug (you’ll get more fluid out of the temp sensor port but it’s up to you if you want to go that route and also pending how level the vehicle is when you pop it). Top off, run, recheck level, add if needed and see if either you clear the codes they don’t come back or they go away on their own.

if trans rebuild is needed and you have the means (either the tools, time and space or the money to have someone else to do it) it’s an interesting project and the valve body upgrade kits are pretty good.. pricey either way. Regardless a transmission cooler should be added (look on the site there’s a TON of info here) should be installed to protect your investment.

I don’t think you need this though…

filter, drain and fills, properly diagnosing the speed sensors I think will get you rollin again.

Ps drive in d3 till above 38 mph in the future. Also try starting out in 2 and when above ~8-10 mph pop it into d3 then d once above 38mph

From what you said (and honestly what I can understand) I actually purchased the Clutch Pressure switch (as when trying to find the other Solenoid (I was told to get the Transmission Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid) and (pictured) is what was coming back in my search so hence why I said maybe I got the wrong part to being with. He did state that the Clutch Pressure wasn't needed and I should return the part (I haven't as of yet) and that my P2770 code was specially stated the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. So after replacing Solenoid A & B (under the pretense that it is now the correct part "Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid") and changing the transmission fluid (all other fluids are good) you can definitely see/feel the difference when change gears or going from D1 to D2 etc. I'm going to suggest checking that other filter and the "Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid" C or according to the Advanced website the ATP AT Control Solenoid arrives replacing that as well. I'm still trying to figure out what exactly this part does.

Product Automotive tire Household hardware Line Tool
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
The transmission on the 7th gen V6 is not very good, and has various flaws. Among those, is it's tendency to destroy it's torque converter clutch from overheating and constantly slipping it due to poor valve design. A failure at 157k isn't unheard of. It could also just be a clogged filter.

You said it drives fine. What RPMs does the engine sit at when you're at 65 mph?
Ok so I drove to work this morning and got a chance to see what happens when the speed goes up some.

Started in D1 0-25 everything is normal RPM hits a max of 2100 before going to D2 and coming back down

D2 25-30ish RPM stays constant around 1800-1900ish (and I could be wrong and I’ll double check this evening)

D3 no changes

D at about 50ish RPMs are at 2500 and sit there maybe drops a little to around 2300

Overall feel to the ride and drive is honestly smoother after changing the two solenoids. (C) came in over the weekend so that will be installed this week. Shifting is a lot smoother too. There’s no hesitation, no huge spikes in RPM (never was) speed is fine. I’ll test it (depending on traffic—I’m in NYC so traffic is the pits) in D4 only on my way home to see how things go.
 

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Ok so I drove to work this morning and got a chance to see what happens when the speed goes up some.

Started in D1 0-25 everything is normal RPM hits a max of 2100 before going to D2 and coming back down

D2 25-30ish RPM stays constant around 1800-1900ish (and I could be wrong and I’ll double check this evening)

D3 no changes

D4 at about 50ish RPMs are at 2500 and sit there maybe drops a little to around 2300

Overall feel to the ride and drive is honestly smoother after changing the two solenoids. (C) came in over the weekend so that will be installed this week. Shifting is a lot smoother too. There’s no hesitation, no huge spikes in RPM (never was) speed is fine. I’ll test it (depending on traffic—I’m in NYC so traffic is the pits) in D4 only on my way home to see how things go.
Wait, D4? The 7th gen Accord has a 5-speed transmission, the gear selector options are D-D3-2-1
 

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04, v6 accord, ¿lx?, BAYA, J30A4
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… did some trans fluid drain and fills as well??

edited; also check on this forum about driving in “d3”. Minimizes the 3/4 engagement and SHOULD help minimize clutch pack slippage/over temp situations. Line pressure on these is pretty low and tolerances are tight
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wait, D4? The 7th gen Accord has a 5-speed transmission, the gear selector options are D-D3-2-1
Ok D sorry

… did some trans fluid drain and fills as well??

edited; also check on this forum about driving in “d3”. Minimizes the 3/4 engagement and SHOULD help minimize clutch pack slippage/over temp situations. Line pressure on these is pretty low and tolerances are tight
I can try the D3 thing and did the fluid change. Going to try to filter to though haven’t gotten to it yet
 
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