[crmplex]

How do you guys like the way they work

Honestly from a performance inthusiast, they suck. The delay is embarrassing, and they offer the driver no lattitude. The trans is too quick to shift for the driver, and wont allow you to aggressivly downshift even when it woulndt cause harm to the car. If ya want a GOOD paddle shifter, you need a dual clutch trans. IMHO

 

[crmplex]

If the VW DSG is so good, why are there so few of them on the road? A Porsche is an expensive sports car and putting up with rough shifting in traffic for lighting fast shifts is a poor trade off in a family sedan or coupe. The paddle shifters in the Accord are designed for more control of the transmission and not intended for performance driving. Last year I rented a Ford Fiesta with a DSG and hated the terrible jerky shifts from normal starts. BTW I along with most drivers don't need or want the launch mode unless I happen to find myself at a traffic light on a drag strip. Street racing is dangerous and illegal. :devil

your right about one thing flyboy. zero performance on this application.

 

[crmplex]

What you are wishing for is an Acura TLX Coupe. I doubt that Honda will put a DCT in the Accord because of the cost and because of the success of the CVT.

Ya know what flyboy? Im sure i speak for many of us when i say that we are all sick and tired of your one trick CVT dog and pony show. Nothing you contribute goes beyond a simple google search with "cvt" typed into the search bar.

The majority of your posts contain merely basic knowledge of the cvt transmission, and the rest of it is followed by controversial, argumentative, and fruitless "mouth diarrhea" regarding your uneducated opinion that CVT's are better than anything else.

We all get it. If Honda's CVT had hole, you would lube it up and make sweet love to it. Talking dirty about its ever changing gear ratios....

Isnt there another web forum for CVT people you can go troll? There isnt a thread about transmissions on DA without you showing up with your trailer full of verbal tricks that we havent all seen before. (i hope you werent towing your trailer with a CVT)

Furthermore, your boring. IF your gonna torture us with your "infinite knowledge" perhaps you should talk about something else that matters to the driver other than the transmission. How about you google a bit about Direct Injection, or telematics, or the the new TPMS systems that are tied into the wireless receivers. SOMETHING DIFFERENT.

Your last effort to most of your lengthy conversations, is saying that you do this "act" to get a rise out of people. Well you can stop, cause you arent even getting a rise out of people anymore. If anyone else feels the way i do, they just roll their eyes when the see that you have a response for us to read.

Believe it or not im doing you and everyone else here a favor. Now please, piss off, and let these guys talk about PADDLE SHIFTERS.

Your welcome DA,

chuck

And one more thing. Im gonna copy/paste this on your next rant. that will make my response to you much easier and save some of my time waisted by your posts. Either way, made myself laugh.

 

[crmplex]

So you're suggesting the valves get bent. But it sounded like HondaBonda actually went through it, and I was wondering what actually happened to his car.

I can't of course speak for this guy, but we have seen many customers come in with bent valves without good reason and their concern is always the same.

"It's not running right. Started it one day, and we have a flashing MIL and it runs like dogsh*t."

We scan the freeze data, And usually it shows misfire failures at 12,000 RPM, and typically has cam sync codes with it. It's called a mechanical over-rev and it's usually between the vehicle speeds that co-enside with a 5-4 shift, but it's an obvious miss-shift to 2nd.

This usually means a "payday" for the tech who gets a cash pay valve job. God I love those.... Interesting and fun work and it pays the mortgage at the same time.

 

[crmplex]

Money Shifter here: It's been about a month (conservatively) since that's happened. Baldeagle hit it spot on. I tried to shift from 5-4 but ended up going into 2nd at around 60-67mph sending rpms past the revlimiter. I panicked and immediately clutched in so the engine was (best case) at around 10k rpms for about 3/4ths of a second. My first post on this forum was about that and many of you suggested that I should get a compression test done. Others stated that the i4 we have can handle almost 12K for a split second and that there's a very small chance I actually created any lasting damage, but to still do a compression test to be on the safe side. Unfortunately, soon after that incident I had to drive 500 miles to the Bay Area. To say that I babied it would be an understatement. It completed the trip (with regular breaks) with no problem, but since then I've had to leave on a business trip out of the country and never got to run a compression test. First thing on my to-do list when I get back though. Meanwhile, I'm working my a$$ off to put myself in a position where I could pay for an engine rebuild :grin

I compression test is an easy procedure and shouldnt run you that much. You could do this yourself easily, but for the cost of the equipment you could just pay somebody to do it. Just an FYI, there should never be more than a 10% difference in compression from the highest compression cyl to the lowest. With bent valves, its gonna show crap numbers right away.

As a honda tech i cant beleive im saying this, but this is my honest opinion. If there is a REPUTABLE place around that does head work, it will be substantially cheaper than a dealer. my labor alone for a job like this would run $1500 easily. then there is parts, and engine parts arent cheap. I always try to sway people towards a dealer stricktly due to the fact that we know your car better then "joe shmoes gas station." But we arent talking a out a major electrical problem or electronics issue that requires factory information or tools. We are talking about mechanical engine parts. there are always shops around that are well known for engine work. Whether they be performance shops or not. at least in my area.

Another option is to remove the head yourself, and then give it to a shop to inspect the head, replace the valves/valve seals, lap the valves, inspect the seats and guides, ect. then you can reinstall yourself once they do the major surgery. just a thought. best of luck.