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It took around an hour or so to do the fix. Honestly, I have tried all those fixes you listed plus more, none of them did it. Max 15-20 mins and it would crash no matter what.

In the meantime, I drove for a total of an hour today with many turns and stops within the city and again, have not had any crash or screen distortion . I will keep testing more but I am becoming positive on this so far. Anybody else is welcomed to try the fix, if not I will keep trying and will be reporting back.
Hey man, any update? I'm using you as my test case! I have to believe what you did helped it. That piece of plastic alone is a joke.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Hey man, any update? I'm using you as my test case! I have to believe what you did helped it. That piece of plastic alone is a joke.
Alright.. here's the update;
I have been using it daily on my commute of 35 miles each way, every weekdays plus all around on the weekends.

So far, I actually have been able to use the Carplay on my car after all these years. I did have a few restarts of the map and freezes but never once a complete unit crash (where the screens go out completely) and I would say this has not occurred more than 5 times all that time probably.

It's a huge improvement for me and did not cost me anything except the cost of the thermal pad which I already had. It greatly improved and made it usable for my daily use but I did have the map app restarting even though quite rarely.

So, is this the fix? Probably not but not sure either because I have been using since the day I created the original post and somehow it keeps going. For instance, I have been driving yesterday and today for hours and not a single issue. Before this fix, it would freeze with my previous phones the first 15 mins no matter what and now I go on for days without any issue. When there is an issue, it is either the navigation app restarting (without locking the unit) or the map screen freezes but a simple touch to go back to Apple CarPlay homepage fixes it. Also, again, this rarely happened so far.

We definitely need more people testing it because I noticed the post where OU08 provided and the result, though the factory pad was reused, was not as good as mine. Thanks OU08 for testing it btw
 
Thanks for the update. Yeah I wanted to test with just the factory pad to compare notes on effectiveness. I’ll purchase a thermal pad too
and start testing. Did you end up installing a passive heat sink on the bottom of the cover plate too? If so which one
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Thanks for the update. Yeah I wanted to test with just the factory pad to compare notes on effectiveness. I’ll purchase a thermal pad too
and start testing. Did you end up installing a passive heat sink on the bottom of the cover plate too? If so which one
I recommend using 2mm pad and only to cover the small chip surface, instead of the entire chip like how they did on the factory pad. Heat needs to be transferred to the heatsink as quickly as possible and just the right size pad will help considering the chip surface is small.

I bought a passive heat sink thinking it would fit but the height you can work with is pretty limited on that side so the headunit did not fit back into the center console unfortunately. Therefore I had to remove the heatsink. I just could not come up with a right sized heatsink to fit in there yet.

My wish would be to use an active heatsink with a fan and use the power output of the stock fan that's already on the headunit (the one in the back) but I doubt I will be doing this..
 
Thanks for the update. Yeah I wanted to test with just the factory pad to compare notes on effectiveness. I’ll purchase a thermal pad too
and start testing. Did you end up installing a passive heat sink on the bottom of the cover plate too? If so which one
Love to hear how a 2mm pad works. I'm at the point I was looking at head units but Crutchfield said nothing will work (odd since it seems like a standard double DIN size). It's infuriating since Honda isn't addressing the issue at all. This is not an issue in my wife's '18 CRV with CarPlay - but if they aren't going to fix it maybe I look at a new brand.

PS - This thread is the reason why I joined this board!
 
I bought a different 2 mm pad and will install later this week. Ill send out an update next week.
Awesome. Can't wait to hear the update. Good luck.

I bought a different 2 mm pad and will install later this week. Ill send out an update next week.
Did you get around to doing this?
 
Yeah I installed the new thermal pad about 3 weeks ago. TBH I haven’t noticed a huge difference. At best it has maybe crashed less. Sorry I was hoping to have good news.
Ah too bad. A couple questions for you. Was the factory pad huge and also covered with a piece of plastic? Also, was your 2mm pad thickness the right size in your opinion? Too bad, man. I was hopeful.
 
Ah too bad. A couple questions for you. Was the factory pad huge and also covered with a piece of plastic? Also, was your 2mm pad thickness the right size in your opinion? Too bad, man. I was hopeful.
Yes the factory pad still had plastic covering on it and it covered the entire circuit board. I installed a 2mm pad just on the chip surface. Yeah the 2mm pad looked to be the right thickness. When I first installed the pad I double checked that it compressed some and it did.
 
Yes the factory pad still had plastic covering on it and it covered the entire circuit board. I installed a 2mm pad just on the chip surface. Yeah the 2mm pad looked to be the right thickness. When I first installed the pad I double checked that it compressed some and it did.
Thanks for the update. I started to lose faith in it being an overheating issue when mine messed up 2 minutes into a drive in 30 degree weather. I'm still going to fix my like you did but I'm no longer expecting it to work.
 
I have started to try to look for patterns when this is happening (since I am now aware this isn't just a "me" thing). Anyone else noticing these? I have a short commute that I normally don't even use CarPlay, so my experience may not be indicative of others.

Also full disclosure - although I am fairly mechanically inclined, I am not an engineer - maybe someone else who is more knowledgeable about such things can chime in.
  • It ONLY seems to be happening when running GPS (Maps/Google Maps/Waze all do the same thing). I have not noticed the issue in other circumstances using CarPlay. I imagine the constant refreshing of the map puts a strain on the graphics processor.
  • It happens pretty regularly while running the front defroster and a map app.
  • When not running the front defroster - the issue seems to occur with less frequency/regularity (but still happens - usually on long trips using the GPS). My side windows are tinted with ceramic tint (decent UV and heat blocking)- but there is no film on the front windshield.
  • Although the display freezes/glitches - the phone screen seems to be trying to use the CarPlay display for Maps (noticed on my iPhone 12). This stands out since iOS 15.1 Maps on CarPlay looks quite different than Maps on the iPhone. When I unlock the iPhone it seems to then revert back to the Maps for iPhone display.
  • Others have noted - I get similar issues using a variety of cables (Apple branded, non-Apple branded, short, long, whatever). I also notice the functionality of the phone is not effected at all, and this is the 3rd phone I've used with it. This leads me to agree the issue is not with the phone itself.
  • My upper display trip computer seems to also crash, often showing no information related to # miles remaining in the tank or any of the fuel economy information (but the instant read milage in the speedometer is not affected on my EX-L). So it seems that CarPlay is the culprit of the "glitch" - but it is not the only system impacted by it.
My hypothesis is that it is an overheating issue related to the load that keeping the display refreshed using any mapping application and poor design of the airflow and HVAC ducting and back of the dashboard (keep in mind this dash was designed long before this display) that prevents the system from dissipating the heat being generated by the GPU. The whole head unit overheats causing several functions in the head unit to "seize" but not completely crash. My wife's '18 CRV has never had this issue and it runs a similar (but not same) Android based UI.

Before I tear into the dash - wondering if anyone can validate some of my assumptions.

Also wondering why there is no replacement recommended by Crutchfield? Is it not a simple double DIN head unit? Like my previous Hondas (a few Civics and CRVs) - I love my Accord, but this issue is beyond frustrating.
 
Mine will also crash with no nav apps but when I'm using a podcast app. I never use the front defroster so I can't answer that one. My wife has a 2021 Mazda CX-5 and I loaded Car Play with the Google Maps app. Her system is able to handle the real-time satellite imaging of Google Maps, not just the transit maps that require less rendering. Try running Google Maps with satellite on our cars and you'll see it can't come close to handling it. I think you said it best, the HU was designed with WAY less system requirements that CarPlay needs.
 
Hello everyone. I joined this group just for this issue. My wife has a '17 EX and I have a theory to add and an issue that also comes up.

My theory is that the newer phones are much faster therefore the head unit cannot keep up which causes the crashes. Here is how I came upon this... My wife has an iPhone 11 running iOS 15, although the issue started before 15, and I have the 8 Plus also on iOS 15.
Whe she uses her phone with Apple/Google Maps, it does crash alot. She drives around the LA area for her job. Plus I know this first hand because we do Uber Eats together in Los Angeles and it helps us get to the customers a bit better than the native Uber maps. When we go somewhere and she drives, her phone is used and she always runs the maps. Whether directions are used or just general mapping, it does crash often. I have also noticed when I am not with her and shes using maps and calls me, the call will lock up and she sounds like a broken record. I have to call her back in 1-2 minutes because in those cases according to her, it reboots both screens and unit.
Now when we go out and I drive, I use my phone. I don't use maps unless necessary. But lately I have been using them to see if we get the same issue with my phone. There is a difference. My phone rarely crashes the system compared to hers. I would say my phone would crash once compared to hers at 3-4 times in about an hour of driving.
These are just my findings using 2 different iPhones. My guess is since her phone is newer, it sends the info faster than my phone thus causing the radio to be overworked and just crashing. Could Apple maybe write a code that can slow down data transmission via CarPlay? Yes but will they? My guess is no. But also Clarion, the OEM radio provider for Honda should have anticipated phones becoming better and faster thus make the unit a bit future proof.

Keep in mind that when she uses Apple Music, Spotify or phone calls without running any of the maps, the unit work fine as intended.

Now for those of you who are asking about aftermarket solutions, there is one for the 9th gen Accord. Unfortunately it's only for the LX and Sport models since they have the 1 screen and that OEM radio is provided by Pioneer. I know this because I work for a Metra Distributor here in LA. My rep has informed me that there are no solutions at the moment for the EX, EX-L and Touring models. It's mainly due to the dual screen, Lane Watch and Honda Sensing. Just to give you an idea, the setup from Metra is the 99-7804B which works for the LX and Sport. If one does come out for the EX and higher, it will be based off this model, but will include a more complex interface and harness to help retain the extra add-ons these trims have.

I may try FreeWoRLD's hack to see if my wife gets an improvement. She even threatened to jack my Alpine from my 4Runner and throw it in her car but she knows she cant so she started doing the next best thing... She takes my runner when she has to do these events and leaves me the accord which I don't mind, just hate the audio since I have a setup in my truck and she's still on stock.

Last thing I just remembered, has anyone called Honda corporate to make a complaint? I have but not sure if it helped any but if more people start calling or blasting them with emails, then maybe something could happen.
 
My theory is the iPhone going to a lower power state that causes it to crash. Setting the screen to never auto lock or turn off and leaving the camera app open seems to be the only thing that stops it from crashing. Also tried updating the firmware with the TSB from 2017, only helped in the sense that when it crashed, it won't take the entire headunit with it and it may recover without restarting the car.
 
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Hello everyone. I joined this group just for this issue. My wife has a '17 EX and I have a theory to add and an issue that also comes up.

My theory is that the newer phones are much faster therefore the head unit cannot keep up which causes the crashes. Here is how I came upon this... My wife has an iPhone 11 running iOS 15, although the issue started before 15, and I have the 8 Plus also on iOS 15.
Whe she uses her phone with Apple/Google Maps, it does crash alot. She drives around the LA area for her job. Plus I know this first hand because we do Uber Eats together in Los Angeles and it helps us get to the customers a bit better than the native Uber maps. When we go somewhere and she drives, her phone is used and she always runs the maps. Whether directions are used or just general mapping, it does crash often. I have also noticed when I am not with her and shes using maps and calls me, the call will lock up and she sounds like a broken record. I have to call her back in 1-2 minutes because in those cases according to her, it reboots both screens and unit.
Now when we go out and I drive, I use my phone. I don't use maps unless necessary. But lately I have been using them to see if we get the same issue with my phone. There is a difference. My phone rarely crashes the system compared to hers. I would say my phone would crash once compared to hers at 3-4 times in about an hour of driving.
These are just my findings using 2 different iPhones. My guess is since her phone is newer, it sends the info faster than my phone thus causing the radio to be overworked and just crashing. Could Apple maybe write a code that can slow down data transmission via CarPlay? Yes but will they? My guess is no. But also Clarion, the OEM radio provider for Honda should have anticipated phones becoming better and faster thus make the unit a bit future proof.

Keep in mind that when she uses Apple Music, Spotify or phone calls without running any of the maps, the unit work fine as intended.

Now for those of you who are asking about aftermarket solutions, there is one for the 9th gen Accord. Unfortunately it's only for the LX and Sport models since they have the 1 screen and that OEM radio is provided by Pioneer. I know this because I work for a Metra Distributor here in LA. My rep has informed me that there are no solutions at the moment for the EX, EX-L and Touring models. It's mainly due to the dual screen, Lane Watch and Honda Sensing. Just to give you an idea, the setup from Metra is the 99-7804B which works for the LX and Sport. If one does come out for the EX and higher, it will be based off this model, but will include a more complex interface and harness to help retain the extra add-ons these trims have.

I may try FreeWoRLD's hack to see if my wife gets an improvement. She even threatened to jack my Alpine from my 4Runner and throw it in her car but she knows she cant so she started doing the next best thing... She takes my runner when she has to do these events and leaves me the accord which I don't mind, just hate the audio since I have a setup in my truck and she's still on stock.

Last thing I just remembered, has anyone called Honda corporate to make a complaint? I have but not sure if it helped any but if more people start calling or blasting them with emails, then maybe something could happen.
Yes - Honda was extremely rude and unprofessional. They cited the owner’s manual, which [in small print] states that they are not responsible for CarPlay malfunctioning [due to their own negligence of not having a way to update the head unit’s firmware like in the next generation]. In summary: a big F U to me and all other owners of the 2017 and sooner Accords . Thanks, Honda !
 
Discussion starter · #37 · (Edited)
Just wanted to give an update on my experience...

Since my last post with the fix, I have been using it every day to work (around 35 miles each way) and honestly it almost works perfectly with my iPhone 13 Pro. This includes highway and city driving with lots of navigation commands. Plus, I listen to music time to time along with navigation.

I remember It freezing during all this past time but I'd say extremely rare. I don't even remember the last time it freezed. At least not the last 2-3 weeks because that's as far back as I can remember. I mean come on, is there any way you could drive 2-3 weeks without a singe crash? I am very positive about this fix. And when it freezed, it was not the whole unit crash but instead, just the screen would freeze. Returning to the main screen of the headunit and going back into "CarPlay" menu would continue the navigation.

## Almost forgot to add...
I also disabled the GPS of the headunit from "Android" menu. So, probably CarPlay does not depend on the GPS of the headunit but instead uses phone's GPS only. Also, disabled "Wifi" and "Bluetooth" of the headunit as you do not need either for CarPlay. The reason I did all these is because I wanted to reduce the load on the CPU of the headunit to prevent overheating. So, my fix includes both hardware and software.

However, I should note that I have tried to turn off these settings in the past but it would still crash the entire unit. So, feel free to try it without the hardware mod but it did not work for me without the hardware (thermal pad) fix.

How to access Android settings:
Push & Hold NAV-BACK-MENU at the same time till new screen appears, then push & hold MENU till next screen appears. Click on "Android Settings" and turn off GPS.
In order to turn off Wifi and Bluetooth, you can use the main menu without needing to go into this developer menu above.
(Let me know if you can't get access to this menu, then I can perhaps record a short video to demonstrate how to do that)


I hope this helps.



One last Interesting fact and it might mean something....
After I disabled GPS feat of the headunit, Waze stopped detecting location. Apple Maps and Google works perfectly but Waze has no GPS now.

Does this mean Waze exclusively uses the GPS system of the vehicle head unit, instead of the iPhone's GPS system? And remember guys.. Waze crashes the unit the most. So, is there any correlation between vehicle's GPS system and CarPlay crashes? Add overheating to this equation.. Idk..
 
Just wanted to give an update on my experience...

Since my last post with the fix, I have been using it every day to work (around 35 miles each way) and honestly it almost works perfectly with my iPhone 13 Pro. This includes highway and city driving with lots of navigation commands. Plus, I listen to music time to time along with navigation.

I remember It freezing during all this past time but I'd say extremely rare. I don't even remember the last time it freezed. At least not the last 2-3 weeks because that's as far back as I can remember. I mean come on, is there any way you could drive 2-3 weeks without a singe crash? I am very positive about this fix. And when it freezed, it was not the whole unit crash but instead, just the screen would freeze. Returning to the main screen of the headunit and going back into "CarPlay" menu would continue the navigation.

## Almost forgot to add...
I also disabled the GPS of the headunit from "Android" menu. So, probably CarPlay does not depend on the GPS of the headunit but instead uses phone's GPS only. Also, disabled "Wifi" and "Bluetooth" of the headunit as you do not need either for CarPlay. The reason I did all these is because I wanted to reduce the load on the CPU of the headunit to prevent overheating. So, my fix includes both hardware and software.

However, I should note that I have tried to turn off these settings in the past but it would still crash the entire unit. So, feel free to try it without the hardware mod but it did not work for me without the hardware (thermal pad) fix.

How to access Android settings:
Push & Hold NAV-BACK-MENU at the same time till new screen appears, then push & hold MENU till next screen appears. Click on "Android Settings" and turn off GPS.
In order to turn off Wifi and Bluetooth, you can use the main menu without needing to go into this developer menu above.
(Let me know if you can't get access to this menu, then I can perhaps record a short video to demonstrate how to do that)


I hope this helps.



One last Interesting fact and it might mean something....
After I disabled GPS feat of the headunit, Waze stopped detecting location. Apple Maps and Google works perfectly but Waze has no GPS now.

Does this mean Waze exclusively uses the GPS system of the vehicle head unit, instead of the iPhone's GPS system? And remember guys.. Waze crashes the unit the most. So, is there any correlation between vehicle's GPS system and CarPlay crashes? Add overheating to this equation.. Idk..
Hi there FreeWoRLD,

Thank you very much to your contributions to this thread and I'm glad that CarPlay is not longer crashing/freezing for you. Can you please give us more detail on turning off GPS in the Android menu. For example, perhaps you can give us foolproof steps on how to do this so that nothing is amiss. In example, does the car need to be in accessory mode or running when holding down the NAV-BACK-MENU? Does the iPhone need to be plugged in? etc...

Thank you kindly!

Rev "Honder" Lovers!
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Hi there FreeWoRLD,

Thank you very much to your contributions to this thread and I'm glad that CarPlay is not longer crashing/freezing for you. Can you please give us more detail on turning off GPS in the Android menu. For example, perhaps you can give us foolproof steps on how to do this so that nothing is amiss. In example, does the car need to be in accessory mode or running when holding down the NAV-BACK-MENU? Does the iPhone need to be plugged in? etc...

Thank you kindly!

Rev "Honder" Lovers!
I will prepare details step by step on how to achieve that as soon as I have the time.
 
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