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I <3 My 6 Speed
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So today I get home from work and in the usual routine I hit my lock button on my key and start walking away, only this time I noticed that my interior lights stayed on and didn't fade out. I walked back over to my car and hit the lock button again and still the lights stayed on. :scratch: Hmmmmm. I hit the unlock button and opened my door and then closed it again thinking maybe the door didn't shut all the way the first time. Well it wasn't that because once again the interior lights stayed on when I hit the lock button. I noticed that the door lock stems were not down as far as usual. In fact they barely moved when I hit the lock or unlock button inside the car, although they did move slightly, just not enough to lock and shut off the interior light.

I can manually lock/unlock the doors with the key in the drivers door key hole or by manually pushing the door lock stem down on either driver or passenger side door. All other electical seems fine and when I push the drivers side lock stem down the passenger side goes down as well. I checked fuse for the power locks in the interior fuse panel and it's totally fine. The driving lights and interior lights flash like they should when I hit the lock/unlock button on the key but again the locks are barely moving/working.

Does this sound like it's a power door lock actuator gone bad? If so how difficult is it to replace? I looked online and I can get it from a local Honda dealer for $38 and change, so not too expensive. I've never had a reason to take the door panel off so it'll be new for me (for this car anyway). Any pointers, opinions or help would be greatly appreiciated! For what it's worth it's a 2003 V6 Coupe 6spd.
 

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Super Moderator
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Have you tried manually unlock BOTH drover AND passenger doors and then use the remote to lock the doors?

If only the passenger lock goes down then you likely have a problem with just the driver side actuator, but if neither go down then perhaps it's time to change the battery in the remote consider your car is 5 or so years old.

Alternatively you can also try use the lock/unlock switch (not the lock stem itself) on the door panel to see if the lock mechanism works properly, if it does then again it points to the battery in the remote.
 

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I <3 My 6 Speed
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick response, Aviography.

I should have been more clear with my description. When I said I hit the lock/unlock button inside the car, what I meant is the lock/unlock button on the door panel. So in other words the locks don't lock with the remote lock button or the door panel lock button.

I'm pretty sure the remote battery is fine because the remote trunk button pops the trunk open fine and it activates the flashing indicator lights, it just seems the stems aren't moving up or down enough to lock or unlock the door unless I use the key in the key hole or manually push or pull the stems.

I just researched a Acura TL forum and it seems lots of people have had similar issues and it seems to be the actuator, that's why I suspect its that, but I'm not 100%.
 

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Well then, you've narrowed it down pretty much to just the driver side, now you have to take the panel off to see if there is anything binding the mechanism, or if any part of the mechnism has popped off where it was suppose to be, and if there is voltage to the actuator connector, if there isn't any binding and 12 volts is getting to the connector then you can be 99.99% certain it's the actuator.
 

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I <3 My 6 Speed
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well then, you've narrowed it down pretty much to just the driver side, now you have to take the panel off to see if there is anything binding the mechanism, or if any part of the mechnism has popped off where it was suppose to be, and if there is voltage to the actuator connector, if there isn't any binding and 12 volts is getting to the connector then you can be 99.99% certain it's the actuator.
Yeah, I figured it was probably the actuator just from past threads I've read about the door locks not working, but I've also read about a loose or broken connection, so I guess the only way to find out is taking the door panel off. Any tips on not busting clips removing the door panel?

Anyone know if there's an actuator in both the driver's side and passenger's side door or only in the driver's side on a coupe?
 

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its a fuse that is in your panel on the drivers side...this happened to my 98' accord.. charged me like $25 to replace it at a dealership...had no clue back then..lol but if it was now i would probably do it..

too bad i dont have that accord no more.. BUT i got my new sexy onE!! lol

good luck with your problem
 

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I <3 My 6 Speed
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
its a fuse that is in your panel on the drivers side...this happened to my 98' accord.. charged me like $25 to replace it at a dealership...had no clue back then..lol but if it was now i would probably do it..

too bad i dont have that accord no more.. BUT i got my new sexy onE!! lol

good luck with your problem
Already checked the fuse. It's not blown. Even switched it with another 20 just to be sure and still nothing.

Funny thing is this morning they work. I guess it's something that's going to be an on going work or not work issue until I get the time to get the door panel off to test the actuator.
 

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Yeah, I figured it was probably the actuator just from past threads I've read about the door locks not working, but I've also read about a loose or broken connection, so I guess the only way to find out is taking the door panel off. Any tips on not busting clips removing the door panel?
The door clips are petty easy to pop out by pulling on the door panel. Make sure you remove the door screws (one in the inner handle under the rubber pad) before you start yanking on it. Pull up the microfiche on majestic for the coupe and see if there are other screws, etc.
 

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I <3 My 6 Speed
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
^ Thanks!
 

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Same thing on my 04 accord. I can press lock and see the stem just barely try and go down for first try. But most the time now nothing. No noise or anything. Remote or Physical button inside the car.

Just been locking it manually with keyhole.

Accordian - How is it going with this? cheap easy fix?
 

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The same thing happened to me, for a week my remote wouldn't lock my car or unlock them. After a week it started working again....good timing since the day the locks started working someone tried breaking into my car with me in it.
 

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Same issue

Sounds like I have the same problem. The plunger on the drivers side will not work electronically at all. The remote and the switch will unlock the passenger side only. I cannot lock/unlock the drivers door unless I use the key.

My drivers side window switch is becoming erratic in behavior also. Sometimes it just doesn't wanna work, but will work after a few seconds of it failing... any thoughts?

Thanks, Trevor
 

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Striking-A-Chord
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558 Posts
I am having the same issue

The remote battery is fine....when I try to lock and unlock from the door panel both my driver side and passenger side locks do not work.

I hear a faint "click" but nothing happens

If its the acutator can it affect both doors?

Anyone know if there's an actuator in both the driver's side and passenger's side door or only in the driver's side on a coupe?
I have the same question


I do not understand how both locks stopped working simutaneously
 

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There are separate actuators in both doors. If both locks stopped working at the same time, it is likely something else.
 

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2016 Nissan Maxima Platnm
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Anyone know if there's an actuator in both the driver's side and passenger's side door or only in the driver's side on a coupe?
There is an actuator in both the driver door and passenger door. There is a part number listed for each side. It can be possible for both to go out at the same time, since they would be aging at the same rate. Usually the driver side would go out first since that is used more often.

I just replaced my driver side actuator in my coupe last month. It is not that hard to do, and it would save you a ton of labor cost from a dealer. I thought about replacing the passenger side at the same time, so at least both would be new, but I haven't yet.

Here is the odd part, the power window on the driver side now goes up and down faster than when it did with the dying actuator. I know both systems are connected since you can roll down the windows by unlocking the doors. So I wonder if a slow moving window can be a sign of a dying lock actuator. My passenger window is exhibiting that problem and the car is 6 years old.
 

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Hey guys,

I just joined this forum and bought my 2003 Coupe V6-AT about 2 months ago. Both my looks were working perfectly fine until about a month ago, until they both started working slower and eventually stopped working. Mechanic who changed my timing belt said it was the actuator. Trunk button still works

I haven't gotten around to testing nor buying the new actuators, as I was gonna spend a good day this fall tearing my door apart to fix it. I've gotten quite used to manually opening the door for myself and passengers. lol. Anyways the driver side door lock actually worked for a full day yesterday..?! And then like before, started losing its power and eventually died (again).

Any ideas? I'm thoroughly baffled as to where to begin to troubleshoot this.

thanks

Anyone? thanks
 

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I <3 My 6 Speed
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sounds just like what happened to mine. I'm 99% sure it's the drivers side actuator, I just haven't found the time to fix mine yet. I've gotten pretty used to manually unlocking the door, too lol!
 

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2016 Nissan Maxima Platnm
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Hey guys,

I just joined this forum and bought my 2003 Coupe V6-AT about 2 months ago. Both my looks were working perfectly fine until about a month ago, until they both started working slower and eventually stopped working. Mechanic who changed my timing belt said it was the actuator. Trunk button still works

I haven't gotten around to testing nor buying the new actuators, as I was gonna spend a good day this fall tearing my door apart to fix it. I've gotten quite used to manually opening the door for myself and passengers. lol. Anyways the driver side door lock actually worked for a full day yesterday..?! And then like before, started losing its power and eventually died (again).

Any ideas? I'm thoroughly baffled as to where to begin to troubleshoot this.

thanks
Don't bother troubleshooting. Replace the actuators and your problem is solved. Mine did the same thing. New actuator is time consuming, but can be done on your own saving you labor costs. Instructions are in the forums.
 

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Don't bother troubleshooting. Replace the actuators and your problem is solved. Mine did the same thing. New actuator is time consuming, but can be done on your own saving you labor costs. Instructions are in the forums.
thanks. I'm not looking forward to taking apart both doors, but its definitely worth it to have keyless again
 

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Hello, my wife has the 2003 Accord Ex 4 door and I believe is having this same actuator problem. All the other actuators seem to work but since they are tied to the driver's actuator they all don't work. For example if all doors are locked and I try to unlock driver door nothing happens, even if i press unlock twice. But if using my hand I unlock the driver door or using the key directly and then press unlock all the other doors unlock (press = keyless or button on door panel).

So I'm assuming the actuator is dead. Now here's my question. I took the door panel off and on the actual door side there is plastic sheeting with an adhesive seal.
1. Is the actuator behind the plastic sheeting??
2. How do I remove the plastic sheeting? Do I cut it or use a hair dryer to soften the adhesive?
3. Do I need to disconnect the battery to switch out the actuator or can I just pull the power door lock fuse out??

I'm a moderate DIY especially when something will require a lot of labor hours from the stealership service shop.

Thanks for any help or advice.
 
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