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Discussion Starter #1
PS pump is leaking on 2004 EXL Accord 4cyl with 192,000 miles. PS pump is original. I replaced O-ring about 6 month ago on a lower hose. Today I heard noise from PS again and PS fluid was on a lower setting. I just added PS fluid again and planning to go to Honda dealership to buy both O-rings (on high pressure hose and one that was replaced before).

Attached are pics of the PS pump. Looks there is quite a bit of oil on it? Would you recommend to replace PS pump and high pressure hose considering the mileage or should I just replace O-rings, try to clean pump a bit to see if it's leaking again?
I'm not sure how to diagnose if PS pump needs to be replaced.
 

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Hey bro,

I had the same issue ok my accord. All you have to do is replace the o rings. Use 10m to take the hose off from the pump and then pick the old ring out and put the new one in. (lube the new o ring with PS fluid and then insert). Also make sure that both hoses are attached fully to the resvior and the pump. After replacing the o rings, turn the car on and turn the steering wheel lock to lock to remove the air from the system.
 

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Have you ever fully changed the fluid or gotten a flush done ? Ever used a different kind of fluid ? Sometimes the hoses can split on the ends, may want to first try replacing both hoses with new O rings & clamps after doing a flush. Prestone Honda/Acura fluid would be OK for the flush ($2.50 ea. @ Walmart). I am on my orig. PS pump @ 509K, I get a flush done every 30K though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Vtecsalwan & KW2004Accord, Thank you!

The PS fluid flush done at 77k & 165k miles w/Honda PS fluid.

I bought O-rings today, but not yet changed them. I think I misdiagnosed the noise when turning the wheel.
It looks like, the tie rod end rubber? is not in good shape. I'm attaching pics from front left and right sides.
Is this what's called tie rod end bushings?
 

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.... I think I misdiagnosed the noise when turning the wheel.
It looks like, the tie rod end rubber? is not in good shape. I'm attaching pics from front left and right sides.
Is this what's called tie rod end bushings?
That is the front shock absorber bushing (strut bushing) on the lower control arm (1 of 3 bushings in it). If this bushing is busted, the compliance bushing probably is busted too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
visionguru, thank you!

both front control arms were replaced back in 2014 when the car had 151k miles. i bought moog brand and indie mechanic installed them for $200.
 

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That's the bushing that the front shock absorber's lower fork goes through, and it looks like your mechanic installed the new arm with new bushings but did not pre-load the suspension or wait until the car is on the ground to torque down the bolts. This causes that bushing to twist once you lower the car onto the ground. The bushing just twists itself to death and breaks shortly after. The proper way to torque down that specific bolt, is to leave that bolt loosely tightened, then have the front end on jack stands, jack up the suspension by the lower ball joint until the car is about to lift off, that's when you torque the bolts down. OR, you lower the car onto the ground then shimmy a torque wrench with an extension down there then torque down the bolt.

Regarding the power steering pump, it looks like it's still leaking and you need to replace the large o-ring that seals the body of the pump. To do this, you need to remove lower low and high pressure hoses, remove pump off the mounting bracket, then open up the body of the pump and replace the o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok. Would you recommend buying the new control arms? If yes, what brand? The installed Moog (part #s RK640289 & 290) had a 3 year life-time limited warranty that inconveniently expired 2 month ago.
I'm still not sure about the noise when turning the steering wheel left or right. Does it come from the leaking PS pump or because of broken front shock bushings?

I checked JohnNH's pdf on how to disassemble PS pump (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/15-7th-generation/158281-power-steering-pump-rebuild.html) - it looks a bit complex to me :) with possibilities not installing it back correctly, besides there are few O-rings there. The large O-ring that you mentioned is part # 91349-PNC-J01 Seal, Pump Cover ?
 

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I followed that write up on the rebuild and it worked perfect first try. Been bone dry since
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a problem unscrewing (counter clockwise) pressure control valve (see step #2 in JohnNH's Power Steering Rebuild pdf file). Pictures attached.

I'm using 10mm hex, but the damn thing doesn't unscrew. I also tried to 'extend' this 10mm hex with, but still no luck. I didn't go to gym for six month, but last time bench press was 215lb.

Help! :)
 

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Oof. finally got it off with another combination of extension & allen key
I have a cheap electric impact and it's surprising how easy things like that plug come off when the torque is impact rather than gradual. Probably could've held the pump body by hand and the impact have spun it out.

Keep up the thread with pics. Thanks.
 

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I have a cheap electric impact and it's surprising how easy things like that plug come off when the torque is impact rather than gradual. Probably could've held the pump body by hand and the impact have spun it out.

Keep up the thread with pics. Thanks.
I was thinking the same thing. My cheap HF impact saves me plenty of frustration. Only reservation would be the fact that you're using an impact on an allen fitting. That could end badly.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What would you guys recommend to clean PS pump properly?

I already spent like half an hour cleaning PS pump using the carb cleaner and brush, but not much progress.
Don't expect it to shine, but at least be seen as cleaning was attempted.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I hope that helps :)

and now to live updates:

to clean PS pump use Purple Power (PP) - it works. $4.29 at Autozone. also, bought CRC's Brakleen just in case. since it's a spray & more poisonous, PP was an easy choice. now these look more or less clean.

regarding instructions from JohnNH & youtube video: i think you don't need to mark pump vanes. the outside is painted yellow - see picture.
 

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Drew03Accord
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