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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pricing out my setup and reviewing all the info in preparation for my system install. Am I missing anything? I'm not dead set on the 12W7 as similar SPL and SQ can be had for cheaper.

Polk Audio DB6501 - $127.60
Polk Audio DB651s - $64.99
Sound-Ordnance-M-4100 - $129
JL Audio 12W7 and box - $1099.95
JL 1000/1 amp - $749.99
Audio control LC2i - $78 (Is the LC7i for $50 more necessary?)
Speaker Mounting Brackets - $11.99
Amp kit - $94.95
Speaker Wire - $14.83
RCA cables - $6.60 per pair
Big 3 upgrade kit - $49.99
Fatmat sound deadener
- $54.99

2013 Accord Aftermarket audio install links:

Door panel removal

Rear tray removal
Wiring Diagram

Sound Deadening Doors

Rear Deck Rattle Fix
ANC disable
OEM Factory Tweeter mount part #'s
Wiring harness, dash kit, speaker harnesses
RTA info
trevordj's stereo project
LOC install
 

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Honestly...

That sub and box is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY overpriced. Don't get me wrong, the w7 is a great sub. Did very well on the Klippel and I've had them in my car before. Loved them, but I paid less than half that for a pair of them (albeit used, but if it's taken care of properly then it doesn't really matter).

I would HIGHLY suggest you looking into relegating your funds in a different manor. According to your break down you're looking at spending roughly $2,500. In my opinion, and take this however you'd like but I'm just being honest and trying to help, that's a pretty horrible lineup of gear for that amount of money. Besides the sub, which I'll get to, everything is bad to mediocre AT BEST. Again, I'm not trying to be mean or call you an idiot or whatever....just trying to help because if I think you might be happier with another route with which you get a lot better quality then I'm going to tell you.

Speakers: Why rears? What's your goal....to get as loud as possible or have sound coming from all directions or what? Have you heard a properly set up car with JUST a front stage setup (or rears that are run through DSP)? Not only can you add the rear speaker costs to the front to get a lot better speaker, you can cut installing time/cost and most people will agree that it sounds much more 'correct' to put it vaguely. Obviously it's up to you, but it will be PLENTY loud. You don't need a lot to get extremely loud in a car...a few watts will usually get you to a normal/fairly loud range.

Sub: I assume you like your music run hot through the bass right? Maybe you listen to electronic, rap, etc with a lot of content down there, but I'd suggest looking elsewhere or if you're really wanting the JL w7 for some reason...then the used market. If you just want to be heard....you can get much louder for cheaper. If you're looking for sound quality...you can do it better with another combo including DSP on the sub vs. no DSP. Huge need for this in car environment. You're putting 44% of your budget into something that covers 0.003% of the audible spectrum (20-20kHz...even lower if you want to do 0-20kHz or higher).

Amp(s): With your budget and not knowing your goals it's hard to say here...but you 'could' be better off with a single 5-6-7 channel...depending on your goals/wants/needs.

* I though I would add that I have a distribution block that can run multiple amps just sitting in my garage. I actually have another that's a 1in-2out (2awg or 4awg I can't remember) that I don't need either. The big one is this (
). Shoot me a PM if you want it

Amp Kit: Looks way too pricey, but I usually buy blocks and wiring separate so not sure there

Wire/RCA: Monoprice....good job! lol. Good stuff there. Used both of those. 12awg is overkill for your speakers so if you want to get 14awg and get 100' that'd be better. Definitely don't want to run out. More wire is always helpful

Deadening: Highly suggest putting more of your budget towards this also. Install is one of the most important factors. I can shed more light on this, what you'll need, etc if you'd like.




* For $2,500 you should be able to do a nice 2-way front and single/dual sub setup with 1 or multiple amps and DSP. There's a reason why most run DSP..
 

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Mod it or don't drive it
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm with you. I'm still undecided on front stage only or not. On the JL stuff, those prices are new but I can get them for much lower used. For example:

JL 450/4 can be had for $250-$300 used

I figure I can run 150w x 2 rms to the fronts and 75x2 to the rears, (gains turned down lol) with room to upgrade in the future if needed.

JL 1000/1 for $350-$400
10w7 for $300 or less and the pro wedge box for $90
I mean a 10w7 eats up a 1000/1, let alone a 12w7

I'm not dead set on the pro wedge box, as I may just have a local guy build a custom box to better fit the trunk.

Yes, I am paying a premium for the name, and I know that better subs and amps can be had for less money that perform the same, but JL has never let me down in the past. The amps are under rated for their power, they are clean, and they run cooloer than many other amps at the same. I also like the 1.5-4 ohm flexiblity.

Instead of the polk components, I'll problably go with Image Dynamics, CDT, Alpine, or JL instead.

Any recommendations on better material for sound deadening for the doors and trunk?

I'm also considering the jbl ms-8
 

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Here's what I have done so far to a brand new 2014 with only 100 miles..lol I have looked for help but this car is pretty new and most guys have not touched it from what I have seen. I am also a JL freak. I know I can find things cheaper but I prefer to stick to JL Audio as they have not let me down and trust me I have tried a boat load of stuff in my cars :).

The first thing I did was make a custom harness form 3 Metra harnesses to RCA's for the Matrix plus LD.

1. Image Dynamic Chameleons in the doors.
2. Dynamatted the front doors
3. Made a custom metal amp rack for the rear trunk
4. Dynamatted the rear panel
5. Image Dynmiac CTX65CS in the rear
6. Audison Bit One
7. 2 JL HD 900/5's. One for Left and one for right :)
8. 2 JL 10W6V3's for Bass
9. Ran knuconceptz 0 Gauge from front to rear of trunk



Obviously I have more amps than I need but I do not plan on sticking with the same setup long. I am looking at the Hertz 3 ways or more choices in the future.

Here is the amp rack I am talking about:

 

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Mod it or don't drive it
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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The Chameleon's fit without having to cut the door? CXS62's?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

Yes you have to cut into the door but it is minor. Here is a pic.





YOu also have to cut the rear of the panel




The speaker on the door:




The speaker on the drivers side door:



Stock Speaker VS ID Chameleon 64V2. Holly smokes the stock speaker looks Wimpy..lol



ID Tweeter in stock sail panel



Here is the custom harness I made. Basically remove my stock radio plug the harness in between the radio and factory wiring and bam RCA's :)

 

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^ How are you planning on mounting that amp rack?
Easily. Under the rear deck. Let me finish dynamatting the rear and take a pic of the rack in place.
 

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Mod it or don't drive it
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice pics! Are your doors still off? If so can you measure the diameter of the speaker hole horizontal where it's not cut and also the depth and report the measurements here?
 

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I'm with you. I'm still undecided on front stage only or not. On the JL stuff, those prices are new but I can get them for much lower used. For example:

JL 450/4 can be had for $250-$300 used

I figure I can run 150w x 2 rms to the fronts and 75x2 to the rears, (gains turned down lol) with room to upgrade in the future if needed.

Remember, gains are not volume knobs. It should be match to the input voltage and left alone :thmsup:

JL 1000/1 for $350-$400
10w7 for $300 or less and the pro wedge box for $90
I mean a 10w7 eats up a 1000/1, let alone a 12w7

I'm not dead set on the pro wedge box, as I may just have a local guy build a custom box to better fit the trunk.
Yes

Yes, I am paying a premium for the name, and I know that better subs and amps can be had for less money that perform the same, but JL has never let me down in the past. The amps are under rated for their power, they are clean, and they run cooloer than many other amps at the same. I also like the 1.5-4 ohm flexiblity.
JL is a solid company! They get a lot of bad noise online from people that haven't ran them, don't have the money to run them or are just looking for drama. I've ran PLENTY of JL gear from subs, amps, c5's, heard the zr's in a buddies car, etc. Great stuff for the most part

Instead of the polk components, I'll problably go with Image Dynamics, CDT, Alpine, or JL instead.
ID is great. Ran their cxs 2ohm and q450.4...and the IDmax, IDq, etc. Loved it. Not sure how much has changed post-Eric Stevens era, but I'm sure it's still close to the same. A lot of good sets out there. Their XS is great also

Any recommendations on better material for sound deadening for the doors and trunk?
SDS cld tiles and MLV (ccf if you'd like). Same for Second Skin. I can't remember what other companies out there aren't asphalt based (fatmat, stinger roadkill, etc). I think Stinger might be a good one.

I'm also considering the jbl ms-8
The ms-8 is great for those that don't have SPL meters, REW and mic, etc etc. Those that don't know what they're doing when it comes to tuning. You can destroy your sound and your speakers quite easily by not knowing what you're doing. The MS-8 does a VERY good job with time alignment, staging and EQ for what it costs. I was very very happy with mine when I got the hang of how to properly run it. It has some quirks of course, but there's plenty of coverage on them at DIYMA.


Here's what I have done so far to a brand new 2014 with only 100 miles..lol I have looked for help but this car is pretty new and most guys have not touched it from what I have seen. I am also a JL freak. I know I can find things cheaper but I prefer to stick to JL Audio as they have not let me down and trust me I have tried a boat load of stuff in my cars :).

Maybe it's out there...maybe it's not. Figure I'll ask anyways lol. Do you know what the pre-amp FL and FR wire colors are? Not sure what trim your Accord is, but I'd assume pre-amp colors would be the same for each model in regards to audio.

The first thing I did was make a custom harness form 3 Metra harnesses to RCA's for the Matrix plus LD.

1. Image Dynamic Chameleons in the doors.
2. Dynamatted the front doors
3. Made a custom metal amp rack for the rear trunk
4. Dynamatted the rear panel
5. Image Dynmiac CTX65CS in the rear
6. Audison Bit One
7. 2 JL HD 900/5's. One for Left and one for right :)
8. 2 JL 10W6V3's for Bass
9. Ran knuconceptz 0 Gauge from front to rear of trunk



Obviously I have more amps than I need but I do not plan on sticking with the same setup long. I am looking at the Hertz 3 ways or more choices in the future.

Here is the amp rack I am talking about:



Nice setup! Nice to see when people put time in and do it correctly (deadening, dsp, etc)
 

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The ms-8 is great for those that don't have SPL meters, REW and mic, etc etc. Those that don't know what they're doing when it comes to tuning. You can destroy your sound and your speakers quite easily by not knowing what you're doing. The MS-8 does a VERY good job with time alignment, staging and EQ for what it costs. I was very very happy with mine when I got the hang of how to properly run it. It has some quirks of course, but there's plenty of coverage on them at DIYMA.






Nice setup! Nice to see when people put time in and do it correctly (deadening, dsp, etc)


Yes I have pictures of the connector behind the radio and know every pin. I could not find this info anywhere and I took a lot of pics and documented it for others.
 

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Nice pics! Are your doors still off? If so can you measure the diameter of the speaker hole horizontal where it's not cut and also the depth and report the measurements here?
I put the doors back on and put Dynamat on so I cannot measure it anymore. I would have to take the Dynamat off to measure as you need.

I made a MDF ring from the stock speaker dimensions. So if we can fit a ID Chameleon 6.5 you can fit any 6.5" component mid as this thing has a big magnet :).


So looking at the specs the ID 6.5" mid is 3" top mounting depth. Please keep in mind this is the Extreme speaker you can fit in the Accord without major modifications. The window to the magnet is super tight.
 

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with the lc2 since you are running rear speakers will not fade like the LC7i will since it has F&R inputs . I agree with the above post and only run fronts but take some more of your budget and get some better 6.5's for up front and make sure you seal up the doors very well.
 

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I put the doors back on and put Dynamat on so I cannot measure it anymore. I would have to take the Dynamat off to measure as you need.

I made a MDF ring from the stock speaker dimensions. So if we can fit a ID Chameleon 6.5 you can fit any 6.5" component mid as this thing has a big magnet :).


So looking at the specs the ID 6.5" mid is 3" top mounting depth. Please keep in mind this is the Extreme speaker you can fit in the Accord without major modifications. The window to the magnet is super tight.
Did you use 1" or 3/4" MDF spacer?

I had to do the same thing in my TL. Cut the door and trim the plastic off the door card. Dremel works GREAT for this job.
 

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Did you use 1" or 3/4" MDF spacer?

I had to do the same thing in my TL. Cut the door and trim the plastic off the door card. Dremel works GREAT for this job.
I used 3/4". I actually cut it super easy with a new blade but the dremel will work :).
 

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Pricing out my setup and reviewing all the info in preparation for my system install. Am I missing anything? I'm not dead set on the 12W7 as similar SPL and SQ can be had for cheaper.

Polk Audio DB6501 - $127.60
Polk Audio DB651s - $64.99
Sound-Ordnance-M-4100 - $129
JL Audio 12W7 and box - $1099.95
JL 1000/1 amp - $749.99
Audio control LC2i - $78 (Is the LC7i for $50 more necessary?)
Speaker Mounting Brackets - $11.99
Amp kit - $94.95
Speaker Wire - $14.83
RCA cables - $6.60 per pair
Big 3 upgrade kit - $49.99

Ha I just noticed you want a 12W7. I have 2 like new for sale. Let me know if interested in one of them.
 

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Yes you have to cut into the door but it is minor. Here is a pic.





YOu also have to cut the rear of the panel




The speaker on the door:




The speaker on the drivers side door:



Stock Speaker VS ID Chameleon 64V2. Holly smokes the stock speaker looks Wimpy..lol



ID Tweeter in stock sail panel



Here is the custom harness I made. Basically remove my stock radio plug the harness in between the radio and factory wiring and bam RCA's :)

What are the P/N's of the wire harness's used? Do you have a schematic to wire it up? Thanks!
 

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What are the P/N's of the wire harness's used? Do you have a schematic to wire it up? Thanks!


1 of these:


2 of these:

 

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Thanks very much for the part info! Did you wire the RCA's into the speaker out's, while leaving them connected to the aftermarket harness?
Yes correct.

To the OP my apologies for flooding your thread. I just wanted to post pics of what I have done since I could not find any solid information in swapping my system.
 
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