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2013 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know the size of the nut on the primary o2 sensor?

For my downpipe install I did not have an o2 sensor socket so I cut the wires, then on reinstall I twisted and taped them. It ran fine with now CEL. I took my downpipe off and reverted everything back to stock and I am now getting a check engine light. Does anyone know if cutting the wires and wrapping them can make an O2 sensor read differently? I can't understand why I was fine and now am having trouble. I have reset the ECU multiple which works fine on the first drive, but as soon as I start my car up for the second time it throws the CEL.
 

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Elvira
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3,437 Posts
yes simply twisting wires can cause resistance problems.

didn't the replacement come with crimp butt connectors to make the new connection?

If not, get some or temporarily solder them with lead free solder (higher temp then Sn/Pb 60/40 solder)

the resistance may be enough to cause an increase in circuit resistance.

Is this an OEM O2? Ive read here that they seem to work MUCH better than generics.

just realized you left the original o2 in, is that correct?

Miker
 

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2013 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes this is the factory o2 sensor. Will butt splice connectors change resistance?
 

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The size is 7/8 or 22mm and for the connections I would either solder the connections and use a waterproof heat shrink tubing from these guys http://www.ttproducts.com/heatshrink-tubing.html and be sure the connections are far enough from the exhaust pipe. Your other option is to use a waterproof connector like this one from Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Kit-4-Pin-Way-Waterproof-Electrical-Wire-Connector-Plug-/360569830263 and you still have the same heat source issue.

Another option is waterproof butt connections here is a link for those http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...10001&storeId=11151&productId=35701&langId=-1

But twisting the wires together and taping them is not going to work, as water will work its way in and the twisted connections will become high resistance as well as intermittent.

An O2 sensor socket is not that expensive at Northern Tool or Harbor Freight.
 

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Elvira
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Yes this is the factory o2 sensor. Will butt splice connectors change resistance?
Not if it is crimped with the proper pressure and tooling.

thanks for link to connector greg.:thmsup:

Miker
 

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2013 Sport
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201 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
CEL P0141 Bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit bank.



Anyone?
 

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Elvira
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The OBDII code P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2) The O2 sensor After the catalytic convertor on bank 1.

As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. If the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0141

A code P0141 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
•open or short to ground in the wiring harness to the O2 sensor
•O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
•O2 heater element resistance is high
•Internal short or open in the heater element

Check the wiring first before replacing the O2 sensor.
 

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2013 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So this error code is actually being thrown by the after cat sensor under the car?
 

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So this error code is actually being thrown by the after cat sensor under the car?
Yes the P0141 code refers to Bank 1 (if you have a 4 cyl that is the only bank of cylinders, if you have a V-6 Bank 1 is cylinders 1-3 and Bank 2 is cylinders 4-6) Sensor 2 which is the sensor AFTER the Catalytic Converter (sensor 1 is in front of the Catalytic converter).
 

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2013 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I'm relieved that it's not the sensor I had to chop up. Bad thing is why is that sensor malfunctioning if I didn't do anything to it.
 

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Elvira
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So this error code is actually being thrown by the after cat sensor under the car?
Are the two connectors keyed differently?

Would it be possible to switch the front to back O2 and get an incorrect reading?:dunno:

Miker
 

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So it is the heater on the O2 sensor that is not working. The ECU for the car is what controls the heater turns on, there is a fuse that protects the heater, but I do not know which fuse it is, using a test light in all the fuse panels you could test all of them fairly quickly.

The ECU merely grounds the other the negative side to turn on the heater. Checking for power at the O2 sensor would tell you if that fuse is blown or not, I am not sure the color of the wires, but there should be 4 wires

+ Heater
- Heater (going to the ECU)
Signal
12V

In some cars yes, but not on the 2013 Accord. I just looked at mine, and the one before the CAT is right at the top of the Exhaust in the engine bay and the second one is Mid Car and appears to have white, Gray, Black and Black as the wire color. I suspect the fuse is blown, but in looking in the manual there is no fuse listed for the O2 sensor heaters.

You could buy a new A/F sensor (for the one that got cut up) and take in to the dealer and let them fix it


Part # for that sensor is 36531-5A2-A01, I see a used one on Ebay for $100 or you can buy a new one online for $129.66, plus $8 for an O2 Socket.
 

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2013 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yea I'm really trying not to buy that sensor at all cost.
 

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As I said I suspect you have a blown fuse that happened while you were wiring up the front A/V sensor as the power is applied to the heater circuit all the time, I would look in the fuse panel under the hood first and test all fuses, it would take about 5 minutes with a test light. I suspect it is fuse 7 listed as FI Sub. It is also possible the fuse is in the fuse panel on the drivers side as well. To test with a test light is easy, ground your test light and test each side of the fuse no light on one side indicates a blown fuse.
 

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2013 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Alright cool. I really appreciate the help and research!
 

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The correct fuse is #13 in the fuse panel on the drivers side and it is labeled ACG, that was too hard to figure out!
 

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2013 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Alright I'll check it tomorrow. I can't say enough how much I appreciate the research.


On a side note, if sensor 1 is reading wrong, then is it possible to have a false error on sensor 2? Or is this heater code totally irreverent to the the o2 readings?
 

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The reason there is a heater circuit built in to an O2 sensor an oxygen sensor must be hot (about 600 to 650 degrees) before it will generate a voltage signal To bring that sensor online quicker there is a heater in it.
The hot exhaust from the engine will provide enough heat to bring an O2 sensor up to operating temperature, but it may take several minutes depending on ambient temperature, engine load and speed. During this time, the fuel feedback control system remains in “open loop” and does not use the O2 sensor signal to adjust the fuel mixture. This typically results in a rich fuel mixture, wasted fuel and higher emissions.

The heater error comes from the ECM, what happens is the ECM notices that no data is coming from the O2 sensor once the engine is up to temperature (as measured by coolant temp) it then sets a P0141 error for the second sensor and a P0131 on the first. The reason why the first sensor is not recording an error is it is located closer to the engine and normally does not require a heater to get up to temperature. The second sensor is much further down the exhaust and is slower to heat up.
 
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