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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was having intermittent problems with my starter. In warm weather it worked fine. When it got colder, it would act like a slow crank and not turn over. Then I would keep trying to start it and after about three tries it would crank over like a champ and start.

Then it wouldn't start at all. I smacked the starter a couple times and it started. Finally, it had enough. Wouldn't work even after smacking it. OK so I figured the starter went.

Replaced the starter with an OEM reman unit. The battery is less than a year old.

When I go to crank the car over, absolutely nothing happens.

I don't know where to start. I replaced this thing this morning in the snow and was hoping for no issues. Please help!

Thanks
 

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Elvira
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I was having intermittent problems with my starter. In warm weather it worked fine. When it got colder, it would act like a slow crank and not turn over. Then I would keep trying to start it and after about three tries it would crank over like a champ and start.

Then it wouldn't start at all. I smacked the starter a couple times and it started. Finally, it had enough. Wouldn't work even after smacking it. OK so I figured the starter went.

Replaced the starter with an OEM reman unit. The battery is less than a year old.
When I go to crank the car over, absolutely nothing happens.

I don't know where to start. I replaced this thing this morning in the snow and was hoping for no issues. Please help!

Thanks
But that was a year of battling a bad starter which could have overworked the battery. Add to that what Jimjam mentioned about a bad ground connection.

Miker
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The battery is good. I Have an I4 Accord but I upgraded to a V6 battery and bought a new OEM V6 negative cable to ground. Terminals also look good.

I'll double check the battery voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Voltage is reading 11.75V

I checked voltage going to the starter itself and at the starter it reads the same as at the battery.

I checked to see if it was the ignition switch but that seems OK since the warning lights come on in "II" position.

Any other thoughts?
 

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The battery is good.
How do you know? 11.75V is too low. Should read between 12.4 and 12.7 volts. Lower means your battery needs to be charged, or is bad. If the car is running at idle, should be between 13.5 - 14.5V

It would cost you nothing to have it tested where you bought it. I swapped out my GF's faulty Advance battery which was less than a year old and having the symptoms you describe. Have your alternator checked too, as it might not be charging the battery properly.

Forgot to add... her battery was replaced for free.
 

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BRWNFLSH now
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If the car does absolutely nothing, when you turn the key, it could be the shift position safety switch. If moving the shifter around (into neutral, or just giggling) helps, it's a prime suspect.
 

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11.75 is not a fully charged battery, there are 6 cells in a 12 volt battery full charge is 2.1 volts per cell so 12.6 volts is fully charged. Hopefully you have a battery charger and can fully charge the battery. No one can test the battery until it is fully charged.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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mobiless2
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Have you swapped the starter relay with the rear defroster relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How do you know? 11.75V is too low. Should read between 12.4 and 12.7 volts. Lower means your battery needs to be charged, or is bad. If the car is running at idle, should be between 13.5 - 14.5V

It would cost you nothing to have it tested where you bought it. I swapped out my GF's faulty Advance battery which was less than a year old and having the symptoms you describe. Have your alternator checked too, as it might not be charging the battery properly.

Forgot to add... her battery was replaced for free.
The battery has been sitting for the last week and a half in sub-30* weather. I can get the battery charged and see if it is in fact, good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
11.75 is not a fully charged battery, there are 6 cells in a 12 volt battery full charge is 2.1 volts per cell so 12.6 volts is fully charged. Hopefully you have a battery charger and can fully charge the battery. No one can test the battery until it is fully charged.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

I have access to one I just need to pull the battery.
 

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Had the same problem right after I did the V6 battery upgrade, thought it was a defective battery so I exchanged it under warranty, next day car wouldn't start period. Change the starter, now it starts fine but it squeaks. Sounds like a bad belt but its coming from the starter though. Also when its cold it takes longer to start then it should, not sure if that's normal though.
 

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mobiless2
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You need to find the main relay and see if you are getting voltage to that first. I recently watched a clip that diagnosed a similar problem like this. And it was due to the soldering points on the main relay going bad.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It was the same as last night's reading. When I hooked up my fully charged jumper pack (Jump n Carry 660) the battery voltage read 12.15. So that was the max reading so far.

I should probably get my battery fully charged before I try and diagnose anything else? Or go the lazy way out and just return it and get a new one :)
 

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I don't think battery is your problem. I have started a car with as low as 10.5V on my old 98 V6 Accord because the alternator was dying. 11.75 is more than plenty. Your charge isn't going to be between 12.4 and 12.7V after you leave the car cold overnight.

Is it cranking or do you hear silence?
 
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