Drive Accord Honda Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

· HardCoreHondaLover
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a leak due to a failed valve cover (VC) gasket and ordered a VC gasket set/kit. All the parts came in and when I laid out the VC gasket, I noticed one side would not lie flat (and can't physically lie flat because of how it was formed/molded).

I emailed BK Honda and sent pics as well. They replied back that "It will not be an issue as it is rubber and it will seal properly." I'm not buying that explanation. Now, I haven't taken the valve cover off yet, so maybe it's shaped oddly and this is just how the gasket is supposed to look. Can anyone tell me if this is how this gasket is supposed to be shaped? In the pics below, you can clearly see one end lies flat, while the other "bows up".


Rectangle Automotive exterior Dishware Serveware Cable

Bag Eyewear Rectangle Wire Luggage and bags



Twig Cable Wood Wire Event
 

· HardCoreHondaLover
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Disregard. I see now why it is that way. Here's a pic from a video showing the underside of the valve cover. You can see one end has a dip that the gasket must be pressed into. This is why one end doesn't lie flat. If it did, it wouldn't fit the valve cover properly.

And if I had flipped the gasket over, I would have see that arch in the gasket:

Cable Automotive exterior Wire Event Auto part


Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Metal
 

· Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
As long as OEM and correct one for your VIN / Vehicle. It only fits one way and you have to fit the gasket perfectly. Do a mock test by turning it over and be sure it stays in position. You don't want it to fall out when going over the plug tube seals. Do the plug tube seals while you're at it! When taking old seals out, make sure you put cloth or rag between pry tool when leveraging. You don't want any damage or indentations to cover.

Double check instructions and torque diagram. Good Luck.
 

· Registered
Home of the 309k 2012 V6 Honda Crosstour
Joined
·
606 Posts
I agree with the above statement. It will fit if the correct part number. Valve covers are not always flat all the way around. I’d not do this job without replacing the spark plug tube seals and grommets on the bolts. Old tube seals will very likely leak.
 

· HardCoreHondaLover
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All good points. Thanks for the tips/feedback. I bought the valve cover set, so it comes with the spark plug tube seals and the grommets on top. I also about a seal puller and will use cloth as suggested. I saw a really good video with the guy showing four key spots where he used Permatex Ultra Red gasket seal. That's what I plan on using. If anyone is interested, here's the video that does a great job of explaining everything involved in replacing the valve cover gasket, seals and grommets:


Andy
 

· Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
FWIW. After I hand torqued cover back on, I gave it a minute or so to let the sealant begin curing. I inspected everything one last time before I did the final tightening for final cure process. Hope that makes sense. I used hand tools and put just a few beads around half moon.

Not sure what actual cure times are either, but I felt more comfortable giving it time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 0dyfamily

· HardCoreHondaLover
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
@midnight witch: What's the advantage of Honda bond over Permatex Ultra Red? Just to be clear, I'm using a standard OEM gasket and just applying the Permatex material in four spots (as shown in the video). I'm not using it all around the cover to create a gasket.

@frogvtech Is hand tightening good enough? A few posts said the torque should be 7.2 ft lbs (but another said 8.7 ft.lbs.). I don't really want to by a Haynes subscription just for the torque spec. I plan on pulling the power steering hose (that just passes over the edge of the cover) to make it easier to get off and on. I plan on just hand tightening the screws for the hose (and maybe using blue loctite to make sure they don't easily work their way out).

I found the following tightening sequence, but to me, it seems like it would be better to flip 4 and 6:

Tightening sequence:

-----------[2]-------------[6]--------------

--[4]---

-------[3]---------[1]----------[5]----------
 

· Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
I wouldn't recommend using power tools on the tightening part, but if you're comfortable with it, then do so.

FWIW & IMHO, I hand tightened first, then used hand tools to tighten a bit more before snugging it to spec / feel. You're essentially doing the sequence 3 times - at least that's how I did it. I didn't have a torque wrench, so didn't use one. Just don't over tighten anything!

Honda Bond the half moons and not the entire thing. Be meticulous and even. lol The guy in the video rubbed it like it was some kind of ointment. lol. I think you'll see the original gray seal in the same area too.

Try search and google the sequence and repair manual, this is a very common repair.
 

· HardCoreHondaLover
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Definitely not using power tools. I've seen videos of people using power tools to tighten the bolts on the valve covers and I just cringe, waiting for them to strip out the bolt. lol

What you suggest is what I was leaning towards doing. I have a small torque wrench, but I think for these it's better to do it by feel.

Why do I need to put the Honda Bond in that entire half moon? I don't recall the guy putting anything but 4 small dabs of the red Permatex on the "engine block" where the valve cover sits, and that seemed to be primarily because he was trying to make sure the "seal" where two pieces of engine that are bonded together didn't leak (at least that was my take on it). Take a look at that video starting at timestamp 7:45. I think what you're referring to is the dielectric grease that he used quite a bit on the seals and the tubes that plugged into the spark plugs.
 

· HardCoreHondaLover
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for confirming. 👍
 
  • Like
Reactions: frogvtec

· Fellow V6 Aficionado following the WiiMaster
Pair of 8th Gen Sedans - V6 & I4
Joined
·
306 Posts
I don't recall the guy putting anything but 4 small dabs of the red Permatex on the "engine block" where the valve cover sits, and that seemed to be primarily because he was trying to make sure the "seal" where two pieces of engine that are bonded together didn't leak (at least that was my take on it).
Just did this job not too long ago. Your "take on it" is very correct.

OF
 

· HardCoreHondaLover
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just did this job not too long ago. Your "take on it" is very correct.

OF
Thanks for confirming. Di you pull the power steering hose to make getting the valve cover off and on easier? I think in my case that's going to be the best option.
 

· Fellow V6 Aficionado following the WiiMaster
Pair of 8th Gen Sedans - V6 & I4
Joined
·
306 Posts
As in "pull the power steering hose," do you mean disconnect it from the pump? No, I did not do that. It definitely is tight, lifting that valve cover.

That was on an 8th Gen Accord, but looking at the 7th Gen in my driveway right now, it's the same setup. Unhook that power steering hose mount at the corner of the valve cover, and push the hose to one side to allow you to vertically lift the valve cover straight up.

OF
 

· HardCoreHondaLover
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's correct. I meant disconnecting it from the power steering pump. I did see the other bolt in the corner, so I'll catch that one too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 0dyfamily
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top