I have spent countless of hours lurking this forum since purchasing my 2014 Honda Accord LX a little under a year ago. The information on here has been priceless as I contemplate my SQ audio upgrade. The lessons learned have been particularly valuable. I am not an audiophile and struggle with articulating what I am looking for in an audio system. All I know is that the stock audio system in my Accord sounds “flat”. I am looking for a “fuller” sound without being “boomy”, something well tuned that reproduces sound as it was intended to be heard. This description is very generic, I know.
I listen to a wide range of music that is typically streamed on Pandora. My Pandora stations span from EDM to hip-hop to easy listening and classical depending on my mood.
I was hoping to just swap out speakers and call it a day. After reading this forum, this plan has progressed to adding an amplifier to now adding an amplifier and a sub woofer. My build will include the following.
JL Audio XD700/5 *updated from XD600/6
JL Audio HD-RLC
Polk Audio MM6501
Unknown Shallow Mount Subwoofer with Sealed Box
Metra 71-1729 Radio Harness (x2)
Metra 70-1729 Radio Wiring Harness (x1)
Stinger RKX36B Roadkill Expert Series Sound Damping Material (purchased)
Scosche SAHC634 Speaker Adapter
KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Guage Amp Installation Kit
KnuKonceptz Ultimate Positive and Negative Battery Terminal with OEM Top Post Adapter
AmazaonBasics 16 Gauge Speaker Wire – 100 Feet
Split Loom (Unknown Size)
KINGLAKE Portable 4 pcs Auto Car Radio Door Clip Panel Trim Dash Audio Removal Installer Pry Tool
I have listed everything I plan on purchasing. If I am missing something or if there are suggestions, please let me know. It will be greatly appreciated. I am a newb at audio upgrades. My experience includes an HU swap a few years back on a VW Rabbit and that is it.
The plan is to use Metra radio harnesses to avoid cutting factory lines. The extra 71-1729 radio harness will be used to replace missing wires. I will run speaker level outputs directly to the XD700/5 that will be mounted to the underside of the rear deck. FL will feed CH1/CH2, RL/RR will feed CH3/CH4, and FR will feed SUB CH. CH1/CH2 will power the tweeters, CH3/CH4 will power the mid bass, and SUB CH will power the sub bass. I will run new speaker wires and abandon stock speaker wires in place. The rear speakers will be removed to facilitate sound movement from the subwoofer in the trunk to the cabin.
I had plan on going the PPI P900.4 and LC7i route but decided to pay a little bit more to get the XD700/5 for its brand name/reputation and for the ability to run my tweeters with an active crossover. Another reason was to simplify the installation (no need for an LOC and a pair of crossovers). I decided on the MM6501 from the endorsement it received. The only negative I’ve read on the MM6501 was that the tweeters were a bit “bright”. I plan on mitigating this, if necessary, with the gain control on the XD700/5.
Questions I have on the installation are as follows.
1. I plan on using a 5-channel amp that will be supplied by only 4 channels. Will my plan, as stated above, work? Are there suggestions on improving it? The reason I am planning on using a 5-channel amp is to have active crossover for my tweeters.
2. The fit, or should I instead say the lack of fit, of the Scosche SAHC634 has been well documented. Is there a better set of speaker adapter out there? I rather not dremmel my doors. [Answered]
3. I have read discussions on the need to seal the mid bass with the speaker grill in the trim. The seal is broken due to the shape of the stock speaker mounts and its single screw up top. I am not sure why a seal is required between the mid bass and the speaker grill in the trim. Is the seal that is required due to an opening that exists with the door (i.e., an opening with the sheet metal and not the plastic)? [Answered]
4. I plan on purchasing a shallow mount sub woofer in a sealed box. How would one go about mounting a shallow sub woofer box in the trunk? I plan on having it stand against the back seat, which lends itself to toppling. By the way, the sub woofer is where I plan on scrimping.
5. I could not find discussions on the size of the split loom others are using. I assume they are either 3/8 inches or 1/2 inches in diameter. I plan on using the split loom for the 4 gauge wire that supplies the amp and the eight speaker wires that run from the HU to the amp and from the amp to the speakers in the front doors. I am curious what fits better beneath the trims, two 3/8 inches or a single1/2 inch (this assumes all eight speaker wires will not fit in a single 3/8 inch loom; power and speaker wire will run along different sides of the car)?
6. There is a “nav-back-menu buttons” approach to disable ANC. Why are people still disabling ANC physically? [Answered]
I apologize if any of the above questions have been addressed/discussed. I tried my best to look for the answers before posting my first post. Wish me luck on my install! Thank you!
I listen to a wide range of music that is typically streamed on Pandora. My Pandora stations span from EDM to hip-hop to easy listening and classical depending on my mood.
I was hoping to just swap out speakers and call it a day. After reading this forum, this plan has progressed to adding an amplifier to now adding an amplifier and a sub woofer. My build will include the following.
JL Audio XD700/5 *updated from XD600/6
JL Audio HD-RLC
Polk Audio MM6501
Unknown Shallow Mount Subwoofer with Sealed Box
Metra 71-1729 Radio Harness (x2)
Metra 70-1729 Radio Wiring Harness (x1)
Stinger RKX36B Roadkill Expert Series Sound Damping Material (purchased)
Scosche SAHC634 Speaker Adapter
KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Guage Amp Installation Kit
KnuKonceptz Ultimate Positive and Negative Battery Terminal with OEM Top Post Adapter
AmazaonBasics 16 Gauge Speaker Wire – 100 Feet
Split Loom (Unknown Size)
KINGLAKE Portable 4 pcs Auto Car Radio Door Clip Panel Trim Dash Audio Removal Installer Pry Tool
I have listed everything I plan on purchasing. If I am missing something or if there are suggestions, please let me know. It will be greatly appreciated. I am a newb at audio upgrades. My experience includes an HU swap a few years back on a VW Rabbit and that is it.
The plan is to use Metra radio harnesses to avoid cutting factory lines. The extra 71-1729 radio harness will be used to replace missing wires. I will run speaker level outputs directly to the XD700/5 that will be mounted to the underside of the rear deck. FL will feed CH1/CH2, RL/RR will feed CH3/CH4, and FR will feed SUB CH. CH1/CH2 will power the tweeters, CH3/CH4 will power the mid bass, and SUB CH will power the sub bass. I will run new speaker wires and abandon stock speaker wires in place. The rear speakers will be removed to facilitate sound movement from the subwoofer in the trunk to the cabin.
I had plan on going the PPI P900.4 and LC7i route but decided to pay a little bit more to get the XD700/5 for its brand name/reputation and for the ability to run my tweeters with an active crossover. Another reason was to simplify the installation (no need for an LOC and a pair of crossovers). I decided on the MM6501 from the endorsement it received. The only negative I’ve read on the MM6501 was that the tweeters were a bit “bright”. I plan on mitigating this, if necessary, with the gain control on the XD700/5.
Questions I have on the installation are as follows.
1. I plan on using a 5-channel amp that will be supplied by only 4 channels. Will my plan, as stated above, work? Are there suggestions on improving it? The reason I am planning on using a 5-channel amp is to have active crossover for my tweeters.
2. The fit, or should I instead say the lack of fit, of the Scosche SAHC634 has been well documented. Is there a better set of speaker adapter out there? I rather not dremmel my doors. [Answered]
3. I have read discussions on the need to seal the mid bass with the speaker grill in the trim. The seal is broken due to the shape of the stock speaker mounts and its single screw up top. I am not sure why a seal is required between the mid bass and the speaker grill in the trim. Is the seal that is required due to an opening that exists with the door (i.e., an opening with the sheet metal and not the plastic)? [Answered]
4. I plan on purchasing a shallow mount sub woofer in a sealed box. How would one go about mounting a shallow sub woofer box in the trunk? I plan on having it stand against the back seat, which lends itself to toppling. By the way, the sub woofer is where I plan on scrimping.
5. I could not find discussions on the size of the split loom others are using. I assume they are either 3/8 inches or 1/2 inches in diameter. I plan on using the split loom for the 4 gauge wire that supplies the amp and the eight speaker wires that run from the HU to the amp and from the amp to the speakers in the front doors. I am curious what fits better beneath the trims, two 3/8 inches or a single1/2 inch (this assumes all eight speaker wires will not fit in a single 3/8 inch loom; power and speaker wire will run along different sides of the car)?
6. There is a “nav-back-menu buttons” approach to disable ANC. Why are people still disabling ANC physically? [Answered]
I apologize if any of the above questions have been addressed/discussed. I tried my best to look for the answers before posting my first post. Wish me luck on my install! Thank you!