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Discussion Starter #1
I've made a few posts preparing for my upcoming purchase of a 2010 Accord Coupe 6/6 and I have one more question for now: rear brake pads. The mechanic said the car has about 15-20% left on the back and should be replaced sooner-rather-than-later. With the amount of downshifting I tend to do while braking in a stick, I think that should last me at least ~5k miles (about half a year for me) -- would you agree?

As a first time car owner, I've bought the Hayne's manual and am preparing to save money on maintenance where I can. That being said, I am already starting to look at brake pads and watch a couple videos (looks quite simple). Now it comes down to the question, when the time comes, should I go OEM or aftermarket? From what I have read, Hawk's Performance Ceramic would be my choice for aftermarket (HB626Z.577) and the price ends up being essentially the same after shipping of OEM (43022-TA0-A80).

Any opinions? Will one last longer? Will one be more reliable? Will one treat the rotor better than the other? Sounds like Hawk has a lifetime warranty compared to Honda's 1yr warranty -- but I would imagine 99% of brake pad replacement falls under normal use anyways, right?
 

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Hawk makes good break pads. I've never used there ceramic pads before but any ceramic pad will probably be very rotor friendly simply because of the composition. They should last a while again because they are ceramic. A few parts houses like autozone have what they call "lifetime" pads. Buy them once and when they wear out you can go pick up new ones so that's cool. Hawks lifetime warranty is against defects not wear and tear. Brakes are a "wear" item after all. Hope that's helps and good luck. Btw rear brake pad swap is a cake walk, but you should probably have your rotors resurfaced as well. Make sure to bed them in properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea, the rear brake pads seemed really easy. I'm excited to get my hands dirty doing this and the oil change towards the end of the year (oil is about 2.5k miles old and I'm expecting 5k miles for the last half of the year).

I'll see if I can find a lifetime pad, that would be nice. If the car only has 49k miles on it, would you still recommend resurfacing the rotor when replacing my pads?
 

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I have ebc redstuff pads on my front and love them, low dust good bite. I just put the ebc yellow stuff pad on the front of my Tacoma and love those too but they are a race pad and my wheels get dirty just going around the block Lol.
I honestly don't think you will feel a difference in the back with the pads you've chosen, up front is another story.
When you do your oil change don't put the pan right under the drain put it about 6feet behind the drain because as soon as you remove the drain it will short about that far back Lol.
 

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HK Moderator
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Yea, the rear brake pads seemed really easy. I'm excited to get my hands dirty doing this and the oil change towards the end of the year (oil is about 2.5k miles old and I'm expecting 5k miles for the last half of the year).

I'll see if I can find a lifetime pad, that would be nice. If the car only has 49k miles on it, would you still recommend resurfacing the rotor when replacing my pads?
Sam: I would not "cut" or re-surface the rotors unless you have serious vibration issues that you can't get rid of by burning off the excess brake pad material stuck to them. That is what most call "warped" rotors- but rotors rarely warp. It is brake pad material infused onto hot rotors because the rotors got hot and you stayed on the brake pedal for a couple of minutes.

Lifetime stuff: 7th Gen member 'Drew03Accord" is a huge fan of Advance Auto/Pep Boys/Autozone/NAPA lifetime warranty stuff. He saves the receipts (or enters his name and account into their system) and never pays for rotors or pads. Such a deal. If you do your own brakes and don't autocross- it is a heck of a deal.

Once you start doing your own brakes- you will never go back. Watch "Eric the Car Guy" videos on YouTube- don't follow the hundreds of idiots who have no idea what they are doing.



I have ebc redstuff pads on my front and love them, low dust good bite. I just put the ebc yellow stuff pad on the front of my Tacoma and love those too but they are a race pad and my wheels get dirty just going around the block Lol.
And that is the question: What are your needs, what kind of driving do you do, and what is important to you? For some, brake dust is no big deal- for others- it is the kiss of death.

I have a childhood friend who lives in Huntington Beach (and a gal I recently started dating is from Westminster). They are serious "car culture" people. Can't have brake dust on their wheels, OMG!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sam: I would not "cut" or re-surface the rotors unless you have serious vibration issues that you can't get rid of by burning off the excess brake pad material stuck to them. That is what most call "warped" rotors- but rotors rarely warp. It is brake pad material infused onto hot rotors because the rotors got hot and you stayed on the brake pedal for a couple of minutes.

Lifetime stuff: 7th Gen member 'Drew03Accord" is a huge fan of Advance Auto/Pep Boys/Autozone/NAPA lifetime warranty stuff. He saves the receipts (or enters his name and account into their system) and never pays for rotors or pads. Such a deal. If you do your own brakes and don't autocross- it is a heck of a deal.

Once you start doing your own brakes- you will never go back. Watch "Eric the Car Guy" videos on YouTube- don't follow the hundreds of idiots who have no idea what they are doing.
What's the difference between cutting and burning the rotor? I probably would have a mechanic do either one of those, since I doubt I have the tools. Also, I only test drove the car for a couple miles highway/city, but didn't feel any warping in any of the brakes.

I'll look into the lifetime warranties at local auto shops, does sound like an awesome deal. I've watched 2-3 videos on Youtube and I just checked -- one of the rear brake pad replacements I watched was by Eric the Car Guy :)
 

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RacerRik
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I suggest you don't do anything to the rotors unless the brakes have a problem with pulsing due to warped rotors. And I also suggest you go with OEM pads on the rear if you have OEM pads on the front. If you mix pad compounds front vs rear you will get less than ideal brake balance which results in longer stopping distances.
 

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Rear brakes don't matter. Put whatever you want on there.
 

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RacerRik
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Rear brakes don't matter. Put whatever you want on there.
Sorry but you could not be more wrong with that statement. Because of ABS, rear brakes are now as important as the front brakes to achieve minimum stopping distance. If the rears start to lock up, the ABS dumps brake pressure and your braking distance gets drastically longer.
 

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That's my rear rotor with 10k on it. You can still see the rotor grinding marks. That's how little the rear brakes are used. So...put whatever on there because they're unimportant compared to the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I guess I will just go with OEM then, unless I find a good lifetime replacement plan at an Autozone (or equivalent). Thanks all, I'll be posting pictures when I get my car!
 

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What's the difference between cutting and burning the rotor? I probably would have a mechanic do either one of those, since I doubt I have the tools. Also, I only test drove the car for a couple miles highway/city, but didn't feel any warping in any of the brakes.
I suggest you don't do anything to the rotors unless the brakes have a problem with pulsing due to warped rotors.
You do NOT have warped rotors. As stated about 1,000 times on this forum, it takes a lot to warp a rotor, and you did not do it.

read post #5:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/170-wheels-suspension-brakes/189410-new-front-brakes-again.html

Don't cut your rotors. Don't let a mechanic do it either.
 

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I tried aftermarket pads and rotors on an old Hyundai and a Civic. In my case, I had nothing but issues with aftermarket parts, but results may vary. I've learned my lesson, OEM all the way.
 

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Just installed Pro Stop Platinum pads this morning on my 8th gen accord. Both rear pads. Took 1 hour with a 10min break between and that also includes cleaning the caliper and tire... Super easy.
 
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