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562_EXL_V6

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
-2 Minute- rear deck rattle FIX, no tools or equipment.

No equipment necessary, save for two socks :D

In the trunk, there are two oval openings directly beneath the rear deck. If you reach inside, you can actually move the rear deck inside the car.

Inside the oval, towards the back of the car, there is a metal lip that the rear deck rests on. Emphasis on the word "Rest", as it is not secured with anything. My hypothesis is that this is what rattles with excessive bass (The movement of the rear deck against the metal lip).

Simply take a sock (A clean one! :tongue:) and wedge it in between the rear deck and the metal lip. Place one sock inside each oval opening. I just tested this with my subwoofer on max, volume 25, DSP flat ON, and had ZERO deck rattle!

The hardest part is reaching the lip inside the oval if you have medium to large hands. Credit to my wife for making this happen :)
 
Great idea! I just did the DSP change the other day and the first thing I noticed was the rear deck rattling with the sub turned up. I turned down the sub to almost nothing. Will definitely have to give this a shot. Thanks for saving me some time this weekend because I was going to go on the hunt for just such a fix :D
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Great idea! I just did the DSP change the other day and the first thing I noticed was the rear deck rattling with the sub turned up. I turned down the sub to almost nothing. Will definitely have to give this a shot. Thanks for saving me some time this weekend because I was going to go on the hunt for just such a fix :D
If you look around a little on this forum you will find a detailed guide on how to remove the rear deck. It takes a long time (removal & reinstall), and you have to remove quite a few components of your car.

My only modification to what I did would be to use something a little more meant for the job, like foam insulation.
 
I replaced my mouse pad today. Do you think a recycled mouse pad would be thick enough to do the trick?
 
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A friend of mine in 1976 bought a new ford econline van and found pieces of a styrofoam coffee cup shoved into the overhead supports ...right from the factory...lol. True story
 
If you look around a little on this forum you will find a detailed guide on how to remove the rear deck. It takes a long time (removal & reinstall), and you have to remove quite a few components of your car.

My only modification to what I did would be to use something a little more meant for the job, like foam insulation.
I've taken the rear shelf off quite a few times now redoing my speakers and tweaking the rattles that you will get from a true subwoofer pounding. I've got to the point I can remove it within 2 minutes. Hint: no need to remove the rear seat, you just need to remove the side bolsters which is secured with one bolt that can be reached by lifting the seat up (use a ratchet with a long extension). Get a trim tool so you can remove the clips attaching the shelf to the backside of the trunk frame without any pain. Rear quarter panel snaps off in seconds. Then make sure you unplug the center brake light plug and voila, just start popping that shelf off slowly. Much easier than removing the door panel...

Putting it back in is much more of a pain though, since you want to ensure each clip snaps in to prevent rattles. Aligning the shelf back in perfectly is what you need to do else the clips wont snap in and you could bust them. Would recommend buying a pack of replacement clips, which are the same type used for doors if you plan to do panel removal on those (speakers, mass loaded vinyl installs). Comes in handy for insurance and cheap anyway.

Note this is the sedan I have. I imagine the coupe is a nightmare with a lot less rear space to maneuver and the lack of doors makes it even harder. The sedan has so much rear room it's just truly amazing how they packaged that up within the accord's dimensions.
 
the coupe is very much annoying when trying to replace the rear deck. i broke a clip trying to get it to line back up. socks dont work on the coupe either since the ovals are in different locations and arent easy to get to like the sedan from what ive tried.
 
just tested this out and it's legit!

however, I did notice that the opening on the left compared to the right was significantly harder than the right one. I had to use three fingers opposed to using one when on the right side as the opennings didnt line up as perfectly. the metal isn't very forgiving but a small price to pay for this DIY fix. I also had to use a bigger uncut sock on the left side as opposed to small cut slithers on the right. Nonetheless I'm pleased and will crank up the volume a little more :banana:
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
just tested this out and it's legit!

however, I did notice that the opening on the left compared to the right was significantly harder than the right one. I had to use three fingers opposed to using one when on the right side as the opennings didnt line up as perfectly. the metal isn't very forgiving but a small price to pay for this DIY fix. I also had to use a bigger uncut sock on the left side as opposed to small cut slithers on the right. Nonetheless I'm pleased and will crank up the volume a little more :banana:
Excellent! I'm really glad to hear this. :D
 
went to do this and couldn't pin point which oval openings to stuff. can someone please post a pic of which holes to plug??
 
Yup I did this too a couple of months back. I used some pieces of felt and crammed them in there. My rattle was loud before the audio fix; all roads that were not very smooth sounded like a snare drum. I drive 45 miles a day and it was maddening. I posted some pics of my process in another thread that shows which holes.
 
I have a 13' sport and don't see any oval openings just the speaker cut outs. I'm thinking I prob just need to remove the entire rear deck and just insulate with foam? Maybe I should just use sound deadening material instead...
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
I have a 13' sport and don't see any oval openings just the speaker cut outs. I'm thinking I prob just need to remove the entire rear deck and just insulate with foam? Maybe I should just use sound deadening material instead...
You don't have these oval cutouts in your trunk?
 

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