Drive Accord Honda Forums banner
1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys - After reading so much good stuff about the sway bar installation I am inclined to get one for my Sport. I have missed the stiffer suspension of my 2010 Accord Coupe, but not its horrible seats.

From what I have gathered, the best bet would be to go with the Acura TL SHAWD rear sway bar since it is the right size.

I prefer a stiffer suspension but don't want to become harsh. I am just wary of making it uncomfortable. For people who have made the mod can they chime in with their feedback and also confirm the part number -
52300-TK5-A02 SPRING, RR. STABILIZER ?

Much appreciated!
 

·
2014 CBP CR2 6MT
Joined
·
127 Posts
It shouldn't make the ride harsher since the shocks and springs handle up and down loads. I plan to get one as well just to help turn in feel in the rear. Stock is a little too squirmy for me.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
Lots of discussion on that one in this thread. In case you haven't read it, I'll give you the summary as it relates to this bar in particular.

The part number's correct, but be aware that the bar will touch or rub against the chassis once mounted unless you tinker with the mounting points. Some people are comfortable with that and some aren't. I haven't done the mod myself, but those who have tend to say it gives you a huge improvement in the corners without making the ride much harsher. It might create a slight amount of oversteer, which comes on gradually; that can be corrected by swapping in the front sway bar from the V6 Accord. Changing the one up front sounds like a giant PITA, though - much more difficult than the one in the rear. One guy ended up taking his RSB out because it was creating rattles, but there was only one report of that compared to dozens of happy modders. If you're not comfortable with the rubbing, you might want to consider the Progress RSB because it doesn't touch anything. If you go that route, you'll definitely want to upgrade the FSB as well since the Progress bar is bigger than the one off the TL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lots of discussion on that one in this thread. In case you haven't read it, I'll give you the summary as it relates to this bar in particular.

The part number's correct, but be aware that the bar will touch or rub against the chassis once mounted unless you tinker with the mounting points. Some people are comfortable with that and some aren't. I haven't done the mod myself, but those who have tend to say it gives you a huge improvement in the corners without making the ride much harsher. It might create a slight amount of oversteer, which comes on gradually; that can be corrected by swapping in the front sway bar from the V6 Accord. Changing the one up front sounds like a giant PITA, though - much more difficult than the one in the rear. One guy ended up taking his RSB out because it was creating rattles, but there was only one report of that compared to dozens of happy modders. If you're not comfortable with the rubbing, you might want to consider the Progress RSB because it doesn't touch anything. If you go that route, you'll definitely want to upgrade the FSB as well since the Progress bar is bigger than the one off the TL.
Actually after posting this message, I went through the entire thread. Fascinating stuff as it it evolved over the days with different opinions and take aways. Good stuff!

I do have concerns about the 20mm one since it is rubbing - it can cause issues in the future and I do want to keep the car for the long haul. Also, installing the FSB and the 20mm one would require altering the front ones as well. I don't think I will want to tinker with the front one much.

So much question is, if anyone has installed the non-awd TL one (19mm). Does it rub and by how much? The safest option would be to go for the TSX one (17mm) since it does not rub at all, but than how much of an improvement that would be over the stock ones? Worth it?
 

·
Former H Master Tech
Joined
·
318 Posts
Make sure you get the sway bar mount bushings too off the TL-SHAWD. The OEM ones are too small to fit over the thicker sway bar correctly. Also, lightly lubricate the bushings with a lithium or silicone grease during the install to prevent from noises.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Make sure you get the sway bar mount bushings too off the TL-SHAWD. The OEM ones are too small to fit over the thicker sway bar correctly. Also, lightly lubricate the bushings with a lithium or silicone grease during the install to prevent from noises.
I presume you have the RSB installed. Any issues with the rubbing? Also, did you get the front ones swapped as well?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
I installed the SH TL-AWD bar and have no rubbing issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Progress Bar

Actually if you have the V6 Coupe I would suggest the Progress bar, it's a quality part, direct fit with everything you need. Easy to install and adjust stiffness if need be. The combination of this bar and springs removed the squishy feel and gave the accord an overall stiffer feeling. It's not harsh on the softer setting and it's not hard enough to create rattles. I do agree that I'm in need of a front bar but I just am careful for the time being until I find one that matches...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I actually have a Sport and I don't want to be tinkering with the front end. Therefore, my options are limited to 20mm and below.

I read on this forum that a FWD19mm might be a good compromise.
 

·
Former H Master Tech
Joined
·
318 Posts
I presume you have the RSB installed. Any issues with the rubbing? Also, did you get the front ones swapped as well?
Yes, I have one. I actually put a piece of adhesive rubber on the subframe between where the two meet. It just barley touched the subframe, I did that as a precaution.

V6s have larger front sway bars because they have 200lbs of additional weight high over the front tires that will cause heavy body roll. Honda added a larger front sway bar to help with with some of the roll and a larger rear one to balance it out. V6 accord are pigs in the turns in comparison to the 4cyl due to that high mounted weight, even with the larger bars. After a test drive in each car you can really feel the difference that 200lbs makes in a turn.

Having a car that handles well is part of a balanced equation. People don't understand the negative effects a larger front sway-bar can have on your accords handling dynamics. By adding a larger sway bar to the front it reduces body roll at the expense of understeer. It transfers almost all the weight to the outside front wheel, causing the car to lose traction and push in tight turns. Most cars are built to understeer from the factory for the safety of the average buyer/driver. By leaving the front bar alone and just adding a larger rear bar your car will handle much more neutrally and even oversteer if you want, when pushing to the limits. It does this by allowing the front tires to get as much traction as possible at the expense of some body roll, but the rear being tight enough to stay flat and push itself through the turn.

I have many years in auto racing and built 20+ suspension setups, this is the only way to turn a fast lap time in a FWD or AWD car with street tires... RWD platforms and race tire setups are a whole different beast though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,689 Posts
RJRacing and others pretty much summed it up.

Progress bar has two settings. If you find one setting too stiff, then you can change to other setting(acts more like 20mm TL bar).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Progress bar will lessen body roll and quicken turn in, overall handling feel is greatly improved.

At 22mm its the largest bar avail., downside is that the stiffen ride.
Road noise over bumps and joints will increase, the smooth thump is replaced with a "worn-out shock" thump. Comfort is like they way it sounds over the bumps.

You will also need to drill larger holes on the bracket mounts.
Meaning the OEM bolts will no longer fit, reverting back to OEM brackets will no longer be an option.

Despite the downsides, after the upgrade i bought a set of energy bushing and bracket inorder to switch back to the OEM. Within a week the Progress bar was back on! I can no longer get use to the body roll and slow response of the OEM bar.

I do want to try the 19mm to see if i can get some of that comfort back, mostly the smooth thump sound.
Or go back to OEM bars and swap the springs for Eibachs.
Also pondering on the smaller front swaybar on the 4 door lx.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Progress bar will lessen body roll and quicken turn in, overall handling feel is greatly improved.

At 22mm its the largest bar avail., downside is that the stiffen ride.
Road noise over bumps and joints will increase, the smooth thump is replaced with a "worn-out shock" thump. Comfort is like they way it sounds over the bumps.

You will also need to drill larger holes for the bracket mounts.
Meaning the OEM bolts will no longer fit, reverting back to OEM brackets will no longer be an option.

Despite the downsides, after the upgrade i back a set of energy bushing and bracket inorder to switch back to the OEM. Within a week the Progress bar was back on! I can no longer get use to the body roll and slow response of the OEM bar.

I do want to try the 19mm to see if i can get some of that comfort back, mostly the smooth thump sound.
Or go back to OEM bars and swap the springs for Eibachs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
901 Posts
Yes, I have one. I actually put a piece of adhesive rubber on the subframe between where the two meet. It just barley touched the subframe, I did that as a precaution.

V6s have larger front sway bars because they have 200lbs of additional weight high over the front tires that will cause heavy body roll. Honda added a larger front sway bar to help with with some of the roll and a larger rear one to balance it out. V6 accord are pigs in the turns in comparison to the 4cyl due to that high mounted weight, even with the larger bars. After a test drive in each car you can really feel the difference that 200lbs makes in a turn.

Having a car that handles well is part of a balanced equation. People don't understand the negative effects a larger front sway-bar can have on your accords handling dynamics. By adding a larger sway bar to the front it reduces body roll at the expense of understeer. It transfers almost all the weight to the outside front wheel, causing the car to lose traction and push in tight turns. Most cars are built to understeer from the factory for the safety of the average buyer/driver. By leaving the front bar alone and just adding a larger rear bar your car will handle much more neutrally and even oversteer if you want, when pushing to the limits. It does this by allowing the front tires to get as much traction as possible at the expense of some body roll, but the rear being tight enough to stay flat and push itself through the turn.

I have many years in auto racing and built 20+ suspension setups, this is the only way to turn a fast lap time in a FWD or AWD car with street tires... RWD platforms and race tire setups are a whole different beast though.
We're talking accords, not race cars here. You can mod the hell out of your 4 banger and you're not going to keep up with the stock v6, regardless of this extra 200 lbs. Don't forget about the the high center steering on that pig V6 either...
 

·
Former H Master Tech
Joined
·
318 Posts
We're talking accords, not race cars here. You can mod the hell out of your 4 banger and you're not going to keep up with the stock v6, regardless of this extra 200 lbs. Don't forget about the the high center steering on that pig V6 either...
And i was talking about handling of sway bars on accords like everyone else, not "how fast the V6 is in a straight line". The only reason I brought up my racing experience was so others would understand I know what I'm talking about... unlike you. He asked if he should use front sway bars off a V6 and i explained why not to. You make me laugh, did i hit you below the belt with that? I modded my 4 banger so it looks good, handles well and gets great MPG as my daily driver because i have fast cars & bikes... well beyond what any accord will ever be capable of.

There is always that one person that takes things off subject... lets get back on track here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
901 Posts
And i was talking about handling of sway bars on accords like everyone else, not "how fast the V6 is in a straight line". He asked if he should get front sway bars off a V6, and i explained why not to. You make me laugh, did i hit you below the belt? I modded my 4 banger so it looks good, handles well and gets great MPG as my daily driver because i have fast cars & bikes... well beyond what any accord will ever be.
you're saying the v6 it's a pig in the turns compared to the 4. I challenge that concept that the 4 actually handles better let alone noticeably. I drove both hard in and out of turns while considering them. I'd argue the 6 handles better with the added weight providing traction into the corners and massive torque and grip pulling you out. Yes the 6 obviously "goes straight faster", but I'd bet my left nut the 4 won't keep up on any road course either.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Former H Master Tech
Joined
·
318 Posts
you're saying the v6 it's a pig in the turns compared to the 4. I challenge that concept that the 4 actually handles better let alone noticeably. I drove both hard in and out of turns while considering them. I'd argue the 6 handles better with the added weight providing traction into the corners and massive torque and grip pulling you out. Yes the 6 obviously "goes straight faster", but I'd bet my left nut the 4 won't keep up on any road course either.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Your local, want to bet that left nut at an Auto-X event? Thats a true test of a cars handling ability... and drivers skill :) If you think 200lbs of additional weight at the front of a car that is already off balance wont negatively effect your handling, then your just plain stupid. Your "massive torque" wont get traction as your pushing through a fast turn... without traction you have no speed. Since you don't believe me, here are what a major car editor says and their stats:

Motor Trend: "The four-cylinder is the sweetheart of the gas-only group. It feels quicker behind the wheel than expected and handles better. While the electric steering in all the cars is totally numb, it's reasonably quick, linear, and nicely weighted. On four-cylinder cars, it's actually quite nice to pilot through the curves -- for a midsize sedan anyway. The car is very neutral in everyday driving, defaulting to understeer when pushed. We tried an emergency lane change-type maneuver and while we were able to get the rear to step out slightly, it never made any attempt to come around. The V-6 car, however, felt more nose-heavy and more inclined to understeer. Furthermore, the steering lost some of its linearity. It felt as though we were constantly beating the power steering with our inputs."


Here is a comparison of Edmunds site of an EX-L V6 vs EX (which is heavier, smaller wheels, and has worse tires than a sport). Check out the slalom...
 

Attachments

·
Grinding Gears
Joined
·
269 Posts
Your local, want to bet that left nut at an Auto-X event? Thats a true test of a cars handling ability... and drivers skill :) If you think 200lbs of additional weight at the front of a car that is already off balance wont negatively effect your handling, then your just plain stupid. Your "massive torque" wont get traction as your pushing through a fast turn... without traction you have no speed. Since you don't believe me, here are what a major car editor says and their stats:

Motor Trend: "The four-cylinder is the sweetheart of the gas-only group. It feels quicker behind the wheel than expected and handles better. While the electric steering in all the cars is totally numb, it's reasonably quick, linear, and nicely weighted. On four-cylinder cars, it's actually quite nice to pilot through the curves -- for a midsize sedan anyway. The car is very neutral in everyday driving, defaulting to understeer when pushed. We tried an emergency lane change-type maneuver and while we were able to get the rear to step out slightly, it never made any attempt to come around. The V-6 car, however, felt more nose-heavy and more inclined to understeer. Furthermore, the steering lost some of its linearity. It felt as though we were constantly beating the power steering with our inputs."


Here is a comparison of Edmunds site of an EX-L V6 vs EX (which is heavier, smaller wheels, and has worse tires than a sport). Check out the slalom...
While I don't disagree with your analysis/point of view, I do find it amusing that you conveniently cut out the EX CVT's 0-60 time from that screenshot :lmao:

But either way, no matter how you slice it, the Accord is still a boat compared to cars that were actually made to handle. An Accord is a comfortable cruiser/family car with some sporty aspects built into it, not the other way around.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top