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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 2013 Honda Accord 2DR with Push-To-Start.

I was able to obtain the Vehicle Wiring from here:
http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp...te Start&make=Honda&model=Accord (Smart Key)#


and I was able to obtain the Viper 4704v Installation guide from The12Volt:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1170

I am panning on using the iDatalink bypass.

As I was looking through the installation guide, the "H3" harness confuses me, like the ignition flex relays wires. Where to do I solder those wires to?
Some wires are self-explanatory, like the accessory/starter output wire connects to the Accessory wire of the car. BUT the car has a second accessory/starter, which wires on the harness I connect it to?
Basically, the Harness (H3) wires 1,2, 5-8, are wires that are confusing me.

Please help me if you can, I really appreciate it! Also don't suggest me to go to a pro installer. I am doing it myself and then post a DIY, giving back to the community for helping me. I am sure a lot of members will love to have a remote start DIY tutorial.

A sketch drawing will definitely help too! Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
For future reference:

I want thank Kreg357 from the12volt.com for this info:

Quoted from Kreg357

"Your 2013 Honda Accord 2 DR Auto Trans PTS vehicle install using an ADS AL CA w/DL HA6 firmware is
rather unique. Basically, you will follow the Type 2 diagram found in the ADS Install Guide #12456 .

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 11, White wire *
H3/2 RED/WHITE +12V (30A) FLEX RELAY INPUT @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 23, Green wire
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 18, Blue wire **
H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug
H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 24, Gray wire ***
H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a Not Used
H3/8 RED/BLACK +12V (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug

* This wire also goes to the ADS AL CA Pink wire on the 7 Pin connector.
** This wire also goes to the ADS AL CA Black/White wire on 10 Pin connector.
*** Program Viper 4704V Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 2 for Flex Relay = Accessory 2.

Please note that the ADS AL CA bypass module must be flashed with the DBI-AL(DL)-HA6 and the bypass
programming is a multi- step KLON process. You must have the ADS USB flash cable and authorized
access to the iDatalink Flash WEB site."
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You will NOT lose any of the factory smart fob through my guide.

Anyone know which wire I would tap the REAR DEFROSTER(Its an OUPUT from the Remote start) from the REMOTE START to the CAR?
What is the Honda tech member user name? I'll try to PM him for this info if no one knows.

So far, the project will be very easy you will only need to solder/tap TEN(10)[11, if you want the rear defroster activated with the remote start fob] into the car wiring. This is NOT a lot at all for remote start because every other wires (A LOT of them) will be taken care of by the Data-2-Data connection between the Idatalink and remote start. :thumbsup:


Here's more from Kreg357 from the12volt.com. Shout out to Kreg357 for his time.

For your vehicle the ADS AL CA bypass module will be flashed with the DBI-AL(DL)-HA6 firmware
and set to Installation Mode = Data Mode for D2D communication between it and the Viper 4704V.

The correct install guide is #12456 using the Type 2 diagram. In the diagram, all the Red dashed
line are handled by D2D communication. They do not have to be hard-wired. Only the Black solid
lines have to be hard-wired. You are correct that some of the data supplied by the bypass module
to the 4704V is not required and not used. Things like Door and Trunk Status would be used by an
Alarm system or required if your Accord had a manual transmission. The E-Brake status might be
used by the 4704V as the Neutral Safety Input, but I am not sure.

H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT Not used
H2/2 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT Not used Might need to connect to Chassis Ground if the D2D E-Brake signal isn't used.
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT I don't have any info for this vehicle.
H2/4 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/5 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT* Not used, D2D takes care of this
H2/7 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT Not used
H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT Not used, D2D takes care of this
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT Not used
H2/11 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT Not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUTNot used
H2/13 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT Not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT Not used
H2/15 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT Not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) Not used, D2D takes care of this if vehicle has Factory Hood Pin
H2/18 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT Not used
H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) Not used
H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT Not used
H2/21 WHITE/BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT Not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT Not used
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT Not used
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Damien22! :thmsup:

Here's more info from Kreg357:

When you were on the iDatalink WEB site looking up your car, if you narrowed it down to Honda, 2013,
Accord PTS Coupe 2 Drs Automatic, ADS AL CA only, it would show you just 2 firmware options. The
one that starts off with ADS is for use with remote start units that use the iDatalink communication D2D
protocol. The one that starts off with DBI is for use with remote start units that need the Directed DBI style
D2D communication protocol, like your Viper 4704V.

This is very important. As mentioned previously, your module must be flashed with this version of firmware
( DBI ). Also mentioned earlier, it uses the KLON process to bypass the Accords' transponder based ignition
immobilizer system. This KLON process requires that the module be removed from the vehicle during
programming, reconnected to the ADS USB cable / PC / iDatalink Flash WEB site for extended programming
and then reconnected to the vehicle to finish programming and then normal use. This is all detailed on
Page 17 of the install guide. The ADS USB programming cable is not supplied with the bypass module
and must be purchased separately ( ~ $60 ).

As for the Vipers Lock & Unlock output wires, this function is done via the D2D harness, so no hard-wire
connection is necessary. Also note that the Viper Lock output does both a Lock and an Arm function.

H1/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT Optional **
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay Not used
H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY Set Jumper/Fuse to (-) and connect as per iDatalink install guide
H1/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Not used

** More info on the vehicles Horn wire :
Horn Trigger Lt. Blue to Orange (-) @ horn switch or dash fuse box, Green 36 pin Plug (E), Pin 34
A direct hard-wire connection is used.

More info on Parking Light connection ( the iDatalink guide is very brief on this wire ) :
Parking Lights(-) Gray (-) @ headlight switch, White 12 pin plug, Pin 8
A direct hard-wire connection is used ( after setting the Vipers' Parking Light Jumper/Fuse to (-) ).


Programming the idatatlink bypass module

From Kreg357:

The iDatalink bypass module is programmed with a multi-step process, as follows :
1. Have Dealer flash the module with the DBI-AL(DL)-HA6 firmware.
2. Properly make all the necessary connections shown in the install guide. Don't plug in the harnesses yet.
3. Do a Factory Reset on the module and then follow it with the Install Mode selection ( one blink ) and lock it in.
4. Plug in the rest of the bypass plugs.
5. Start the actual vehicle programming.
6. At Step 4 disconnect the module and bring to Dealer.
7. Dealer will perform Step 5. ( extended programming )
8. Re-connect the module in the vehicle as per Step 6.
9. Continue the programming process through Step 11.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Anyone know where exactly the "SMART PCU" is located?
Page #6 of the install guide: http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA6/DBI-AL(DL)-HA6-EN_20131015.pdf

Buy the "idatalink ADS-AL-CA 64K Multi-Platform Immobilizer Bypass" Make sure it's the "64K" model. It is the latest model from idatalink and it comes with the idatalink to DEI D2D cable that is need to connect using Data-2-Data connection with DEI products, like Viper, Python, Clifford, etc.

Older models does NOT come with the idatalink to DEI D2D cable. However, you can buy the cable separately if you have the older model (Non-64K).
 

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The smart pcu is acutally the Keyless Access Control Unit left of the steering column, to the right of the fuse box.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here's the remote fob size comparison. I will be installing the RS system this Sunday or Monday. Hopefully the Bypass comes in the mail tomorrow. EDIT: It'll be here Tomorrow :banana:
Bypass module: $52
Viper 4704v RS: $176
Bestbuy flashing the Bypass Module only: $10
Total: $238

The remote with the screen is 2-way, the non-screen remote is 1-way.
2-Way means, the remote will notify/conformation that the car successfully RS-ed, Locked or Unlocked. and I think if the alarm is triggered.





 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bypass Module came in the mail today, just as expected. :banana:

ONLY the two harness on the LEFT will be used. One is Data-2-Data cable (Plug 'N Play into the Viper RS). The other, you'll have to hard wire 5 wires to the car.

The Harnesses on the RIGHT will NOT be used :banana::banana:

 

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Thanks for documenting this. I am considering this now as it gets colder and my car is no longer garaged.
 

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Do you still need to carry both remotes for your keyless access to work? I assume yes?

I am wanting to get a remote starter, but I have a few requirements. I won't be installing this myself, going to my local installer but they were not 100% certain if its possible to get what I want.

Khanh, can you tell me if your setup will do what I want? If so, then I can tell my installer that this setup works.
Car: 2013 Accord Coupe EX-L V6 MT. With pushbutton start and keyless access.

Requirements:
1. Do not want to lose a keyfob to the system. I assume that is what the idatalink is for?
2. Want my pushbutton start and my keyless access to continue to work as normal
3. Want my remote starter to turn on rear defrost (if possible set heat as well)
4. 2-way obviously. 1mile range (standard on top line anyways)
5. If I could get a button to roll up all windows, that would be great as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Do you still need to carry both remotes for your keyless access to work? I assume yes?

I am wanting to get a remote starter, but I have a few requirements. I won't be installing this myself, going to my local installer but they were not 100% certain if its possible to get what I want.

Khanh, can you tell me if your setup will do what I want? If so, then I can tell my installer that this setup works.
Car: 2013 Accord Coupe EX-L V6 MT. With pushbutton start and keyless access.

Requirements:
1. Do not want to lose a keyfob to the system. I assume that is what the idatalink is for?
2. Want my pushbutton start and my keyless access to continue to work as normal
3. Want my remote starter to turn on rear defrost (if possible set heat as well)
4. 2-way obviously. 1mile range (standard on top line anyways)
5. If I could get a button to roll up all windows, that would be great as well.
1) yupp, Factory fob will NOT be lost

2) of course, you can still turn the car on as if you never installed the RS.

3 & 5) Possible, additional wiring, programming, and hardware will be required. RS have 3 AUX wiring. Those wiring can be hooked up and program to turn on heated seats, window roll up or down, open/close sunroof independently, etc.

4) Viper 4704v is a 2-way system RS. The 5704v is also 2-way system RS *AND* Security.



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Thank you for your help :)
Can't wait till you finish your DIY
 

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I forgot to add one more thing.

The Honda car starter, when you start the vehicle with remote start, and then unlock your vehicle, it shuts off.
With your system, does it do this? BTW, I have a Manual trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I forgot to add one more thing.

The Honda car starter, when you start the vehicle with remote start, and then unlock your vehicle, it shuts off.
With your system, does it do this? BTW, I have a Manual trans.
Unfortunately, the Accords with PTS, it shuts off when the doors are open.

Murph from iDatalink said

"There is no take over on this platform. The vehicle should die when you open the door. That is how it is designed and there is no way around it."
:thumbsdow :(
 
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