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Hey guys if I buy this part

Hub bearing assembly

Do I simply remove the 4 bolts holding it in and it can be pulled out with out any tools (AKA some sort of special puller)? It looks like it would slide right out of the knuckle? See attached diagram. Also it says to replace the O-Ring... doesn't this come with the new part? Thanks

Auto part Diagram Text Axle part Transfer case part
 

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Hi,
Did you ever replace the bearing/hub? I just replaced the left rear yesterday. Easy! The 4 bolts that hold the hub in are easy to get to and the hub comes right off of the knuckle.

The toughest part of the job is deciding which brand name hub to buy. RockAuto carries something like 6 brands with a pretty big price spread. I ended up buying the Timken and it looked like a very high quality part.

No more noise! Now I can hear the wind noise over the mirrors again!
 

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Modern cars are moving towards sealed bearings and away from pressed bearings. They're more expensive for the entire unit, but a LOT easier to replace.

Me personally I would only use a genuine Honda bearing, no matter the price. I've never been completely happy with any aftermarket parts for my Honda cars.
 

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... How many miles are on your car?
 

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82K miles. Way too early for a bearing failure. I'm going to pull the bearings out of the hub housing and see if I can find out what happened. The bearing isn't that rough but I can feel an occasional bad spot. Suspect a skidding ball.

Honda hasn't been impressing me with their quality. Bearing failure. Brake pads kind of suck. Rotors kind of suck. VTC actuator kind of sucks. I thought about a Honda rear hub but I figured that they buy them from someone else anyway and RockAuto carries name brands.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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82K miles. Way too early for a bearing failure. I'm going to pull the bearings out of the hub housing and see if I can find out what happened. The bearing isn't that rough but I can feel an occasional bad spot. Suspect a skidding ball.

Honda hasn't been impressing me with their quality. Bearing failure. Brake pads kind of suck. Rotors kind of suck. VTC actuator kind of sucks. I thought about a Honda rear hub but I figured that they buy them from someone else anyway and RockAuto carries name brands.
Honda does the specifications though so just because something comes from the same supplier it doesn't mean it's made to the same specs.
 

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I second the Timkin bearings. Had them on my galant vr4.
 

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Yup easy job...

It surprisingly is a very easy job.
I agree if you can do break job this is easy to do provided you have correct tools.
Long story but I always had noise problem with 08 Accord that I bought used in 2011 with 73K miles.
Now it is on 136K and I put brand new shocks (rear), break pads all around and new tires.
Even with the new tires noise is very loud. Previously passenger rear tire had cupping which is why I changed shocks.
Now with brand new tires and noise, it's time to change bearing.
I took pictures to guide next person through, I hope this helps...
Tools - metric wrench set. metric sockets. socket extensions. Air impact wrench (really makes it easy to take out rusted bolts...)
NOTE: I had just done break job so it was relatively easy to remove caliper and bracket.

1. Remove tire.
2. If necessary remove screws holding the break rotor on to the hub. This is PIA screws to remove as they get rusted. I prefer to simply drill them out. These are not needed anyways.
3. Remove break caliper, two 14mm bolts, swing/slide out caliper and move aside (figure WB-1, WB-2)
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=405681
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=405689
4. Remove caliper bracket, two 17mm bolts (figure WB-3, WB-4, WB-5), now pull out caliper bracket with pads straight out...
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=405657
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=405673
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=405665

5. Now remove the wheel bearing hub by removing 4 17mm bolts (Figure WB-6) , first use PB blaster type rust penetration liquid on the front of hub. After some time, remove 4 bolts from the back. I used 9" socket extension and power impact wrench and it came out in seconds...

6. Put the new wheen bearing hub in and reverse above steps with 4 bolts in the back, then break caliper bracket and then break caliper. Remember to torque as per the spec give on the first posting in this thread.

I am waiting for new parts to arrive so I should know by next week if my noise problem is solved :)

- Robert
 

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Job completed.

So I finished the job.
See attached pictures.
Rear axel is now whisper quiet.

But I do have noise in the front and it definately looks like bearings.
I have front's on order.
That job will be little more tricky due to pressing the bearings.
I am hoping to have local shop do that for me if I can get knuckle freed from the car...
 

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