[RunSomewhere]

tldr; Spent almost $4k on maintenance in the past year. Do I spend another $3.5-4k to maintain it or trade it in?

My '13 V6 EX-L has just shy of 96k miles. I'm a stickler for maintenance and have done everything recommended and more. In the past year I've replaced the spark plugs, timing belt, water pump, starter motor, all the fluids, and a new set of winter tires. Close to $4k in all. Some gasket was leaking when I did the timing belt, but it was going cost another $800 so I opted for a $30 leak-stop additive and it seems to have worked. I've a few issues recently:

First, when I put my winter tires on I noticed the parking brake doesn't stop one of the rear wheels anymore. Second, there's a rattle at low rpms. A local shop (which I trust) said the caliper is frozen, and I should replace both rear calipers (and then brake fluid). $850.

The rattling is the flex pipe which for some dumb Honda reason is one piece with the catalytic converter. I haven't read anything good about aftermarket catalytic converters, and the dealer wants $1500 for the part, probably $2k with labor.

My regular tires need to be replaced in the spring, expecting around $800.

When I'm in a parking lot and turn the wheel more than half-way to the right, there's an add noise. Both my shop and dealer told me nothing is wrong, but I'm wondering what else may break .

In all I'm getting close to another $4k in maintenance. I'm starting to wonder if it's worth it on this almost 10 year-old machine. I would for sure miss the V6.

Would you repair or replace it?

 

[slimm1469]

I would first find a better mechanic. I'd bet good money dealers have overcharged you for parts and service. If you search the Drive Accord site, there are a lot of posts about where to get better prices for OEM parts. Since you're a "stickler for maintenance," that makes you an easy mark at a dealer. Keep that to yourself. I worked at a Mercedes-Volvo dealer in another lifetime, and I know their antics. I think your biggest problem is lack of decent, honest service.

 

[14v6]

I got rid of my 14V6 when the starter was having issues and it was due for a timing belt. I elected to trade it in. The thought of having to spend 4k on 7 year old car that didn't have the updated safety features made the decision to trade it in easy.

IMO, once you commit to the timing belt, tensioner and water pump, spark plugs and valve adjustment, that's the point of no return. It's a investment for the long haul. I wasn't willing to do that so I just thought well, it's come to an end as the Accord with a V6 is not replaceable. You will miss the V6 and its effortless power delivery. Don't think a V6 in a Honda Suv is medicine because it's not, they are too heavy to move effortlessly. The 9th gen Accord V6 to me was a once in a lifetime vehicle at that price point, so well equipped.

 

[seldomseen]

Do the math and see what replacement car options you have potentially using the $4k as a down payment to include finance terms, insurance, taxes, et cetera. Unless you can buy the replacement car of your choice in cash.

 

[LeMaster]

This is a miserable market in which to try to buy a car. The V6 is a wonderful engine. I agree to get better mechanic and keep your car. Save all repair receipts for when you want to sell it privately in a few years.

 

[shintony]

The flex pipe portion is on the J pipe and it is a very cheap part.
It’s the parking brake return spring that seized, not the slave cylinder. Don’t replace both calliper unless both are seized. Centric rebuilt rear caliper cost around 80 USD each and I recently replaced both (all seized), the process itself is not difficult at all, plus bleeding the rear two brakes. I’d say it would take 3 hours of labour if not less, because the entire process including lift the car should take 90 minutes.
You’ll also have the option to not replace it, just tighten the parking brake cable. There will be some uneven brake force when parking brake is engaged but I don’t see that as a problem for parking. One of my friend did this to his crosstour and the car stops just fine when parked. A frozen parking brake spring will put some pressure initially, because the parking brake spring never returns to its normal position, once the brake pad wears off it will no longer drag. And this will not affect your normal hydraulic brake.
I suggest replace the caliper when your brake pad is due. This will save lots of labour.

 

[Honda2014]

My question is, does it really cost 4K to replace all parts at this mileage?
Obviously I don’t know the exact condition of your car, but if the car has been well maintained so far, most likely it doesn’t need that much in maintenance at all at that mileage.

I did the timing belt, water pump ie. the whole package at a local independent shop I trust about 1.5 years ago for about $800 or so. Granted, this was an indie shop that typically charges less than the dealerships, you can still get it done at the dealership for $1-1.5k, depending on your area. As far as the rest, spark plugs and valve adjust shouldn’t cost more than a couple hundred each. Spark plug replacement can even be a DIY job if you feel like it. Oil change, trans fluid and brake fluid (that’s if you need them at the same time). That’s about 2k-2.5k all in.

 

[slimm1469]

My question is, does it really cost 4K to replace all parts at this mileage?
Obviously I don’t know the exact condition of your car, but if the car has been well maintained so far, most likely it doesn’t need that much in maintenance at all at that mileage.

I did the timing belt, water pump ie. the whole package at a local independent shop I trust about 1.5 years ago for about $800 or so. Granted, this was an indie shop that typically charges less than the dealerships, you can still get it done at the dealership for $1-1.5k, depending on your area. As far as the rest, spark plugs and valve adjust shouldn’t cost more than a couple hundred each. Spark plug replacement can even be a DIY job if you feel like it. Oil change, trans fluid and brake fluid (that’s if you need them at the same time). That’s about 2k-2.5k all in.

This ^^^^^ Every V6 owner has to spend around $1,200 - $1,500 at 100k miles. There's plenty enough time to prepare for it. You can mess around with cost per mile and all kinds of silly math. (1) The fact remains you have a V6 engine in a solidly built car. (2) you will pay considerably more for another car + taxes, interest, insurance. (3) at some point, you'll have to do expensive maintenance on that car, any car. Rinse repeat. Fix the V6 car and enjoy.

 

[Justinga99]

I wouldn't really consider tires being a maintenance item. It's more a consumable similar to brake pads.

Where do you live that you need winter tires instead of just one good set of all season tires?

The timing belt and pump etc. is a pretty in depth job but everything else you mention can easily be done by yourself after studying some youtube videos. I.E fluid changes and caliper replacements.

Eventually all cars will nickel and dime the owner of it but it doesn't sound like you're there yet.

 

[scar_cle]

I was at the same point in 2021 with my 2012 V6 Accord. I had a nasty spool valve oil leak right after the timing belt and frozen rear calipers. I had already done the Timing belt/water pump so at that point i was the "point of no return" @14v6 had said above. It is great to have the 3.5L V6 for power, Really gonna be hard to replace that gem when it comes time. Im at the point now unless I have complete Engine failure/Lockup Im keepin the car. (even if Trans goes, id probably replace it) Im at a different point in my life where I..(Like many)...dont go into an office anymore. I used to drive 45 miles a day to work now my car just sits in garage until I go to the store or gas station. For me its a no brainer to just keep what I have an enjoy my repairs I have done on it and also most importantly NO CAR PAYMENT!!

 

[DerekWildstar]

I mean, it’s your money, so if you’re ready for a new ride and you can afford it, why not?

I’ve got a 2012 V6 coupe, and with 206k on the odometer, I’m approaching the A156 service. It’s going to need some work beyond just the timing belt/water pump service. My calculation is this - will I spend more on maintenance over a 4 or 5 year period than I would spend on car payments over a similar time period? I haven’t reached that threshold yet, even when I’ve had some expensive repairs. Until the repairs cost more than I would be spending on car payments, I’ll keep mine on the road.

 

[Ang]

That's a lot of overpaying for that maintenance