[hikingnut62]

I have an oil leak issue with both the Valve Assembly Spool and the valve cover gasket in my 2004 Honda Accord LX. From what I've read, it's very possible to remove/replace the Valve Assembly Spool from up top if the valve cover is removed.

My car has 252,000 miles on it. Since I'll have easy access to it while doing the valve cover, should I replace the whole assembly (right at $142 at three reputable online dealers), or just replace the gasket and O-ring? There's no other issue with the car and no codes. Just wonder given the miles and with easy access with the valve cover torn off if it's worth it to spend the money and replace the whole thing.

Any thoughts on this?

 

[frogvtec]

If it has never been replaced and you intend on keeping the car, just replace the whole assembly. IMHO, if it's original and never been changed, it's worth doing. FWIW, I tried changing just the gaskets and it still leaked. Eventually changed whole thing and it's been good.

I replaced mine from up top with valve cover on. It's not too bad and there's quite a few vids out there.

 

[RonnieJ]

You don't need to take the valve cover off to replace the VTEC solenoid gasket.
I replaced this on both of my Accords in the last few weeks, along with the VTC strainer (behind PS pump), as well as rebuilding the PS pump.
All three will most likely leak with age, as the rubber gets hard, flattens, and sometimes cracks.
I did all of it from up top.
VTEC solenoid is easy. Two wires to disconnect, and two plastic clips to remove (break off most likely) from the actuator itself. Then three 10mm bolts, and it is off.
I layed on top of the engine with an inspection mirror and tools, took longer to get the clips off the solenoid than to remove it.
Once removed you can clean it up on your bench, pick out the old gasket, clean the mating surface on the back of the block (brake cleaner, QD electronic cleaner, and scotch brite pad). No need to replace the whole thing, unless you are getting codes, or the gasket/screen are completely clogged up. The only way it will leak after replacing the gasket is if you didn't clean the mating surfaces properly, pinched the gasket on installation, etc. Former is easy to do, the latter pretty hard unless you are ham fisted and impatient.
Torque values on the attachements.
The VTC strainer was leaking as well, so tackled that when I took the PS pump off, then you have to remove belt tensioner, and it is all right there. Two 10mm bolts, super easy to replace.

I already did the valve cover gasket, tube seals, and grommets when I got the cars, to check/adjust valves, but didn't have those gaskets, and they really weren't leaking that bad at the time.
If you are tackling the valve cover, I'd knock them all out.

 

[hikingnut62]

If it has never been replaced and you intend on keeping the car, just replace the whole assembly. IMHO, if it's original and never been changed, it's worth doing. FWIW, I tried changing just the gaskets and it still leaked. Eventually changed whole thing and it's been good.

I replaced mine from up top with valve cover on. It's not too bad and there's quite a few vids out there.

I'm replacing the valve cover gaskets and seals anyway, so I'll have pretty easy access to it from the top at that point. I think I'll start with the gasket first. I don't think we'll keep this car more than another 3-4 years.

@RonnieJ

Thanks for those diagrams. I'll take a look at the VTC strainer. I wasn't aware of that part. I had thought about using some blue Loctite on the bolts for the solenoid. I think it would be easier to pull the power steering hose to do the valve cover. If I do, I plan on using blue Loctite on those bolts as well. Do you think hand tightening would be ok for both of those areas? I don't plan on using Loctite for the valve cover nuts, but do plan on just hand tightening and not over torquing it.

 

[Jay_Young]

I'm replacing the valve cover gaskets and seals anyway, so I'll have pretty easy access to it from the top at that point. I think I'll start with the gasket first. I don't think we'll keep this car more than another 3-4 years.

@RonnieJ

Thanks for those diagrams. I'll take a look at the VTC strainer. I wasn't aware of that part. I had thought about using some blue Loctite on the bolts for the solenoid. I think it would be easier to pull the power steering hose to do the valve cover. If I do, I plan on using blue Loctite on those bolts as well. Do you think hand tightening would be ok for both of those areas? I don't plan on using Loctite for the valve cover nuts, but do plan on just hand tightening and not over torquing it.

I just made a post about an additional source of an oil leak from the VTC solenoid on the rear of the head if you want to check it out while you have it removed.

 

[hikingnut62]

@Jay_Young,

Can you post a link to your post?

 

[Jay_Young]

@Jay_Young, Can you post a link to your post?

You can click on my account and find it. (My 1 discussion) I can't link it on my mobile for some reason...

 

[hikingnut62]

Aha. I wasn't aware of that. Took a quick look and see a lot of nice detail. I'll look at in more detail this week. Thanks!