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Northern Canada
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
MODERATOR EDIT:

1) Yes, you can get a larger battery in your I4 or V6. You can put a size 24F in your 7th Gen.
2) Most batteries are made by Exide, Johnson Controls, or East Penn- resellers slap their name onto these batteries and you buy them as Diehard, Autocraft, Duracell, Kirkland, Interstate, Everstart, NAPA, etc....
3) Buy one with the longest warranty and one that will HONOR the warranty- even if you are away from your home town.
- RickBlaine


So I finally got around to installing the V6 battery in my 06 and all I have to say is that everybody who has a I4 Accord should do this easy mod! (even if you don't live in a cold climate)

Where I live it got down to 10F overnight, so instead of letting the tiny I4 battery do its thing I quickly installed the bigger tray, hold down bracket, bigger ground cable and V6 battery before I started it this morning. (Took a total of about 10 minutes, maybe less)

Without evening plugging it in, it started like it was the middle of summer! I couldn't believe how fast the engine cranked over. Even during the summer, with the I4 battery it seemed to have a hard time cranking. Now there won't be any starting issues anymore! Which is a good thing because in Northern Canada, at the extreme of the winter it can get down to -40F!
 

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Northern Canada
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I4 battery: 410CCA
V6 battery: 550CCA
 

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whats the difference? is the 4cyl a Group 27 battery and the v6 a Group 31? im used to having a 31 in my old taco and i had a 34 in my F150. although i do know the 34s could fit in the taco engine compartment with some slight modification. hell, you could fit 2 31s in there if you took the time to relocate the radiator reservoir.
 

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Michael
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I upgrade to Group 35, very happy about the Optima's size and weight too. Glad it makes such a huge difference for you!
 

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Upgrade Complete Here, Also

I too have performed the battery upgrade (to a Group 35). While the original size battery is sufficient to start the car, even when new it never did so with inspiring confidence. Cranks were always sluggish, particularly after sitting for extended periods in cold weather.

Honda knows the original battery is weak and minimalistic. It was a way for them to cut corners. Where the headlights turn themselves off after a ridiculous one minute, or whatever it is, if the engine isn't running. If they had to do something like that, they should have made it a logical and useful 10 minutes, or thereabouts, before the things turn themselves off. Because SOMETIMES YOU NEED LIGHTS TO STAY ON FOR SAFETY REASONS.
 

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Any downsides to doing this? I think I may have read about an individual or two who had issues after. It's something I've considered, but the possibility of the extra voltage causing something to burn out gives me pause. Please convince me. :)
 

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been wanting to do this.. can someone list the part and part numbers i will need for this?

also where do you guys get the battery? any particular brand?

got my 2007 used a little over a year ago. and i dont thnk the battery has been changed since the car was new. so i think its due for a new battery soon.. especially with winter coming up
 

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Northern Canada
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is the parts list:

32600-SDB-A00 Cable Assembly ($11.35)
31512-SDB-A01 Battery Hold Down Plate ($5.23)
31521-SDB-A00 Battery Box ($16.77)

Any class 35 battery will work. If you goto a parts store to look one up, make sure you enter V6 for the engine size.

I am from Canada, and most places in the states wont ship up here. I ended up ordering all 3 parts from a local dealer and it cost me right around $70. Price it out on a website like www.hondapartsnow.com and it will be closer to $35

There will be no downside to doing this upgrade, the charging and the battery voltage will stay the same. The upside is that you will have higher cranking amps and a larger capacity battery.
 

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Bigger batteries tend to make your starter last longer also. Less stress on the starter.
 

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I'm still curious if the tiny Optima will fit in the i4's provided location. The Group 35 red top is small!
I'm sure it will since I just put a 24F, which is bigger than a 35, in mine using the stock tray and a generic hold down bracket.
 

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Michael
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Awesome, so anyone who wants to upgrade their i4 battery, the Group 35 from Optima Red Top should fit. That's the one recommended for the V6, but it's super tiny. 910 cranking amps.
 

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Bigger batteries tend to make your starter last longer also. Less stress on the starter.
Even more so, the Alternator... which is why I'm interested. I'll get this done when it's time to replace my battery.
 

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Where has everyone gotten their batteries? I am pricing them and it is kind of shocking. I know I should do this upgrade before it gets to the negatives here. Also would up grading the ground help. I think the stock ground is causing my fluctuating rpm while coasting.
Input please
 

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Where has everyone gotten their batteries? I am pricing them and it is kind of shocking. I know I should do this upgrade before it gets to the negatives here. Also would up grading the ground help. I think the stock ground is causing my fluctuating rpm while coasting.
Input please
I got the Duralast Gold 24F from AutoZone for $90 after core refund. The Duralast Golds in my truck lasted over six years. $15 a year is not a bad price. Even if it only last until just after the three year replacement warranty is up, that is only $30 a year.
 

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Any downsides to doing this? I think I may have read about an individual or two who had issues after. It's something I've considered, but the possibility of the extra voltage causing something to burn out gives me pause. Please convince me. :)
Adds weight ahead of the front axle.
 

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Northern Canada
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Adds weight ahead of the front axle.
The difference in weight between the I4 battery and the V6 battery would be less than 10 lbs. Very small. 10lbs of increased rotating mass is a different story though!

PurdueSilver:

The cable assembly that you buy from Honda is a larger ground.

One thing I did notice, the stock ground cable is bolted down to the sheet metal right beside the battery but it isn't even ground down to bare metal! Mine was bolted down to a painted surface. :thumbsdow Considering that this is the only ground connection from the negative post on the battery to the frame, make sure you grind down the paint to bare metal before installing the new cable! That would definitely help any grounding issues.
 
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