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NAPA Legend Gold level - buy the highest CCA rating you can and be done with it!
I haven't had good luck with using the Legend Premium series (Deka mfg.) from NAPA. The first one died in 8 months & was replaced free under warranty, that one went 2.5 yrs. then was prorated, waiting to see how long this one lasts (all 3 were the upgraded V6 battery). Completely sealed battery's are suppose to have a shorter lifespan though.
 

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I just replace the battery in my '07 lx last night. I replaced it with a group 24 - it was the cheapest larger battery I found. I removed the old cover and tray and just set the battery on the metal shelf. Doing that you can reuse the old hold down (tab needs to be bent straight on it). Fit in fine and started right up. I don't drive this car much right now (it is a spare) so I need a battery with capacity that can go 2-4 weeks between charges. The old 51R had died. As noted, the nwer 24 is much larger, more CCA and much more capacity. So, if you don't care about the OEM look, you can replace the battery for just the cost of the battery itself.
 

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I plan to do a battery upgrade,from 51r to 35, by utilizing junkyard battery cable and box. There is 40 percent off this weekend at local pick n pull, and my current battery is about 3.5 years.

Will a bigger battery, higher crank current damage the starter?

Also for the battery tray, is there any Acura interchangeable parts, just in case I can't find a v6 accord in JY.
 

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A battery with a higher crank current is ABLE to deliver more current, if needed. Will also be able to deliver more power, more capacity (higher current for a longer time). But it is the load that determinate the current, not the battery. So no, you won't damage anything...
 
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Did the battery up grade 10 yrs. ago, starter will only pull (current) what is needed to start the car. Never had a dead battery again.
 

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I plan to do a battery upgrade,from 51r to 35, by utilizing junkyard battery cable and box. There is 40 percent off this weekend at local pick n pull, and my current battery is about 3.5 years.
If you get a spill-proof AGM battery, you do not need a tray or a box (by definition).
 

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I have a 2007 V6 6speed Accord with a Group 35 battery and typically get about 6 years out of them. My 2011 Acura TSX Wagon with I4 engine has the 51R and I got 5 years from the original 425 CCA battery but only 3 years from a replacement Interstate with higher 625 CCA. I do not believe the 51R is to save cost. I am guessing it is the 10lbs weight savings. I've read that getting more CCA from a physically small battery involves a greater number of thinner more closely spaced plates which can contribute to shorter service life. I ended up putting in a 600 CCA East Penn group 24 battery as a replacement. The TSX requires a new battery tray and hold down for proper fit. I expect it will last longer.
 

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Just did this today on my 2007 I4 SE. Ive gone through 3 51R's in the last 6 years. Costco replaced the 51R with a 35 without issue (was at 2.5 years on its 3 year warranty and paid the $6.50 difference). I thought about going with an AGM or event a 45F but this is what Costco had available. Started right up!
 

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I was going to create a new thread but my questions relate to a lot that was discussed here.

I believe these points:
2007 Accord 2.4L - 51R - 500CCA*
2007 V6 - Group 35 - 640CCA* (*typically)

Can someone explain what is the difference in installing a 24F battery? I think it's slightly longer than the 35?

It appears that the group 35 battery usually involves buying the V6 battery tray/box and associated parts - in order to look OEM and have everything fit.

Some ppl claim that, if you get an AGM battery, you don't need the extra hardware.

I am also wondering about the weight - is this because that the 7th gen (2006-2007, in this example?) has the same weight tolerance - other than the engine configurations - that it doesn't matter that the group 35 and 24F batteries are heavier than the 51R?

I am interested in doing a replacement - leaning towards the 35 - so, using the V6 hardware (tray, box, cable etc.) although I will consider the 24F if there's a good argument for it.

The AGM batteries are $50-$100 more expensive here - so, I am not sure whether to go with that. There's a good argument for it if you don't buy the extra hardware.

I want a new battery before winter starts. The current battery (51R) in the car has gone dead a couple of times (forget to turn of the headlights). I know it's not going to last much longer.
 

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Installed a Interstate AGM in my 2017 several months ago. They discharge @ a slower rate if left sitting but can charge up quicker. Weather these things are important or not is up to you. Johnson Controls makes many of the private label brands, car batteries are made to different price points, thus different tiers.
 

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Installed a Interstate AGM in my 2017 several months ago. They discharge @ a slower rate if left sitting but can charge up quicker. Weather these things are important or not is up to you. Johnson Controls makes many of the private label brands, car batteries are made to different price points, thus different tiers.
Yep, I know. Costco has some pretty good prices on batteries. Walmart - not bad and Crap Tire - decent batteries but much more expensive. Costco has good prices - Kirkland and Energizer (AGM). Just wondering if it's worth getting all the 'V6 hardware.' I think the Group 35 pick is good for the OEM but I tried to figure out what you need to do if you choose the 24F since the size is slightly different. JC makes or owns almost all the battery companies now - I think any of those stores I go to, the brand will be owned by JC.
 

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I watched your video and did some research. Findings?

Everstart Maxx battteries are supposedly made by Exide. I thought they were manufactured by JCI but it appears, they're made by Exide now. The only 2 batteries in the video that are available to me are the Everstart and Optima. The Optima AGM batteries are ridiculous prices here - over $300 - so are not contenders. Also, some reviewers don't like the red top ones.

The cheapest batteries here are probably the Costco Kirkland and Energizer AGM batteries - that's probably what I'll ultimately get (although, I don't have a Costco membership - a family member does, however). The only question is whether to spring for the AGM or not - it's $100 more to go with the AGM.

A couple of other notes: the Everstart batteries are supposedly (only) good for 3 years - many reviewers said their battery lasted 3 years. I am guessing those who said it lasted longer, had batteries when they were still made by JCI? Napa batteries are made by East Penn, I think. It was very difficult to find any batteries in my area made by East Penn. The Napa batteries are much more expensive than the Everstart and Costco (JCI) batteries. For e.g., a Group 35 AGM Napa battery here is over $300 (might as well buy an Optima at that price?). Whereas, the Energizer Group 35 AGM at Costco is priced at just over $200 (note, there is a core charge here in which there's an extra $10 or $20 added to the price).

I hope some of that was interesting? The other question remains, Group 35 or 24F and why? :)
 

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Johnson Controls Inc no longer makes batteries, they sold that off the battery division and it is now Clarios. As the 24f is slightly larger it will be a bit more CCA than a 35.

Optima were good back in the day, but quality control has been awful.

I have 2 Exide AGM batteries and the 24f is 5 years old and needs replacement as the sitting voltage has dropped to 12.3 and the CCA has dropped as well. It still starts the car just fine but I will replace it before it gets cold. I am going to get an Everstart AGM 24f from Walmart for $149.76


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The Everstart Maxx 24f I bought from Walmart was $97. Installed it myself and didn't even have to bring in my old battery (no core charge). It still had life left in it so I can use it to test things if needed.
 

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Johnson Controls Inc no longer makes batteries, they sold that off the battery division and it is now Clarios. As the 24f is slightly larger it will be a bit more CCA than a 35.

Optima were good back in the day, but quality control has been awful.

I have 2 Exide AGM batteries and the 24f is 5 years old and needs replacement as the sitting voltage has dropped to 12.3 and the CCA has dropped as well. It still starts the car just fine but I will replace it before it gets cold. I am going to get an Everstart AGM 24f from Walmart for $149.76

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Very interesting, thanks. Did you buy any 'extra' parts to fit the 24f? Most of the 'how-tos' or replacement instructions online seem to deal with a 51R to 35 switch (I assume, since, the 35 is the same Accord battery for the V6 so using the V6 parts makes it an easy swap). The 24f dimensions are similar - IIRC, it's a bit longer. I was wondering how that affects the fit.

Most of the 51R to 24f mods on here are for the 8th and 9th gens - I think most used V6 parts to do it so maybe it's the same with the 7th gen Accords? the 24f is slightly longer, I think? The tray must have a bit of extra length to accomodate a 24f then?

That's good you got 5 years. The Exide batteries are quite despised on bobtheoilguy site.

The Everstart Maxx 24f I bought from Walmart was $97. Installed it myself and didn't even have to bring in my old battery (no core charge). It still had life left in it so I can use it to test things if needed.
Same question - did you do anything differently when you did the install (since, it's not the stock size)?
I really hope to get a new battery before winter. I suspect the current 51R won't make it thru.
 

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I own a 9th gen, and I bought the V6 parts. You should be able to do the same on the 7th gen, just sub the 24f for the 35. They are close enough in size it will not matter.

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Same question - did you do anything differently when you did the install (since, it's not the stock size)?
I really hope to get a new battery before winter. I suspect the current 51R won't make it thru.
I simply discarded the battery box. The 24f is taller, so I needed a new tie-down, plus I decided to glue a piece of old hose to the frame towards the headlight to protect the battery just in case it slid that way for some reason. The positive and negative cables worked just fine. You might want a more professional install, but this works for me.
Oh, and I did buy a rubber mat to put under the battery, just for more grip to keep it in place. It's pretty secure where it is. What I like most is I can tell when starting this battery has a lot more juice to it.
 
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