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94 EX 4cyl/2003 EX V6
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2003 Accord EX V6 with about 175k miles. Something in the rear sway bar is broken. (I haven't yet checked it out, this just being reported at the last oil change that was done by a dealership when the car was borrowed to a friend long term) Have to keep costs down so hoping to do it myself - how hard is it to do?

I don't know whether it's the sway bar, or a suspension bushing that's broke, or what exactly just yet (I do not have the car here and haven't yet inspected, just know i'll have to bring tools to do it when i'm next visiting or picking it back up) but i'm thinking maybe just get a junkyard sway bar thats not broke... no clue whats involved in replacing a suspension bushing, and a little concerned about any spring steel with the loads often imposed and 6 foot cheater bars likely to be needed. Can someone quickie-walk me through the process of whats involved though so I know what i'm getting into first?
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
I would seriously doubt you broke the sway bar. More likely you broke the end links (that connect the sway bar to the actual suspension arms on each side of the car). Once you get under there you'll see it's not a difficult job. 2 end links, 2 bushings, and the sway bar. That's it. The only PITA is the end links you need an allen key to hold the stud while you undo the nut with a wrench...and the allen key hole loves to rust and strip. If nothing is broke then chances are the end link nuts just need to be tightened.

The sway bar doesn't have any stress on it unless one wheel is more/less compressed than the other.
 

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94 EX 4cyl/2003 EX V6
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Well... I did too! ; ) But I haven't been driving the car it's been 250 miles away from me and I haven't seen it since that was reported by the oil change mechanic who had it up. Whatever the mechanic told my friend was just reported as "sway bar broke" until I see the official paperwork or the car itself.

Assuming it's the end links or such, what is a good place to order the replacement part(s) and find what kind of wrench I need to get? (or might already have/inherited lots of pro mechanic tools from my dad even though I can't identify most of them : P)

Also is there a video of sway bar link replacement anywhere online or should it just be in a Chiltons? I'm not real good with mechanic stuff yet so seeing it done helps alot...
 

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2020 CBP Touring
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701 Posts
It's a pretty straightforward job like drowned said. If you have an impact it's a 20 minute job. (Milwaukee FUEL FTW) Check out a factory service manual if you need some pointers. I'm sure someone here has a PDF, I'm out of town of I'd send it to you.. Its a good investment if you plan on doing your own work.

I just got the rear links and hardware from 1hondaparts.com for about $16 a piece when I upgraded to the 17mm rear sway. The flange lock nuts and the hex nuts are less than a dollar each. I would replace the locking nuts. They are a dealership in Texas with excellent customer service and reasonable prices in my experience. I've used almost all of them at one point or another.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Here's how it's done on the 8G...probably pretty much the exact same process on the 7G:

https://0c281756c12507415a306e87917b46ac3a4abe2b.googledrive.com/host/0B3o2QOGLoJsfSGc4cE1EMmlkemM/2012_index.html

Step 1:
"Rear Stabilizer Link Removal/Installation (L4)"

Step 2:
"Rear Stabilizer Bar Replacement (L4)"


Tools you really just need a hex key (I don't know which size...I just keep trying different ones until one fits), and something like a 14mm wrench (end link nuts) and a 14mm socket (for the bushing brackets if you need to replace the entire sway bar). If the hex key part gets stripped....it's really a PITA to get the nut off. An impact can usually do it because it hits faster than the stud can spin without being held....but since you probably don't have that I've heard of people using a dremel to cut a slot so they can hold the stud with a flathead...also heard of grabbing the stud with vice grips, but that will screw up the threads and probably make it so you'll have to undo the nut 1/2" and then cut the stud off with a cutting disc.

I would probably order OEM. CollegeHillsHonda is a forum sponsor and I've not had issues with them. I've also used MajesticHonda and HondaPartsUnlimited. You can also just go to your local dealer and get the part from them, but they may not have it in stock.

Here's what an end link looks like. You can see the hex-key stud thing and the nuts. One end bolts to the sway bar, the other bolts to somewhere on the control arms on the car:



If you actually need to replace the sway bar...http://car-part.com/ -> 2003 Accord -> Stabilizer bar only -> Rear and you can sort by distance. You'll probably have a junkyard local that has one.
 

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94 EX 4cyl/2003 EX V6
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the responses, though i'm not sure if i'll understand it until I have it up. FWIW the car is able to sit for awhile now (he finally has his original car out of the collision shop) so when I get there i'm just going to jack it up and soak anything related in penetrating oil for DAYS before touching a thing hoping it will come off.

I only have simple hand tools available, no impact or air stuff. (I inherited that but the compressor needs service before I can use it and it'll be 250 miles away)

I'll take some pictures in case there's any confusion and post them if I can get up this weekend about whats broke and whether I have any remaining confusion. :)


Does anyone have an FSM pdf to share then? I can wait days if need be, the car doesn't need to be insta-fixed when I don't have a place to park it at home anyway. :- P
 

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Roll Tide!
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7,660 Posts
Don't get those cruddy-ass oem end links. Order the Moogs from your local parts house, RockAuto.com or Amazon. They (Moogs) are not only easier to install, they have grease fittings, AND they are easier to remove next time because there is no hex key doohickythingamajigg to strip out.
 

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94 EX 4cyl/2003 EX V6
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Anyone to second the Moog's over OEM?

On rockauto I see a HOLS1840/1842 and a K90342 'problem solver' not quite sure of the difference... assuming it is sway bar links is this the kind of part where i'd replace both (the other one preemptively) or just the broke side for now?
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
The reason I didn't recommend Moog even though I have them is because it does require a grease gun and routine greasing of the fittings. Don't think anyone makes one that doesn't use a hex key and doesn't require a grease fitting.
 

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Super Moderator
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6,302 Posts
The reason I didn't recommend Moog even though I have them is because it does require a grease gun and routine greasing of the fittings. Don't think anyone makes one that doesn't use a hex key and doesn't require a grease fitting.
Yes there is. I have Qsten end links in the rear. Does not require a hex key. The back side of the link is a a nut that you can grab open a regular open box end wrench.

 

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Registered
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645 Posts
Installed the Moog end links last week, and the build quality is really better than OEM, and also more robust.

I would also recommend them...
 
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