pics would be awesome.They really aren't hard.
One bolt going up through the front of the control arm, one through the back.
The hard part is getting the ball joint out, soak it for a while with some penetrating oil (I just used WD40). Remove the cotter pin, remove the nut, a few smacks with a hammer, and off it comes.
If you need a couple pics, I have the sub frame out, the control arm connects to it.
thanks Jim, take your time, I've got a couple weeks to go before I give this a shot. ill be sure to pick up those 3 bolts (OEM) before beginning.If you are replacing the bolts, then get the Honda ones (the one through the back bushing is "scored". (couldn't think of a better word for it.)
If I get home in time tomorrow, I'll get a couple of pics (if not then, I'll post Saturday morning). The sub frame is out of the car, so it should be much easier to see. I'll just loosely bolt one of the control arms on it and show the two mounting bolts and the roll bar end. The spindle and ball joint are still on the car, so I'll have to show the two separate.
I still have to press in the new bushings into the driver's side, but the passenger side is done (I just got bushings, not whole arms). Without a press, you would never get those things out, it took 10 tons of force to remove the bushings.
In the diagram, the two bolts are numbered 17 and 18. The only other bolt you have to remove is labeled 5 in the diagram (roll bar end link). It is easy to remove, but confusing. The end will start to turn when you loosen the nut, you will then have to hold it with an allen wrench to remove the nut. The nut on the ball joint will probably come right off (both of mine did).
actually, that part (#5) is 51321-SDA-A05 a $20 piece... do you think this will have to be replaced?
Hey guys. Finally got a chance to tackle this today, but I broke TWO wrenches on getting the bolt off that connects the control arm to the strut. (where Jim is pointing in his first pic). I still wasn't able to get it off. Used multiple douses off Pb blaster. Even used my floor jack to push the wrench, didn't work. Do I have any options at this point? Is torching them the only solution? Could a power tool work?
I did this job about two months ago. I had to sawzall all those through bolts. they are fused to the rubber bushing. the problem with sawzalling is that you run the risk of cutting the bushing. I replaced everything.....a complete front end lobotomy.Hey guys. Finally got a chance to tackle this today, but I broke TWO wrenches on getting the bolt off that connects the control arm to the strut. (where Jim is pointing in his first pic). I still wasn't able to get it off. Used multiple douses off Pb blaster. Even used my floor jack to push the wrench, didn't work. Do I have any options at this point? Is torching them the only solution? Could a power tool work?
If the nut is off, it should punch out. I used a hammer to knock it out once the nut was off. The bolt is not made to spin in the bushing. I replaced all the bushings in mine, but still had no damage to the original. I had one of the front ones bad, so I replaced all the bushings in the lower control arms (it does require a press to replace the bushings).ugh.. i'm back, round 2 was unsuccessful
So that bolt that Jim is pointing to is still in there. I attacked it with an impact wrench, it moved slightly, but kept stopping. I soon realized that the RUBBER BUSHING was spinning. I torched the hell out of the bolt/rubber, but no luck. The bolt spins easily now, but so does the bushing (very little rubber remains), so the bolt doesnt stand a chance at threading out of the fork like I need it to. Tried everything I could think of in terms of holding the bushing with pliers and turning the nut, but it's totally locked up. Is the next and only step using a reciprocating saw to cut through the bushing/bolt? If I do it, will the bolt/bushing get stuck in the fork?