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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. My bushings are shot and the ride is becoming quite bumpy... I'd like to replace the LCAs myself, but cant seem to find a great tutorial out there. Does anyone know of one?
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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They really aren't hard.

One bolt going up through the front of the control arm, one through the back.

The hard part is getting the ball joint out, soak it for a while with some penetrating oil (I just used WD40). Remove the cotter pin, remove the nut, a few smacks with a hammer, and off it comes.

If you need a couple pics, I have the sub frame out, the control arm connects to it.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They really aren't hard.

One bolt going up through the front of the control arm, one through the back.

The hard part is getting the ball joint out, soak it for a while with some penetrating oil (I just used WD40). Remove the cotter pin, remove the nut, a few smacks with a hammer, and off it comes.

If you need a couple pics, I have the sub frame out, the control arm connects to it.

Jim
pics would be awesome.

i read the bolts should be replaced, using this image: http://www.hondapartsnow.com/diagrams/small/front-lower-arm-465525.png

looks like the bolts would be 17 and 18. i'd get replacements, but would you suggest any other nuts/bolts that'd need to be replaced?
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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If you are replacing the bolts, then get the Honda ones (the one through the back bushing is "scored". (couldn't think of a better word for it.)

If I get home in time tomorrow, I'll get a couple of pics (if not then, I'll post Saturday morning). The sub frame is out of the car, so it should be much easier to see. I'll just loosely bolt one of the control arms on it and show the two mounting bolts and the roll bar end. The spindle and ball joint are still on the car, so I'll have to show the two separate.

I still have to press in the new bushings into the driver's side, but the passenger side is done (I just got bushings, not whole arms). Without a press, you would never get those things out, it took 10 tons of force to remove the bushings.

In the diagram, the two bolts are numbered 17 and 18. The only other bolt you have to remove is labeled 5 in the diagram (roll bar end link). It is easy to remove, but confusing. The end will start to turn when you loosen the nut, you will then have to hold it with an allen wrench to remove the nut. The nut on the ball joint will probably come right off (both of mine did).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you are replacing the bolts, then get the Honda ones (the one through the back bushing is "scored". (couldn't think of a better word for it.)

If I get home in time tomorrow, I'll get a couple of pics (if not then, I'll post Saturday morning). The sub frame is out of the car, so it should be much easier to see. I'll just loosely bolt one of the control arms on it and show the two mounting bolts and the roll bar end. The spindle and ball joint are still on the car, so I'll have to show the two separate.

I still have to press in the new bushings into the driver's side, but the passenger side is done (I just got bushings, not whole arms). Without a press, you would never get those things out, it took 10 tons of force to remove the bushings.

In the diagram, the two bolts are numbered 17 and 18. The only other bolt you have to remove is labeled 5 in the diagram (roll bar end link). It is easy to remove, but confusing. The end will start to turn when you loosen the nut, you will then have to hold it with an allen wrench to remove the nut. The nut on the ball joint will probably come right off (both of mine did).
thanks Jim, take your time, I've got a couple weeks to go before I give this a shot. ill be sure to pick up those 3 bolts (OEM) before beginning.
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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actually, that part (#5) is 51321-SDA-A05 a $20 piece... do you think this will have to be replaced?

There are nuts on either end of it. One end connects to the control arm, the other to the roll bar. You can replace them if you want, but mine weren't worn or broken, so they'll stay. They are tricky to remove,,,,until you see the allen fitting to hold it.:lmao: I'll get a close up of that for you. I must have messed with it for 20 minutes before I found that (my eyes aren't what they used to be).
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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First remove the brakes/caliper and support the caliper up out of the way.

Then soak the ball joint with penetrating oil (I actually used wd40). And remove the cotter pin and nut (don't completely remove this nut yet). This pic shows the ball joint nut loose. My hand is holding the nut on the bottom. (In this pic, I actually put the passenger side control arm on the drivers side to show this part.)

Then Remove the bolt and nut holding the strut to the control arm. (finger on the bolt). Pull the bolt out.

Hopefully that took a little time, so the oil could penetrate down through the ball joint "bolt". I've used ball joint removal tools, but they tend to damage the boot over the ball joint. I just hit both sides of the control arm with a hammer around the area holding the ball joint. It will eventually drop off the ball joint. Then you can remove the ball joint nut completely.
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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Remove the anti-roll bar end link. It will initially come loose with a 14 mm wrench, but you won't get the nut off unless you use an allen wrench to hold the bolt while you turn the nut.
 

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I <3 My Honda
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Awesome pics for helping out the OP, 74f100 - Thanks :)

OP - you can also refer to my How-To: Install Coilover Suspension thread for a few more pics w/ the subframe and LCAs on the vehicle. It's really an easy job, as long as you don't run into the same seized bolt(s) problem I did that required me to torch them off lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey guys. Finally got a chance to tackle this today, but I broke TWO wrenches on getting the bolt off that connects the control arm to the strut. (where Jim is pointing in his first pic). I still wasn't able to get it off. Used multiple douses off Pb blaster. Even used my floor jack to push the wrench, didn't work. Do I have any options at this point? Is torching them the only solution? Could a power tool work?
 

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If you are willing to put everything back, put everything back and spray pb blaster for a whole week everyday before you attempt to break it loose again. This helps A LOT and is what I did when I went to replace the anti-sway bar end links. Or you can try torching. But you need to clean off the pb blaster first because the lubricant catches fire fast.
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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Hey guys. Finally got a chance to tackle this today, but I broke TWO wrenches on getting the bolt off that connects the control arm to the strut. (where Jim is pointing in his first pic). I still wasn't able to get it off. Used multiple douses off Pb blaster. Even used my floor jack to push the wrench, didn't work. Do I have any options at this point? Is torching them the only solution? Could a power tool work?

I used an impact gun,,,,,those appeared to be zinc or something plated. Mine weren't oxidized at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ugh.. i'm back, round 2 was unsuccessful



So that bolt that Jim is pointing to is still in there. I attacked it with an impact wrench, it moved slightly, but kept stopping. I soon realized that the RUBBER BUSHING was spinning. I torched the hell out of the bolt/rubber, but no luck. The bolt spins easily now, but so does the bushing (very little rubber remains), so the bolt doesnt stand a chance at threading out of the fork like I need it to. Tried everything I could think of in terms of holding the bushing with pliers and turning the nut, but it's totally locked up. Is the next and only step using a reciprocating saw to cut through the bushing/bolt? If I do it, will the bolt/bushing get stuck in the fork?
 

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Wow. Now I like living in cali. All those bolts come off with a regular 1/2" ratchet.

What if you grind off the bolt? For the strut?
 

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Sawzall

Hey guys. Finally got a chance to tackle this today, but I broke TWO wrenches on getting the bolt off that connects the control arm to the strut. (where Jim is pointing in his first pic). I still wasn't able to get it off. Used multiple douses off Pb blaster. Even used my floor jack to push the wrench, didn't work. Do I have any options at this point? Is torching them the only solution? Could a power tool work?
I did this job about two months ago. I had to sawzall all those through bolts. they are fused to the rubber bushing. the problem with sawzalling is that you run the risk of cutting the bushing. I replaced everything.....a complete front end lobotomy.
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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ugh.. i'm back, round 2 was unsuccessful


So that bolt that Jim is pointing to is still in there. I attacked it with an impact wrench, it moved slightly, but kept stopping. I soon realized that the RUBBER BUSHING was spinning. I torched the hell out of the bolt/rubber, but no luck. The bolt spins easily now, but so does the bushing (very little rubber remains), so the bolt doesnt stand a chance at threading out of the fork like I need it to. Tried everything I could think of in terms of holding the bushing with pliers and turning the nut, but it's totally locked up. Is the next and only step using a reciprocating saw to cut through the bushing/bolt? If I do it, will the bolt/bushing get stuck in the fork?
If the nut is off, it should punch out. I used a hammer to knock it out once the nut was off. The bolt is not made to spin in the bushing. I replaced all the bushings in mine, but still had no damage to the original. I had one of the front ones bad, so I replaced all the bushings in the lower control arms (it does require a press to replace the bushings).
 
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