Drive Accord Honda Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

Car is a 05 4Cyl MT.
It's tough to tell through the very well done write up posts that have been done - due to time passed since the original posts - to tell what part numbers and brands are still relevant. Seems 7th gen parts are priced differently from other gens and some (moog ball joints for example seem to be failing left and right, no pun intended.)

Getting ready to break down and bite the bullet on a new throttle body - (only code is p0507) idle still hanging around 900-1000 rpm after multiple people have checked for leaks, replaced TPS, IACV, PCV, ecm flash and idle relearn. After a trip to the dealer I was told throttle body replacement would be next step (See previous posts). Kind of impressed how much info is out there just to have none be solutions to this problem.

The cable TBs for this gen seem to be marked around dealer price and having a tough time finding a cost efficient OEM replacement. Electric TBs are everywhere for 2-300 less.

2nd part is lower ball joints, OEM is marked up to 120$ per vs 60$ a few years ago. Any reliable aftermarket joints? Seems there's confusion between who supplies Honda with these and have seen a few brands thrown out there but couldn't find a defining answer to the supplier.

Correction - OEM for TB wants 770$ and Ball joint is now 150$. These people know these a 17 year old cars right? Wild.

Any and all info including other suggestions regarding the slightly high idle is appreciated. Thank you
 

· Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Get a used TB from salvage yard or clean yours, make sure it is properly adjusted an cable and it's hardware are in good shape.
Cables are adjusted. High idle is with plate fully closed. I personally cleaned it once and then paid someone to do the job as well, no luck there. The plate was previously sticking but seems corrosion free when I pull the tube off a month or so after it was cleaned.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,637 Posts
Be sure the throttle body is not worn at the pivot point. That is where you can have issues

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
2003 Accord EX-L, 167K, 2.4L, 5spd, Sun Roof. First Honda owned vehicle, bought as a gas saver
Joined
·
24 Posts
Give me your address and I'll mail you the one off of my 2003. I got a junkyard one because mine had the cruise control plastic broken where the cable goes. It might need your idle air controller put on, but i'll send all that I have if you want it.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: TX Accord

· Registered
Joined
·
3,279 Posts
Yeah the balls on ebay OEM are a hair over 100, lol. Still high, but I personally wouldn't use anything else after past experience.
 

· Prefers to shift his own gears
Joined
·
1,067 Posts
I used to get OEM parts from hondapartsnow.com then I found that Jim White Honda was a bit cheaper. parts.jimwhitehonda.com
Speaking from past experience with more than one set of Moog lower ball joints on these cars - do not use them.
I'm OEM only on the ball joints. Too important of a part on these cars to run anything besides OEM IMO.

Great TB suggestions and a very nice offer from @Shrimpy
 

· Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Give me your address and I'll mail you the one off of my 2003. I got a junkyard one because mine had the cruise control plastic broken where the cable goes. It might need your idle air controller put on, but i'll send all that I have if you want it.
I appreciate the offer, I'm going to futz around with the vaccum lines the next couple of days. This has been a long project that I occasionally have stretches of time to work on. If that doesn't work out I'll gladly take you up on your offer.
Yeah the balls on ebay OEM are a hair over 100, lol. Still high, but I personally wouldn't use anything else after past experience.
I used to get OEM parts from hondapartsnow.com then I found that Jim White Honda was a bit cheaper. parts.jimwhitehonda.com
Speaking from past experience with more than one set of Moog lower ball joints on these cars - do not use them.
I'm OEM only on the ball joints. Too important of a part on these cars to run anything besides OEM IMO.
Any links for me here? I'd do both if I could find if I saved a hundred on them. I feel the same, I plan on using the vehicle regularly and if I were to pay the premium between parts it'd be stuff like the joints that can leave you on the side of the road with a wheel turned 90*.
I used to get OEM parts from hondapartsnow.com then I found that Jim White Honda was a bit cheaper. parts.jimwhitehonda.com
Speaking from past experience with more than one set of Moog lower ball joints on these cars - do not use them.
I'm OEM only on the ball joints. Too important of a part on these cars to run anything besides OEM IMO.

Great TB suggestions and a very nice offer from @Shrimpy
I'll check them out. I figure anything farther away will probably cost as much to ship as it will to pick up locally though..


For you all - I actually called Honda and asked why this stuff was so impressively expensive - and I was told by the rep "the dealers set their own prices but we recommend what they should charge".. checked the site she directed me to and apparently Honda is recommending the 870$ TB and 150$ ball joint pricing to the dealers. I'm assuming this is a tactic to price us out of cars we own and an attempt to get us to purchase never vehicles from them - as always.

Could have sworn they were 600 bucks a few months ago. Oh well. Let's see where we get. Trying to put a smoke machine together tomorrow to fog the vaccum lines and hopefully figure this out at a lower price.

Thanks for the replies.[/QUOTE]
 

· Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
might have a small vacuum leak somewhere off the intake manifold or a tear in the intake boot going to the throttle body. take it off and check the underside of the boot
I actually just took a canister of propane to it yesterday and as far as I could tell I couldn't find an idle change anywhere.

Be sure the throttle body is not worn at the pivot point. That is where you can have issues

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
When you say worn are you talking about the plate not closing completely? Any way to test this? Anywhere I should be checking other than hoses/intake tube/egr components?

I'm honestly shocked nothing came up and assumed both places didn't thoroughly check for vac leaks.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top