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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 09 accord coupe with navi, I like the clean setup that the stock subwoofer has, and I didnt want to loose the trunk space to a sub, so I wanted to replace mine.
I couldn't find any info on the factory sub, and very little info on the speakers, so I just ordered some. I got a Pioneer TS-SW841D free air sub, some Polk audio momo 2 way speakers, and a lot of Dynamat. When I got it I took apart the trunk liner and removed the factory sub only to find out that the pioneer sub does not fit. The pioneer sub is too thick and the factory mount has very sloped sides so it does not fit in beyond a half inch. (I later hooked it up was reassured that it was okay that it didn't fit because it sounded terrible (maybe not enough power, i don't know)). The speakers however, fit great and sound amazing, and the dynamat blocks a lot of road noise and makes the speakers bass sound much more pronounced. I was still distraught on what to do about the sub because the stock one sounds pretty tinny.

I decided to forget the free air sub and order a sub that I thought would sound good. I found it in the JL audio W8. To install it I had to make the factory sub opening a little bigger (less than .5"), which I did with a dremel, and then the JL sub just dropped in. I could immediately notice the difference- it sounds fantastic. like the trunk is its box and it hits hard and crisp- even with just the stock amp.
If you are looking to replace the sub, go with a regular sub, not a free air sub. Be ready to spend several hours on it, but when you are done, the payoff is great and it really improves the sound of your system for a low price.
 

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Moogle!
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Wow, how long did that take to install? nice work!
this will get moved to audio section though :)
 

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Asher,

Can you post pics with everything back together please?

Thanks!
 

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Vtahk didnt kick in
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broooooooo nice job.

can i ask you a big favor, how did you remove the rear shelf? i have dynamat left over which i want to cover the shelf with, please lee me know
 

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Looks pretty clean. Good job man.
 

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wow... real nice...truly admire the work... i'm gonna have to change my speaker eventually for sure... i need some extra slap for sure as the sounds is pretty weak

don't think i'm gonna do the trunk setup anymore.... again great job.. you laid the foundation and will make the job for me a lot easier
 

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Were you using external amp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The JL 8W7 is a great speaker, and I considered it. The reason I decided against it was because the 8W7 is about 8" deep and I was going for a better sound but wanted it as discreet as possible. So, the 8W3v3-4 is a little less than 5" deep and isn't really noticeable in the trunk.
Also, the 8W7 has a much higher RMS rating and I was worried that it would not be getting enough power unless I used a separate amp for it. I am sure the 8W7 would sound great though.
I will post more pics from inside the trunk tomorrow.
 

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DrivesTooFast.
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well i was going to try a setup like this but my 12" rockford p3 and box and amp(mounted the amp on the side - btw its a bazooka 500w) fits perfectly in the slot like trunk, like where u push all the way to the back of the backseat and its a perfect fit. I enjoy the way it looks but this might sounds better, and that is alot of dynomat. lol.
 

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broooooooo nice job.

can i ask you a big favor, how did you remove the rear shelf? i have dynamat left over which i want to cover the shelf with, please lee me know
I want to take off the rear shelf myself too but don't know where to start:dunno:

Does the rear shelf panel hit the sub and speakers? looks like it sticks out alot...
 

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Keepin this one stock...
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Wow, that's interesting.

Seeing as I was thinking about buying that Pioneer sub, I would like some more info.

What exactly didn't fit with it?
When you say you tested it, how exactly did you do that, in the sub hole?
Why did you go W3 and not W1?
 

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8th Gen Audio Expert
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well the w3's traditionally take a max of about 350 to 400 watts max which is reasonable for the stock system remember that the oem amp is only putting out about 150 MAX power so although the amp will push it, its still wayyy wayyy underpowered... putting the w-7 would be like cutting your law with a nail clipper vs. a weed whacker... Being that I have had and sold JL in the past as an official dealer.. I think the w3 is still overkill... Id be quicker to recommend the w1 series a little less money and closer to matching the power remember this one aspect when you turn up the system( like 75 percent, anything higher is "trying to push the amp harder" it may get louder but the efficiency of the power degrades... degrading quality in power will blow your speakers faster than over-powering them...dirty power over heats the coils and causes the voice coil to burn up hence why youll see guys put 1000 watts to a 750 watt speaker and play them alllllll day long without blowing... distortion is a dirty thing....
and BTW Manville at JL does NOT recommend to run these subs Infinite Baffle they are not efficient as free air subs
 

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ol' school SQ
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well the w3's traditionally take a max of about 350 to 400 watts max which is reasonable for the stock system remember that the oem amp is only putting out about 150 MAX power so although the amp will push it, its still wayyy wayyy underpowered... putting the w-7 would be like cutting your law with a nail clipper vs. a weed whacker... Being that I have had and sold JL in the past as an official dealer.. I think the w3 is still overkill... Id be quicker to recommend the w1 series a little less money and closer to matching the power remember this one aspect when you turn up the system( like 75 percent, anything higher is "trying to push the amp harder" it may get louder but the efficiency of the power degrades... degrading quality in power will blow your speakers faster than over-powering them...dirty power over heats the coils and causes the voice coil to burn up hence why youll see guys put 1000 watts to a 750 watt speaker and play them alllllll day long without blowing... distortion is a dirty thing....
and BTW Manville at JL does NOT recommend to run these subs Infinite Baffle they are not efficient as free air subs
I'd have to agree w/every word of this.

I see dynamat and all I can think about is shredded hands...OUCH! Peel, stick, repeat...
 

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8th Gen Audio Expert
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I'd have to agree w/every word of this.

I see dynamat and all I can think about is shredded hands...OUCH! Peel, stick, repeat...
<-----------250 Sq Ft of Accumat extreme in my 8th gen. Not a single cut on my hands... LOL its called a razor knife, gloves and a rubber accumat / wall paper roller and for the hard to get to spaces LMAO a table and tea spoon ( handle in the palm fingers in the spoon, press down and youre good..... for those considering doing damping... Im the first to tell you i've had both accumat from scosche and dynamat extreme... (been sponsored by both) and whats interesting is the accumat is a little thicker and does the job as well and maybe even a little better than dyna- and is a little cheaper... if you are considering damping make sure you look at the thickness when comparing... there are . 46 Mil . 65 mil and .23 mil products... make sure you get the thickest one to eliminate having to do layer over layer over layer over layer...... having done both I can say Accumat seems to be the better bang for the buck... Fat mat is Ok but have heard mixed reviews from the pros about it..... a bulk pack will average between 125 to 200 +/- shipping depending on where you get it... prepare on the average for a single layer all over the 8th gen trunk, pit, floordoors side quarter panels etc..
FOOTNOTE!!!!!
adding damping increases the density meaning the panel is stronger, and will actually keep alot of those mini pin and micro dents from occuring... :)
 

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8th Gen Audio Expert
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door dings little rock hits stuff like that.... you know, lol those little annoying dents that drive you friggen nuts!!!... lol
 
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