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Turbo lag
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Hey everyone, this is my first post so bear with me. Ive been crawling around on this and other forums and I cant seem to find a definitive answer... Will the 350Z Brembo (12.8") rotors work or do I need to send mine back and get a set of the Maxima (12.6") rotors? My car is currently at a shop so I dont have access to it or I would just mock it up. Thanks in advance...
Also, Im running 18" wheels, heres a link, hope that helps

Your better bet is to get the Maxima rotors. I mocked mine up again a few weeks ago with Maxima rotors and they worked perfectly.
 

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Your better bet is to get the Maxima rotors. I mocked mine up again a few weeks ago with Maxima rotors and they worked perfectly.
Thanks for the input. I should have my car back in a few days (I hope) and I will see if I can get everything mocked up. I would really like to use the rotors I have and I will make some minor modifications if needed. Honestly, the only real test and answer to my own question is to try to install them and see what happens. I will post an update and some photos if everything works out.
 

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Well I mocked my brakes up and they fit fine except that I needed a wheel spacer and some wheel studs. So I bought some and then I went to install them and they suddenly dont fit anymore. The rotor is contacting the caliper. I am using the 350Z Brembo rotors. So I called Fastbrakes and they said to grind a little off the caliper... Not sure how I feel about that but I suppose I can give it a try. More updates this weekend... And hopefully some pics of installed BBK!
 

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Turbo lag
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Well I mocked my brakes up and they fit fine except that I needed a wheel spacer and some wheel studs. So I bought some and then I went to install them and they suddenly dont fit anymore. The rotor is contacting the caliper. I am using the 350Z Brembo rotors. So I called Fastbrakes and they said to grind a little off the caliper... Not sure how I feel about that but I suppose I can give it a try. More updates this weekend... And hopefully some pics of installed BBK!
Hmmm, so that's how the 350Z rotors fits... You don't need to grind off much, but this kinda proves that there's still problems that exist with this conversion. I really need to find a set of rotors with the Maxima/Altima offset and thickness but is the 350z diameter to work perfectly. If you have to grind off part of the caliper, it's not really centered on the caliper either. Not that it matter's.
 

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Ok so I finally managed to install the kit. With quite a bit of modifications. However, I now have zero brakes until the pedal is more than halfway down. I bled the heck outta all 4 calipers. My only thought is that somehow there is air trapped in the master cylinder. Has anyone else run into this problem? Also, when the brakes do finally engage, they work pretty well...Hoping someone out there can help...
 

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Turbo lag
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Ok so I finally managed to install the kit. With quite a bit of modifications. However, I now have zero brakes until the pedal is more than halfway down. I bled the heck outta all 4 calipers. My only thought is that somehow there is air trapped in the master cylinder. Has anyone else run into this problem? Also, when the brakes do finally engage, they work pretty well...Hoping someone out there can help...
Are you sure it is leak free? Historically, the caliper is known to leak at the banjo bolt because the caliper was designed for hard lines and not a banjo bolt. Supposedly, fastbrakes improved the kit in the recent years and is no longer a problem, but I'd check just to be sure.
 

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Are you sure it is leak free? Historically, the caliper is known to leak at the banjo bolt because the caliper was designed for hard lines and not a banjo bolt. Supposedly, fastbrakes improved the kit in the recent years and is no longer a problem, but I'd check just to be sure.
Interesting. I actually thought the same thing. I checked one of them and it did have a very small amount of moisture around the banjo. Nothing that would cause the pedal to sink though. Not even enough to drip. Also, the fluid level is consistent. And the brakes work pretty good once they finally engage. I had to make a LOT of modifications. Including installing the adapters backwards since that's the only way they would work. Therefore I had to grind down the outboard pads so they would fit because the calipers are about 2mm offset. Im gonna try bleeding the master cylinder and see if that helps at all. Still need to put finishing touches on them, paint, etc. but they're on and looking sick!
 

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Well... I hope there is still someone left out there who is paying attention to this thread lol. Anyway, I FINALLY finished the install after much extra labor, blood and gallons of sweat (no tears though) they are permanently installed and functioning mostly as they should. I had an issue after bleeding all 4, two different times, where the pedal was entirely inconsistent. Sometimes, it barely needed a tap, other times, it felt normal. After checking everything, I found it was due to an improper adjustment of the brake light switch, not allowing the pedal to return all the way. That was a major hassle but they seem relatively powerful now. Still havent given them a proper test but I plan on it when the roads dry up and snow is melted. I snapped a couple quick pics to illustrate just how close they are to the inside of my wheels, running 8mm spacer. Less than 0.5mm. Possibly a sheet of standard white paper but not more than that. I have some final touches to do as far as painting but I hope someone on here admires them lol. And yes, I WILL be washing the car asap!
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Turbo lag
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Well... I hope there is still someone left out there who is paying attention to this thread lol. Anyway, I FINALLY finished the install after much extra labor, blood and gallons of sweat (no tears though) they are permanently installed and functioning mostly as they should. I had an issue after bleeding all 4, two different times, where the pedal was entirely inconsistent. Sometimes, it barely needed a tap, other times, it felt normal. After checking everything, I found it was due to an improper adjustment of the brake light switch, not allowing the pedal to return all the way. That was a major hassle but they seem relatively powerful now. Still havent given them a proper test but I plan on it when the roads dry up and snow is melted. I snapped a couple quick pics to illustrate just how close they are to the inside of my wheels, running 8mm spacer. Less than 0.5mm. Possibly a sheet of standard white paper but not more than that. I have some final touches to do as far as painting but I hope someone on here admires them lol. And yes, I WILL be washing the car asap! View attachment 528165 View attachment 528166
Looks good, still waiting for the weather to warmup before installing mine. Mine also came with the original RL hardline, so we'll see how that goes and if it makes any difference in brake feel.
 
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NAallDAY
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If you were to do this on an 8th gen, can you use the stock v6 wheels? Or do you have to use spacers with those wheels? I've debated doing this swap, I just was never sure if I could do it without spacers. Nice calipers BTW guys! :cool:
 

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Turbo lag
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If you were to do this on an 8th gen, can you use the stock v6 wheels? Or do you have to use spacers with those wheels? I've debated doing this swap, I just was never sure if I could do it without spacers. Nice calipers BTW guys! :cool:
Nope, the only stock Honda wheels that would fit are the 3rd gen TL Type-S waffle wheels.
 
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Well I just installed EBC yellow stuff pads and another brand new set of identical rotors. Now, if I could just figure out why it pulls to the right under hard braking, I'd be set... I have bled the brakes until im blue in the face. anyone else have any thoughts?
 

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Turbo lag
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Well I just installed EBC yellow stuff pads and another brand new set of identical rotors. Now, if I could just figure out why it pulls to the right under hard braking, I'd be set... I have bled the brakes until im blue in the face. anyone else have any thoughts?
Does both side feels the same when you go spin them by hand?
 

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Any suspension wear? I assume alignment is fine but, under stress a bushing or something else might give yielding the pull you mention.
 
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