Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, i couldn't find anything but are there any common issues i might have looked over with these cars?


I just purchased a 03 EX 2.4L auto sedan a week ago, one car owner, dealer maintained for the most part, owner had alot of maintenance paperwork...

Anyways car has 126k on it right now, I drove about 2hrs away to buy it, looked it over real good, test drove it with radioi off and air off so i could hear everything, I even had to drive it 2hrs back home everything was fine, car is super duper clean!

anyways I haven't even put 150miles on it since owning it, and now it sounds like it has a faint rod knock, if i turn off my radio and air i can hear it, oil seems to be good, I put 87 in it originally, but have since filled it up with 93..


It definetly goes up with rpms but dies off above say 3500k its not there.

I just don't see how my 120k honda could have rodknock if it was taken care of, i've had 350k honda's before! I've also had rodknock on a car and it started off sounding like this lol..


any suggestions? at first i figured if it was rodknock i was going to be replacing the block anyways so i've probably put 70 80 miles on it since then, it hasn't gotten worse or better..

If this was piston slap it should fade away once the car warms up right?

thanks

=VIDEO'S OF SOUND BELOW=


Driving clip 1 (longer clip)


Driving clip 2 (shorter maybe slightly cleaner audio)


Hood popped, warming up

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
could be lots of things.....i doubt it is rod knock. Do you have a loss of power? If not its not rod knock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
could be lots of things.....i doubt it is rod knock. Do you have a loss of power? If not its not rod knock.


nah definetly not, it seems to run like normal..



i'll try and post up a video clip, do you think switching 5-30 would make it any quieter? I know these engines are supposed to do fine with factory recommended 5-20 but is anyone switching to 5-30 with higher milage?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
Maybe pop the hood and rev the motor to isolate the noise? Could be anything but I doubt rod knock. I know my tach makes a knock noise (vague cable noise)at idle but goes away and does not change with reeving the motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Does is sound like it's coming from the upper or lower end? Upper end...maybe it's the valves. Were they ever adjusted? I'm assuming they were since you said it was dealer maintained.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,420 Posts
Is it louder when cold? It could have a collapsed piston skirt, which will allow the piston(s) that are making noise to slap even when hot.

I'd need a very good quality sound clip to tell without it in front of me.

If you rev it to around 2500, and very gently accelerate, decel and gently accelerate again with NO load, can you hear it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Hey guys, well after listening a little more, i think it's coming from the head, i swear it sounded like it's coming from the bottom end but sometimse it's hard to pinpoint i guess, putting my ear near the valve cover, i think there's a definite chance it's the head..

Also i noticed when i took the oil cap off with the car running, there was a large amount of airflow coming out, way more then any other car i've had..

Yeah i'm not sure if it's ever had a valve adjustment i don't have any paperwork for that, mostly oil changes, and some normal mileage services..

thanks for the replys though fellas

actually sounds alot like this, and same rpm range as this guy as well.. except unlike this guy i have stock exhaust and intake still..

sounds exactly like this though, his might be slightly more audible

 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,420 Posts
His sounds sure like a rod knock. That "floating" irregular knock. Could remotely be a carbon chunk being beaten by the piston every time it comes up to tdc.

His "shop vac" air intake masks it too much to hear it at idle.

On the K20 in the Type-S it's somewhat common, their oil use combined with owner's missed shifts usually end up with that issue. I've seen too many blown up by low oil level and over revving.

You can try the carbon thing, by pulling all 4 plugs, putting several ounces of something like Seafoam in the cylinders and letting them sit for several hours. It's best if the motor is somewhat warm when you do this.

After it has sat, stuff rags into the plug holes, then cover the top of the motor with another bunch or rags and something heavy. Crank the motor over to push out the liquid. Then put the plugs in and start it. It should smoke very heavily and stop, see if the noise is reduced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Engine tap noise (video)

Ok so when i first heard this noise i freaked out and thought i was starting to get rodknock, I really don't think it's rodknock now but could still use some opinions.

here's some videos, you can really only hear the sound if you turn off the air vents and radio, I think the in car video the sound is a little more audible in person, but if you turn up the volume you can hear it good every time i accelerate.

it seems to mainly be under load, if i rev it in N, you can hear it breifly from 1500rpm to 2k only, but driving it's at every rpm..

Driving clip 1 (longer clip)


Driving clip 2 (shorter maybe slightly cleaner audio)

Hood popped, warming up

 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,420 Posts
Sounds like collapsed piston(s) skirts to me. Piston slap.

That diesel like sounds is unmistakable. When cold it's a lot louder, correct?

A couple of things I was thinking:

The car saw a lot of continuous high speed/high rev operation in its life. With the age and mileage I'd really not expect it to have done that though.

The car was overheated at some point in its life. Does it use any oil at this point?

The last thing, does the car warm up quickly? Even though the gauge may read "normal" it could be too cold. Running too cold all the time can cause it to never stop rattling as the block won't warm enough to get the piston fit to what it should be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
i have an 05 accord ex 5spd and i have like the same sound but onli when accelerating if its in neutral and rev it u dont hear it... but its like a clicking sound and its goes out....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Sounds like collapsed piston(s) skirts to me. Piston slap.

That diesel like sounds is unmistakable. When cold it's a lot louder, correct?

A couple of things I was thinking:

The car saw a lot of continuous high speed/high rev operation in its life. With the age and mileage I'd really not expect it to have done that though.

The car was overheated at some point in its life. Does it use any oil at this point?

The last thing, does the car warm up quickly? Even though the gauge may read "normal" it could be too cold. Running too cold all the time can cause it to never stop rattling as the block won't warm enough to get the piston fit to what it should be.

Hey Fred, definetly appreciate the input and trying to help me diagnosis the issue, i know its hard through just hearing a vid..


I would think it hasn't been reved high alot in it's life, but i mean i guess i wouldn't know, It was a older couple i bought the car from (original owners) the husband told me he was pretty anal about maintenance,
my carfax shows it was just at the Honda dealer for an oil change and factory recommended services at 119,850 miles, it now has 126k on it, and oil change date sticker on the windsheild from some lube shop saying it was done at 125k and some change and not due again until 128k



I still havn't even put 200 miles on it since owning it though, when i test drove it and drove it two hours home it was mint, even the next day i driving it around and it made no noises.. it started a few days after owning it..


Oil level is right where it should be, and the color looks pretty consistent for what the oil change decal says..

I would say it warms up in a resonable amount of time, maybe 5 mins to reach normal tempature.


I dunno maybe the issue was there when i bought it and since it was a warm day i didn't notice it, and now the cold weather has been sticking around and it's more audible?


I dunno, ****s i looked at so many accords for about a month or so, but all of them had some little issues i didn't like, i finally found one that looks so well taken care of, my interior/exterior look MINT, it was garage kept as well..



thanks though guys.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,322 Posts
Unrelated but prob a good thing to do is change out the pcv valve with a new oem one. I remember Fred saying they normally last about 60k in your application. With double the miles and previously owned by an older couple I bet you still have the original in there.

I also remember some oils seem to make the engines pretty loud. Maybe try a different oil like Motorcraft syn-blend 5w20.

Also it would be interesting if you peform an oil analysis to see how healthy your engine is. Great peace of mind also.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

Tell them your buying a used car so they will ship the free sample bottle much faster. Otherwise it takes a month or two.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Unrelated but prob a good thing to do is change out the pcv valve with a new oem one. I remember Fred saying they normally last about 60k in your application. With double the miles and previously owned by an older couple I bet you still have the original in there.

I also remember some oils seem to make the engines pretty loud. Maybe try a different oil like Motorcraft syn-blend 5w20.

Also it would be interesting if you peform an oil analysis to see how healthy your engine is. Great peace of mind also.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

Tell them your buying a used car so they will ship the free sample bottle much faster. Otherwise it takes a month or two.


Thanks will do, about the PVC i was definetly going to check into that, I noticed what i felt was a larger amount of air coming from the oil filler cap when i removed it with the car running to try and hear if the tapping was coming from the valvetrain, I was thinking that may have something to do with the PVC..



The car seems to run mint, I think this week i'm just going to try and oil change, I was thinking about going to a 5w30 to see if the thicker weight quieted the sound down, is that a bad idea?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,420 Posts
You'll always have some pressure coming out of the oil cap when its running.

Do you know what oil was used in its last oil change. If the wrong grade of oil was used, it can contribute to that sound. A thicker oil won't be able to get up to the piston skirt area as easily and make them less "cushioned" to the cylinder wall.

It definitely doesn't sound like valves. It would be much more tinny, metallic clicking, not that rattle I'm hearing.

A 5w30 would be the thickest oil that I'd go to on that engine. I'd first change it with either Mobil Clean 5000 oil or the semi-syn Motorcraft (5w20) and see if it changes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
You'll always have some pressure coming out of the oil cap when its running.

Do you know what oil was used in its last oil change. If the wrong grade of oil was used, it can contribute to that sound. A thicker oil won't be able to get up to the piston skirt area as easily and make them less "cushioned" to the cylinder wall.

It definitely doesn't sound like valves. It would be much more tinny, metallic clicking, not that rattle I'm hearing.

A 5w30 would be the thickest oil that I'd go to on that engine. I'd first change it with either Mobil Clean 5000 oil or the semi-syn Motorcraft (5w20) and see if it changes.


Hey FredSVT, The oil change decal on the windsheild says 5w20 so i'm guessing the correct oil was used, i'll definetly try the semi-syn motorcraft, i read alot of guys on hear run it..

I've owned alot of cars, It's just blowing my mind that i'm having this issue with what seems to be such a well maintained vehicle with about average miles for it's year.

I'll get on the oil change today though, hopefully i can find some motorcraft without having to go to a ford dealer.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,322 Posts
I remember Fred saying the spring in the oem pcv valve is likely thicker(more durable) than the cheap aftermarket pcv valves for sale at Autozoo or AA.

Hows the trans fluid look? Just pull the atf dipstick. Hopefully its pink, med red and not brown or black. This may give you more insight on how well the car was maintained.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
Maybe purchase one of those extended warrenties. I think most can be had up to 150K miles. If the motor explodes you have some insurance?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Hows the trans fluid look? Just pull the atf dipstick. Hopefully its pink, med red and not brown or black. This may give you more insight on how well the car was maintained.
Doesn't look too bad, had a pinkish/redish tint to it. I was planning to still do a drain and fill here soon to be safe.


Maybe purchase one of those extended warrenties. I think most can be had up to 150K miles. If the motor explodes you have some insurance?
Not a bad idea lol
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top