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I recently purchased a 2011 Honda Accord 2.4 from a family member for an extremely cheap price. It only has 20K miles, but it sat for months at a time and was only driven a few times a year. As a result, I have had multiple small, but still extremely annoying issues. I want to tackle this one before anything else. I have attached some screen grabs of live data. The car runs pretty rough. When it idles, there is a very noticeable vibration, acceleration feels lumpy, and the transmission shifts very roughly, presumably because the engine just faceplants every time it shifts. Some direction or things to check would be amazing. Thanks
Data while idling:
Screenshot-20201019-055510
Data while cruising at 40 mph around 1800 RPM:
Screenshot-20201020-110530
Screenshot-20201021-044552
 

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Turbo lag
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The AFR looks fine. You'll get more stable AFR if you get a new O2 sensor and clean the MAF sensor. I'd make sure to go through and change all the fluids on the car first. Do the 3x drain and fill on the transmission first, check all the mechanicals, a fresh tank of gas with water remover, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The AFR looks fine. You'll get more stable AFR if you get a new O2 sensor and clean the MAF sensor. I'd make sure to go through and change all the fluids on the car first. Do the 3x drain and fill on the transmission first, check all the mechanicals, a fresh tank of gas with water remover, etc.
Thanks! I flushed all the fluids as soon as I got the car, including the transmission 3x. I've put over 4k miles on it in the past 2 months and multiple fuel cleaners. Something is definitely wrong though. Sometimes it runs perfectly fine for a short period then the next drive cycle it slams through the gears and the whole car shakes at idle. I've seen up to - 14% fuel trims combined when that happens. I'm definitely willing to change the upstream sensor, I just wanted to see if there was anything that could be throwing off the data. Could a bad ground or wiring throw the data off? I've compared it to an almost identical car and the o2 sensor stayed steady at around 0.6v and it idled and drove way smoother than mine even though it had 140k miles
 

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Turbo lag
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Good for you getting all that done already.
I'd replace the upstream O2 and see if that helps.
 

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Good for you getting all that done already.
I'd replace the upstream O2 and see if that helps.
If the o2 sensor ends up curing it I will be genuinely perplexed. I have no idea how it could fail with such low mileage. One of the other issues I'm having is a light knocking at idle with no load, and the ac compressor squeaks every time it engages. I replaced both the serpentine belt and the tensioner because the tensioner failed and was knocking extremely loudly. I used a continental belt and an oem tensioner.
 

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Apparently O2 sensor can just fail out of nowhere (so I was told). Is the knock an actual engine knock or just a knocking sound?
 

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Apparently O2 sensor can just fail out of nowhere (so I was told). Is the knock an actual engine knock or just a knocking sound?
It's coming from the passenger side. I don't think it's from the engine, maybe from something on the belt drive? I don't think it could be anything in the engine itself. I'm running amsoil signature series so it's definitely not an oil problem.

It's very faint and intermittent but it's definitely noticeable from inside the cabin. It's harder to hear from the engine bay surprisingly
 

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Take a video if possible.
 

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I assume there are no codes and no pending codes? I have to assume the bad running and idling is misfires. I do not know if you have a tool to look at the misfire counts.

Lacking that information, I would pull the spark plugs and examine those to see if there are any clues. I suspect a bad fuel injector, but the misfires would at least narrow it down. It could be a sticking EGR or blocked runners as well. That might explain the pinging.

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I assume there are no codes and no pending codes? I have to assume the bad running and idling is misfires. I do not know if you have a tool to look at the misfire counts.

Lacking that information, I would pull the spark plugs and examine those to see if there are any clues. I suspect a bad fuel injector, but the misfires would at least narrow it down. It could be a sticking EGR or blocked runners as well. That might explain the pinging.

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No active or pending codes. I don't have access to misfire data unfortunately. I replaced the sparkplug with the ngk ruthenium variety after driving it 1k miles myself and they all looked even. I thought they might look a touch on the whiter side, but they even is what matters most. WOT pulls feel plenty powerful for what it is but the transmission still shifts rough from 1st to 2nd. Could there be a problem with the evap system? I'm just frustrated that a car this new runs this bad and I have no codes to offer me any direction. Would there be any benefit to pulling the fuel rail and seeing injector spray pattern and possibly external cleaning?

I assume there are no codes and no pending codes? I have to assume the bad running and idling is misfires. I do not know if you have a tool to look at the misfire counts.

Lacking that information, I would pull the spark plugs and examine those to see if there are any clues. I suspect a bad fuel injector, but the misfires would at least narrow it down. It could be a sticking EGR or blocked runners as well. That might explain the pinging.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
It's never really run 100% good, but the fuel trims fluctuate. Sometimes the ltft and stft combined are around - 14% with the stft never settling around 0. The car runs the worst at that point with very rough and abrupt shifting and rough idle, with the engine bogging down around 200 rpm when the ac kicks in. Sometimes it runs better with the fuel trims at 0% combined. The weird thing is that the o2 sensor graphs never change. At idle, they steadily fall, fluctuate a few times in the middle, and then spoke back up to 0.8v. I've never seen anything like it. I'd like to figure out the squeak/very faint knocking noise coming from the belt drive but that's secondary to this. The car is just annoying to drive and I don't want to cause any damage by ignoring it.
 

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Just out of curiosity, does the "extremely cheap" price for the car justify the hassle of doing all of this work? Sounds like the sitting has caused an awful lot of issues. As much as I love Accords, they're pretty regular cars, not classics or anything.
 

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Just out of curiosity, does the "extremely cheap" price for the car justify the hassle of doing all of this work? Sounds like the sitting has caused an awful lot of issues. As much as I love Accords, they're pretty regular cars, not classics or anything.
I mean I got it for $2k so I'm not complaining. Even after spending over a grand on good tires and maintenance I'm still well below what it's actually worth.
 

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$2k?! And it still sort of drives?! Okay, yeah, I'd probably be in your same position too then. Good luck with it!
 

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$2k?! And it still sort of drives?! Okay, yeah, I'd probably be in your same position too then. Good luck with it!
Thank you!

Take a video if possible.
The video is uploading now and I'll post it as soon as it's done. The weirdest thing is that you can't hear the squeak from when the ac kicks in from the engine bay, only the interior. Also, I've noticed that the ticking is louder when the fuel trims are poor. I wonder if the injectors are what are making noise since the engine is under increased load from not running correctly.
 

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Just for grins check the air tube from the throttle body to the airbox and make sure that it has no leaks.

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Take a video if possible.
Here are a few clips. It's hard to hear, especially in the video. Things I could pick up were the fuel injectors ticking (pretty normal, just sometimes louder than others), the very faint knocking, the squeak when the a/c kicks on, the bogging down of the engine when the a/c kicks on, and the power steering whine (not sure if it's normal)
 

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it says the video is private
 
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