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Discussion Starter #1
Is there no way to do this without needing to relay it and buy a whole kit? All the people Ive talked to said its a lot harder and a lot more work that you would think and you need a full kit (with harness etc), as the OEM stock wiring wont be able to power the LED DRLs fully.

Something like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6000K-White-9005-LED-Daytime-Running-Light-Kit-For-Acura-TSX-TL-Honda-Civic-etc-/130778276509?hash=item1e72fe229d&vxp=mtr

I cant just go on ebay and buy a couple 6000k bulbs and plug and play. I really want to do this mod as Ive already completed all my other lighting in the car with LEDs.

Keep in mind I already have 35W 6000K HIDs for my headlights and 6000K LED conversion kit as my fogs.

The shop where Ive got my LED fog kit installed and my remote starter and double din put in, he quoted me $275 installed for a full 6000K LED DRL kit. A lot of cash for what I thought was a small mod.
 

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$275? I thought 9005 LEDs were PnP... I'm considering this too since my 9005 halogens are useless thanks to my MH1 retro (I opted to do bi-xenon as well)... but I would surely miss that extra brightness from the halogens on dark roads at night using high beams lol LEDs in the reflector housing wouldn't compare at all. Even if they have a "projector lens" on the bulb... *sigh* oh, eBay, how you tempt me...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well you can PnP with ebay bulbs, but the guy said if you want to do it right you need a full kit with ballasts or else you wont get full output from them.

Im sure they would look great when running off its own wiring over stock, but not sure I want to drop $275 on it lol. Ive already spent just over $600 on my LED fog kit and HIDs.

I have no use for high beams since I never use them. I have HIDs and they run as my low beams.
 

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HAHA

Your guy is full of shit. Ballasts for LED drop in kits? What is he, high? You don't use ballasts for LED drop in kits. You use fire. Because they deserve to burn.

Anyways, real LED headlights (from the factory, not aftermarket nonsense) use proper LED drivers which will limit the current and voltage going to the LEDs. They also have massive heatsinks to ensure the LEDs last longer than your car. You can't do this with ebay LED drop in bulbs because then you'd have to desolder every single one of those LEDs and independently wire them into a driver that you either a) choose or b) design for the LEDs that are used on the ebay bulbs. Do you know the forward voltage requirement of those LEDs? How about the heat capacity? Max current?

If you're going to get those LED bulbs, go ahead and get them. Just don't be surprised when they don't actually do anything worth your money.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
HAHA

Your guy is full of shit. Ballasts for LED drop in kits? What is he, high? You don't use ballasts for LED drop in kits. You use fire. Because they deserve to burn.

Anyways, real LED headlights (from the factory, not aftermarket nonsense) use proper LED drivers which will limit the current and voltage going to the LEDs. They also have massive heatsinks to ensure the LEDs last longer than your car. You can't do this with ebay LED drop in bulbs because then you'd have to desolder every single one of those LEDs and independently wire them into a driver that you either a) choose or b) design for the LEDs that are used on the ebay bulbs. Do you know the forward voltage requirement of those LEDs? How about the heat capacity? Max current?

If you're going to get those LED bulbs, go ahead and get them. Just don't be surprised when they don't actually do anything worth your money.
I dont get it. So are you saying that you should be able to PnP 9005 LED bulbs into this car as DRLs without a need for a kit?

Im not 100% sure if he said you need ballasts for a DRL LED kit but he said that you need upgraded wiring cause the stock wiring wont provide enough current to fully power the bulbs.

I know for my LED fogs i definitely needed the ballasts.
 

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Yeah you should be able to use LED bulbs.

There is no such thing as ballasts for LED bulbs. There is such a thing as drivers.

Admittedly, I'm not sure what system the Accord employs for the DRLs (whether it is a voltage drop, current limited, or maybe PWM?), but if the LED bulb is any good, that shouldn't matter.

Honestly, though, I'd rather have a functioning high beam than pretty DRLs that makes my high beams useless.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah you should be able to use LED bulbs.

There is no such thing as ballasts for LED bulbs. There is such a thing as drivers.

Admittedly, I'm not sure what system the Accord employs for the DRLs (whether it is a voltage drop, current limited, or maybe PWM?), but if the LED bulb is any good, that shouldn't matter.

Honestly, though, I'd rather have a functioning high beam than pretty DRLs that makes my high beams useless.
Well on my old car I had PnP LED bulbs that worked and were pretty bright. But after having a full LED kit on my fogs now and seeing how bright they are, wow now I know why ballasts are needed to fully power these bulbs. Theyre brighter than my HIDs and probably the most useful and brightest fogs ive ever seen.

The only thing is that I pretty much never use high beams and still see the purpose of them aside from if you ever need to flash someone on the highway.

Im not paying $275 for the full kit, but I am tempted to pay $40 or so on ebay for a set of CREE 6000K DRLs, as long as its PnP.
 

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We carry XenonDepot 9005 LED Headlight Kits that you could install into the high beam. They are a 6000K color temperature and rated at 2500 lumens, so about twice as bright as a halogen bulb. Due to the DRL, you would need a canbus adapter to prevent the light from flickering since it is also used as a DRL. The LED's can't run at reduced power so with the canbus adapter installed it would just operate at normal power in DRL mode.

John
 

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XD if u run the 9005 LED headlight bulbs u mention in the above post with the adapter to operate them at full power during DRL function will the brighter light over power the turn signals and make them hard to see during the day?

thanks
 

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@kenny g - I've never really been asked that question before. I don't believe that this will be an issue though, as your DRL/high beams are located at the inner part of your headlight.

Steve
 

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These might be a good idea, I removed the DRL fuse and run a 6000k 35w low beam morimoto kit, then I have a inexpensive 55w 4300k 9005 in the high beams. I went cheap because high beam use eats bulbs, only being on for a short time and many a times not being able to fully warm up.

Either way the highbeams are incredibly bright, literally amazing output....But they take 5-7 seconds to warm up which is annoying! If I could get similar output LED's that don't have a warm up time that would be awesome.
 

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We carry XenonDepot 9005 LED Headlight Kits that you could install into the high beam. They are a 6000K color temperature and rated at 2500 lumens, so about twice as bright as a halogen bulb. Due to the DRL, you would need a canbus adapter to prevent the light from flickering since it is also used as a DRL. The LED's can't run at reduced power so with the canbus adapter installed it would just operate at normal power in DRL mode.

John
So in other words you'd be blinding everyone all day??
 

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@ksills - no - they will not be on when you have your low beams on, unless you're choosing to drive with your high beams on.

Steve
Steve, If you are running DRL's at "full" power than aren't your brights on even when your low beams are off???
 

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During the day, yes. I wanted to clarify that the high beams would not be on when your low beams are on (you mentioned all day in your post).

Steve
 

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Retrofit is the way to do man. its easy and fun to do if your get a simple hid projector like the mini h1s.
 
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