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Discussion Starter #1
I tried the search function, couldn't really come up with definitive answers.

I know the RV6 pcd works with the 9th gen CVT sport.

From what I gathered, the megan test pipe (for the '07 V6 accord) works with the manual i4, but not the CVT because our 2nd cat isn't attached in the same manner, so it isn't "bolt on." I saw the post where someone had his welded professionally to make it work -- that's an option I'm considering, but having it installed will probably be 3 times the price of the part itself.

P2R - throwdown performance lists this as compatible with our gen accords as well. But I couldn't determine if this works with the CVT.

Does anyone have the P2R downpipe on a CVT 9th gen accord? I looked at the exhaust schematic, but I'm no mechanic and can't determine if it's a straight bolt on. I like the sound of the P2R. I know RV6 offers much better performance, but from what I can gather the P2R offers a better sound (and from what I've heard on youtube, I like it).

Experienced people: Does the P2R bolt on to the CVT accord sport? If not, would the RV6 pcd + getting the megan test pipe welded on get rid of the rasp without making it too loud/ricer sounding?

Thanks for any help. I'm just looking to finish the external mods by getting a good non-ricey sound, then it's finishing up interior and I'll be finished for good and no longer asking what are probably silly questions to those who are much better informed than myself.
 

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Where did you hear this combination?? I googled the p2r downpipe for a 9th gen and got nothing. Just a bunch of 8.5 gens.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Browsing throwdown performance; their website states the P2R downpipe fits the 2015 accord sport.

Haven't heard of the combo, most people suggest using RV6 pcd with the RV6 test pipe, or other forms of 2nd cat delete.

The megan test pipe is a pretty cheap method, and it sounds good from what I've heard. The design seems like it would help as a resonator for the RV6, since the rasp is what I've heard a lot about.

But if the P2R fits, and simply changing 5 bolts to remove that 2nd cat gives me the sound I want for less than $300, it's a better option than the $400 + custom welding for the megan pipe, and time to have it installed.

Just want to know if the P2R will fit, or if I'll have to go the extra steps with the RV6 method.

Again -- it's sound v power in this case.
 

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P2R is not a downpipe according to pictures. It's a B-pipe, a section of exhaust that goes after the downpipe.

I was the one that had Megan test pipe welded. I had the shop weld me a couple of new flanges so the test pipe could be removed with ease. The total cost to implement my test pipe with existing exhaust setup was less than 100 dollars, including the Megan test pipe. That's far less than 400 dollars you are quoting.

There are two options for your exhaust, up to catback exhaust(CBE).

RV6 downpipe - Stock B-pipe - Megan racing test pipe - CBE
or
RV6 downpipe - P2R B-pipe - CBE.

Both setups will give you rasp but the second option will be RaspMaster level 9000. I have the first setup as it was cheapest and it was done with what was available at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
P2R is not a downpipe according to pictures. It's a B-pipe, a section of exhaust that goes after the downpipe.

I was the one that had Megan test pipe welded. I had the shop weld me a couple of new flanges so the test pipe could be removed with ease. The total cost to implement my test pipe with existing exhaust setup was less than 100 dollars, including the Megan test pipe. That's far less than 400 dollars you are quoting.

There are two options for your exhaust, up to catback exhaust(CBE).

RV6 downpipe - Stock B-pipe - Megan racing test pipe - CBE
or
RV6 downpipe - P2R B-pipe - CBE.

Both setups will give you rasp but the second option will be RaspMaster level 9000. I have the first setup as it was cheapest and it was done with what was available at the time.

Thanks for the input!

The $400 was meaning the RV6 downpipe + the megan test pipe and fabrication. The P2R is $285 and if it fits the CVT would be a 5 bolt job to swap it out.

My plan is to avoid a CBE, I haven't found one that I'm in love with yet. So I was thinking either RV6 + Megan pipe, or P2R if it fits CVT since the P2R alone would be the easiest to swap in, and the P2R + intake + stock exhaust sounds deep enough for my liking. Or, does the megan test pipe itself make a sound difference similar to the P2R pipe?

And, will the P2R fit and can I just swap it in with a few bolts as I'm assuming? If not, how would I best explain to the shop what I'm wanting with the megan test pipe? You seem very educated on the topic and able to explain what you need, whereas I am not, lol. In an attempt to not be the "Can you make this thing fit here?" guy, will they know what I mean if I ask for flanges welded on to make it easier to remove?

Thanks again for the help! I'm sitting here waiting to order the test pipe or the P2R today depending on what I find out here!
 

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Thanks for the input!

The $400 was meaning the RV6 downpipe + the megan test pipe and fabrication. The P2R is $285 and if it fits the CVT would be a 5 bolt job to swap it out.

My plan is to avoid a CBE, I haven't found one that I'm in love with yet. So I was thinking either RV6 + Megan pipe, or P2R if it fits CVT since the P2R alone would be the easiest to swap in, and the P2R + intake + stock exhaust sounds deep enough for my liking. Or, does the megan test pipe itself make a sound difference similar to the P2R pipe?

And, will the P2R fit and can I just swap it in with a few bolts as I'm assuming? If not, how would I best explain to the shop what I'm wanting with the megan test pipe? You seem very educated on the topic and able to explain what you need, whereas I am not, lol. In an attempt to not be the "Can you make this thing fit here?" guy, will they know what I mean if I ask for flanges welded on to make it easier to remove?

Thanks again for the help! I'm sitting here waiting to order the test pipe or the P2R today depending on what I find out here!
Remember, with P2R "downpipe" alone, you will still have your stock downpipe. If you include the RV6 downpipe cost, then the final price for RV6 downpipe + P2R "downpipe" is higher than doing RV6 downpipe + stock b-pipe + megan test pipe. Stock B-pipe is is almost a straight tube, with no restriction. Other than that, it's ugly, but it does the job.

P2R should fit with stock downpipe and RV6 downpipe no problems.

I personally can't tell you what the difference is between my setup w/ stock CBE and P2R. I heard some sound clips of Accords with 2 cats deleted and it sounded terrible.

After these mods, I would consider getting a tuning kit like Ktuner + e-tune/dyno tune. The difference between factory tune and my custom tune is unbelievable. That's another topic for another discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks again. Yeah, it makes sense the P2R isn't a downpipe -- the throwdown website has it listed as P2R downpipe w/ cat delete. It makes sense as the RV6 is actually, you know, going down... and the P2R is already down, straight underneath.

I'm not planning on deleting both cats, I want a louder + deeper sound, without as much of that terrible sound associated with "ricers" or whatever you want to call them.

So I guess in reality now you've cleared up my thinking to -- does the megan test pipe itself change the sound enough to notice? If so I'll go that route, and can always add the RV6 in the future if I choose to do so.

If the megan test pipe alone won't make a real difference in sound, maybe just doing the P2R is enough for me. Getting rid of both of those cats is definitely not on my list of possibilities, ever. I know it'll be too loud (and likely smelly) for my taste.

Tl;dr my final, actual question at this point - Does the megan test pipe alone improve sound? If so, how do I describe to my shop the weld job you got?

Oh and ktuner is a yes/no thing daily for me. I just don't think I'll have the skill or dedication to appropriately tune it. But at the very least I'll likely use his basemap for the 91 octane as I hear that alone is a major improvement vs stock.
 

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I wish I could answer in regards to sound, but I only have one real point of comparison. My current setup sounds good at all rpms except at 3300-4000.

Tell your shop to weld 2 extra flanges on B pipe before CBE. He should understand.
 
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