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I know this thread is well about 2 months old, but I have a question. I'm currently converting to dual a custom exhaust system for my 2016 Accord EX CVT. Will adding the rv6 downpipe make the car louder significantly? I'm trying to maintain a rather quiet sound that's not too far from stock(just a pitch lower).

I saw a couple of posters who used various aftermarket resonators, but they all seem to be relatively loud still. Don't want my car to lose its quietness.
 

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I know this thread is well about 2 months old, but I have a question. I'm currently converting to dual a custom exhaust system for my 2016 Accord EX CVT. Will adding the rv6 downpipe make the car louder significantly? I'm trying to maintain a rather quiet sound that's not too far from stock(just a pitch lower).

I saw a couple of posters who used various aftermarket resonators, but they all seem to be relatively loud still. Don't want my car to lose its quietness.
No, you'll just get an annoying rasp. You'll need to beef up the resonator to get rid of it.
 

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I am surprised a stock brake horsepower 189hp cvt put 176hp to the ground. People act like CVTs rob gobs amount of power out of engines but I would beg to differ traditional automatics do far worse in terms of dyno sheets. I think people forget that CVTs were banned from Formula 1 because they were too good.
 

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2013 Accord Sport 6MT
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Joeggernaut, do you happen to have a source for that claim that F1 banned it due to being too good. I am genuinely interested.

From my quick research, Williams developed the FW15C but never really saw any race time because electronic driver aids were subsequently banned right after development. The CVT used in the Williams car was considered an electronic driver aid as it was essentially an automatic transmission. So it wasn't so much banned for being too good but a change in rules that disallowed things like ABS, traction control, etc. You could make the same argument that ABS was banned from F1 because it was "too good."

I would love someone to correct me as you brought up something that I wasn't aware of and I'm really interested in.

To bring the thread back to topic, HAccord, I added an RV6 downpipe to my stock sport exhaust. It did bring up the volume slightly while under load. A nasty rasp developed around 3-4k rpm and I would like to attribute it to the secondary cat having its substrate rattle due to the increase flow rate. RV6 recently came out with a mid pipe with a resonated designed to tame that specific rasp.

No comment on the RV6 midpipe as I already sold off my Accord before they came out with that solution (Loving my Subaru WRX atm). If you are in the market for a downpipe, I still have mine up for sale for the i4.
 

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Joeggernaut, do you happen to have a source for that claim that F1 banned it due to being too good. I am genuinely interested.

From my quick research, Williams developed the FW15C but never really saw any race time because electronic driver aids were subsequently banned right after development. The CVT used in the Williams car was considered an electronic driver aid as it was essentially an automatic transmission. So it wasn't so much banned for being too good but a change in rules that disallowed things like ABS, traction control, etc. You could make the same argument that ABS was banned from F1 because it was "too good."

I would love someone to correct me as you brought up something that I wasn't aware of and I'm really interested in.

To bring the thread back to topic, HAccord, I added an RV6 downpipe to my stock sport exhaust. It did bring up the volume slightly while under load. A nasty rasp developed around 3-4k rpm and I would like to attribute it to the secondary cat having its substrate rattle due to the increase flow rate. RV6 recently came out with a mid pipe with a resonated designed to tame that specific rasp.

No comment on the RV6 midpipe as I already sold off my Accord before they came out with that solution (Loving my Subaru WRX atm). If you are in the market for a downpipe, I still have mine up for sale for the i4.


The story goes when they tested the CVT on the F1 it was few seconds quicker around the track and F1 specifically banned it and imposed that transmissions must have between 4 and 7 fixed gears. They banned abs, magnetic ride suspension, traction control, etc because those are also too good. It takes the human aspect away because a computer is talking directly to the mechanics and is much more efficient. With all the aids, one could theoretically just hold the gas and barely steer around the track and break all kinds of lap records, leaving very little "sport" and more about technology in which richest teams would most likely dominate. Plus the story is also that F1 thought the fans would hate the sound of the cars always at peak TQ or HP.

In the case of our CVTS, they are mostly tuned to run the lowest amount of TQ and RPM to maximize fuel economy. Putting it in sport mode mimics the car trying to maintain peak tq/hp but you can tell the Honda engineers also tried to mimic conventional transmission by allowing it to rev up and down when in sport mode. I have driven other eco boxes with cvt like a corolla and if you floor that it will stay a set rpm no matter what. That dyno posted on the 1 first page did include a air intake but still, the amount of minimal drive-train loss is impressive.

I think manufacturers could easily slap a cvt in high performance cars/trucks if they wanted but the general public is too use to conventional transmission movements/sounds. If they could hold 19K RPM on a F1 car with 600hp in 1993 they could easily build cvts strong enough today for probably the same price if not cheaper than a conventional automatic and defn cheaper than dual clutch one. I think CVTs get a bad rep because they are always paired with ecobox cars or low horsepower cars. No car manufacturer has tried to pair one with a high performance car because that would be "blaspheme". Same people who probably complained about dual clutch automatics, traction control, abs, electronic LSDs, etc, etc.. They are just more efficient and with the requirement for high mpg from car manufacturers I don't think they are going away (ps I have never owned an automatic until this car but driving a manual in stop-in go traffic every day got old).
 

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2014 Accord EX 6MT
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RV6 & Ktuner Installed

I recently installed the down pipe and the flash and am happy with the results. I already had a takeda intake. I am wondering about a couple of things. One thing when I did the reflash, my engine oil life curiously went from 60% to 100%. It must have automatically reset itself. I wonder if anyone else has noticed anything peculiar. The other thing I am wondering about is what all the fuss is about the rasp. I don't hear it unless I get on it and then the takeda intake about drowns it out. I definitley am not going to worry about it. Driving around town normally and cruising down the highway I don't know if there is any difference from stock.
 

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Let's ride into Hell
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How much Horse power gain (approx) could i get from having a config of:

Throttle Body spacer

K and N Cold air intake

dual exhaust from cat down (2.5 to Y pipe 2.25)

(resonator delete)

(and then all this with the a RV6 downpipe)

Honda accord 2013 Sport i-4

Just trying to see if a RV6 is worth the 400$
 

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How much Horse power gain (approx) could i get from having a config of:

Throttle Body spacer

K and N Cold air intake

dual exhaust from cat down (2.5 to Y pipe 2.25)

(resonator delete)

(and then all this with the a RV6 downpipe)

Honda accord 2013 Sport i-4

Just trying to see if a RV6 is worth the 400$
Rv6 Downpipe on a 4 cylinder looks to add 10 horsepower and 11 torque, not too bad considering.

Resonator delete will do nothing for gains, just changes how the car sounds. Dual exhaust does nothing for gains as you're not changing the cat which is where exhaust gains typically come from. The intake probably doesn't add much power realistically, but it does help throttle response and the like. Overall the downpipe is definitely going to be where you see the biggest gains.
 

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Newbie here with a 2016 Accord Sport CVT.

Looking into the RV6 PCD + Ktuner package. I wanted to know if the HP and TQ gain will be similar to the MT i4?

Initially, RV6 started the R&D for their PCD downpipe with a CVT, but eventually posted the MT numbers for more accuracy. The only CVT dyno that I've seen is for no mods (just baseline stock) from TOV (Temple of VTEC) for a 2013 CVT (159HP + 146TQ) from a Sport Paddle 3rd pull. Is the the combined gain (not total) similar with the MT?

Appreciate everyone's responses.
 

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Mod it or don't drive it
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I have the same question but with a 2013-2017 EX-L v6

What is the before and after HP difference when you add the Ktuner, Long tube J pipe, High flow Precats, double resonated midpipe, borla catback 118400, and Injen SP1686BLK air intake or Takeda Short Ram?

If I'm going to spend $2700, I need more than 30 hp increase and a different sound. Talk to me Kinsume. What are we looking at here?

659 - Double Resonated Midpipe
485 - Long Tube Jpipe
585 - RV6 HFPCs
450 - ktuner
500 - borla catback 118400
286 - injen SP1686BLK
 

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With all those bolt add ons to the V6 you will get close to or right at 280hp at the tires. Big jump.. Stock the car puts 250hp to the tires and I think 230tq.
 

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Mod it or don't drive it
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With all those bolt add ons to the V6 you will get close to or right at 280hp at the tires. Big jump.. Stock the car puts 250hp to the tires and I think 230tq.
$2700 for 30 hp is a horrible cost/performance ratio. I picked up 30hp with just a pair of $300 long tubes in my v8 Camaro ss.

I think I'll be putting that $2700 towards a turbo kit for my Camaro instead.
 

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Yea Honda is already getting a good amount from the engine in stock trim. This V6 isnt a 300whp or more like Infinity or Lexus or BMW or Jag or Mercedes. 280hp at the tires is it unless you boost it or go with pistons or something. Not with bolt ons. And part of me is sad about that. I came from a Q50. I miss that V6. Car had all kids of electrical issues and the infotaiment system was ranked second to last in the world. But the engine and transmission was a blast. Car was a blast to drive. I need to let it go though because my Honda wont ever feel like that. Its not in that class of car.
 

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So I just installed the downpipe on my i4 coupe yesterday and tuned using the provided tune from ktuner. This afternoon driving, I stopped for about 30 mins at the store and then went back out to find I couldn't get the car to crank. I had one of those jumper boxes in the trunk and was able to get it started using that, but on it's own it was a no go. I'm assuming it's just a coincidence (been running the ktuner tune for about 2 months prior with no issues, it's awesome for the record), I'll go have the battery checked out tomorrow. Just curious if anyone had any thoughts on it. Could heat soak be an issue at all? Or possibly me messing up an o2 sensor?
 

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So I just installed the downpipe on my i4 coupe yesterday and tuned using the provided tune from ktuner. This afternoon driving, I stopped for about 30 mins at the store and then went back out to find I couldn't get the car to crank. I had one of those jumper boxes in the trunk and was able to get it started using that, but on it's own it was a no go. I'm assuming it's just a coincidence (been running the ktuner tune for about 2 months prior with no issues, it's awesome for the record), I'll go have the battery checked out tomorrow. Just curious if anyone had any thoughts on it. Could heat soak be an issue at all? Or possibly me messing up an o2 sensor?
Update: I had the battery checked at it came back ok. Haven't had any issues the past 2 days so I'm thinking maybe I just left something on :dunno:
 

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I just installed the RV6 PCD on my 2017 Accord Sport today, and man is that thing LOUD! I absolutely hate how loud it is. My car now sounds like a fart can right when I start it up. As soon as my car cools down enough, that thing is coming off. I've heard a lot of people say that there is some rasp around 4000 RPM, but this is right when I start it up, and it only gets louder with the RPM's.

I know there is a mid pipe that I can put on that is supposed to help, but I really wasn't expecting this thing to be that loud, and I don't want to drop another $400 just to quiet it down a little.

My recommendation is if you don't mind you car sounding like a fart can, then get it, cause it works great. It just sounds terrible.

***Update****

I'm an idiot. I found the exhaust leak and fixed it. Car sounds normal now, and what do you know, slight rasp at about 4000 RPM.
 

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Mod it or don't drive it
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I just installed the RV6 PCD on my 2017 Accord Sport today, and man is that thing LOUD! I absolutely hate how loud it is. My car now sounds like a fart can right when I start it up. As soon as my car cools down enough, that thing is coming off. I've heard a lot of people say that there is some rasp around 4000 RPM, but this is right when I start it up, and it only gets louder with the RPM's.

I know there is a mid pipe that I can put on that is supposed to help, but I really wasn't expecting this thing to be that loud, and I don't want to drop another $400 just to quiet it down a little.

My recommendation is if you don't mind you car sounding like a fart can, then get it, cause it works great. It just sounds terrible.
So instead of sounding deep and throaty, it sounds like a rice box, coffee/fart can, 90's civic? That's horrible. Why can't they make mods that actually perform and sound good?
 
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