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2006 Accord EX-L i4 4D
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I have some questions, if you guys can answer them, i'd appreciate it.

1. It says "Install the new plus being careful not to cross thread them. Then tighten to 13 ft lb of torque."
What does cross-thread mean?

excuse the noobness.
Cross-threading is where you don't properly align the threads of the plug with the pre-existing threads in the block. You'll force the plug to spin into the block, and cut new threads or cut across the existing threads. As SMF834 says, that's bad news for your block. There's no easy fix for it.

A trick I use (not just on plugs, but with threads in general) is spin the bolt backwards until I feel it "drop" into place. This is very slight, especially on fine threads, but will happen within 1 revolution. This means that the first thread on your bolt has lined up with the first thread cut into the block, or where its groove starts to thread itself in. Then, you know that you are threading back in along the same line of the threads that are already cut in the block.

If it doesn't spin along the threads freely, and it is hard to do, you have a problem.
 

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OMG your post is very helpful! Im do this over the weekend. My car is at 150k right now and she's ready to be tuned up.

05 Silver Accord
Weapon R Short Ram
Spyder Auto Projector Headlights w/ 55w 6K H1
Tinted All Around
Kickers All Around
 

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The brake booster vacuum hose.
 

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thank you so I disconnect the brake hose connected to the firewall part and put about a third of the can right, also how long should I let the car sit after this before I start it up and let it clean, thanks
 

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Yes, and about 30min before you turn on your car and WOT :D.
 

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I am so glad I found this thread.

I've got a 2006 Accord V6 Manual Transmission with 70k miles that I would like to do this on.

I bought it from CarMax and I am having trouble with the 3rd gear occasionally grinding so I am going to change the transmission fluid as well. I am coming up on an oil change for the first 3k miles since I bought it and I want to use Mobil1 Full Synthetic so this would be a good clean up before I make the switch.

Just one question... When you guys say "drive it hard" for 15 minutes, does that mean accelerate quickly, get the engine going, etc. ?
 

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In basic terms, yes, "drive it hard" means to accelerate quickly, shift until the last possible moment, etc. Since your car is an MT, it'll be easier for you to do that last part.
 

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07 Honda Accord EX-L V6
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313 Posts
i cant find the MAF on my 07 EX v6. looked around the air filter case for something similar to the picture but nothing. anyone can show me a picture of where it is? is it possible that i dont have one ? O_O

was reading through the thread, some people suggested feeding the seafoam through brake booster line... not sure which/where that is.. is it the same spot as the picture shows in OP?

i found something similar but i think its closer/on to the throttle body..?
 

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Stayin Classy...
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So... I used to work at both Autozone and Advanced Auto as a kid and I talk cars all the time with everyone. To my point....

Seafoam is raved about by the old folks (just like marvel mystery oil). It does work well, but for the right application.... OLD CARS. Adding sea foam to your oil is fine if you want to do that, but adding seafoam to your vacuum lines is a whole different story. Yes it will smoke out your entire neighborhood and it might clean the top of the valves well, but all this junk is now going to clog up your cats and O2 sensors.

Ask me how I know???

I thought Seafoam was amazing as well after everything I heard from older folks. I tried doing this exact thing in a buddies volvo. Not too long after, it started blinking all sorts of error codes and CEL's.

Another thing to think about. In older cars the build up adheres to a lot of seal areas in the engine. When you remove all this build up you then have the potential to start leaking oil from said gaskets.

Personally. I would just recommend running 93 octane with maybe a fuel injector cleaner now and again. Once every so often run a detergent in your oil to help clean your lower end. Drain and refill with fresh oil. As long as you rev your car up now and again to clean things out, I wouldn't worry about anything.
 

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V6 Two Vacuum Hose Options

A number of people have requested information on what vacuum hose to use on the V6 and where it is located.

The PCV hose I used is located on the left front side of the engine block. This seemed to be a very easy hose to access. To get to it, just remove the two clips on the valve cover in the front of the engine. This is the black plastic cover with the oil dipstick and oil cover where you add oil in the crankcase. The clips look like two regular screws on the face of this cover. Turn counterclockwise and the cover will can be lifted right off. The PCV hose is then easily access and identifiable on the left side of the engine. Removing the cover has exposed the hose end you want to remove right near the dipstick. It is about 3-4 inches long and comes out of the valve cover and back into the intake manifold. (If I have mis-named these parts, then my apologies... It is coming of the the engine and then right back into the engine...) Just slide the clip back with a pliers and gently prior the hose off of the fitting closet to the front of the car. (The screw driver in the second picture below is pointing to the side to remove. With the engine running you will be able to feel the suction of the vacuum.

P1020986.JPG

P1020990.JPG

Another alternative is the break booster hose. It is a larger hose than the PCV hose on the back right side of the engine block. If you follow this hose it will go to a large black disk on the firewall behind the brake fluid reservoir. This hose is much harder to access IMO, but you could reach in there and pry it off the black cylinder (brake booster). Just be careful not to crimp the hose when pouring the Seafoam into it.

Break booster hose at engine:
P1020985.JPG

Follow the hose to the break booster. This is where you would detach the hose if you choose to use this vacuum hose:
P1020984.JPG
 

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Bout it, Bout it
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If I had to ever use Seafoam, I'd ONLY use it in older vehicles (pre-late 90s) where there aren't as many sensors and sensitive seals present like in modern cars.

There's a reason Honda doesn't recommend use of oil additives. As long as you regularly change the oil + filter with quality stuff, you're golden. The only additive I trust in my car is Techron because it is one of the few scientifically proven and OEM-backed products out there.
 

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seafom use

I have used seafoam only using the vacuum line and while I had no issues with the cars afterwords, I did not notice any improvement in how the car runs or the gas mileage. Would Seafoam be one of those snake oil products? I can t say...
Now on the other side I used Auto Rx in almost all my used cars. For example, I know that it stopped a rear main seal in a 97 Maxima and generally speaking I can see a positive cleaning action in the engines. I am in the rinse phase (first one) and due to the fact that I got 2 bottles I will do it again at the next engine oil. I do not believe in the harsh engine cleaners nor driving the car 100 miles with the Seafoam in the engine...So far,the Auto Rx worked for me even the result is just barely visible...The only downside with the Auto Rx is the price of the product...Now,I am ready to see your comments.
 

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Ballin' on a budget
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While I didn't notice any real difference in performance on my 07 Accord i4 doing a Seafoam treatment, my little 5 HP Honda lawnmower on the other hand went from barely starting on the best days to starting up with a single pull the first time.

So I don't think it's a snake oil product, I'm just not sure of it's usefullness in a larger engine. I have yet to say any reports of major engine failure directly linked to using seafoam and I think it's like any other engine cleaning agent (TB cleaner, MAF cleaner, fuel system cleaner, etc.), they may not offer immediate increases, but they may increase your engines life between repairs.
 

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Ceeeeej
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I have been wanting to do this. Im scared of not knowing all the spots to put the seafoam
 

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Quick tip or question...depends how to look at it..

I've read ALOT of places that cleaning the MAF can be done with simple IPA... (isopropyl alcohol)... Some people soak the entire MAF (I personally don't recommend) or others pour the IPA over the sensors that need cleaning. I haven't tried this process yet but the MAF cleaner around here is $8. I've got some IPA for free... so I'll be using that stuff!
 
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