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Discussion Starter #1
After a week of driving with engine light on, just got the word from the dealer that the 'cat' is "below threshold" and they recommend replacing it to the tune of $1100. Feeling gouged and wondering if anyone has experience with the same issue. For example aftermarket parts, whether or not it's best to bite bullet and have dealer do it, or to shop around. Any advice would be most welcome as I will be doing my best to lower the investment. The 2003 Accord has 204K and has served me well despite some bad luck. It's on its 5th windshield. Thanks for your thoughts.

Joe :D
 

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06 6MT Sedan
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After a week of driving with engine light on, just got the word from the dealer that the 'cat' is "below threshold" and they recommend replacing it to the tune of $1100. Feeling gouged and wondering if anyone has experience with the same issue. For example aftermarket parts, whether or not it's best to bite bullet and have dealer do it, or to shop around. Any advice would be most welcome as I will be doing my best to lower the investment. The 2003 Accord has 204K and has served me well despite some bad luck. It's on its 5th windshield. Thanks for your thoughts.

Joe :D
I would definitely go aftermarket. I don't have any recent numbers to back that up, but last time I had a repair like this done it was less than $400.
 

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If yours lasted 204K then maybe one in a junk yard from a low mileage Accord?
 

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mobiless2
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I purchased a Magnaflow direct-fit for my old GS-R. Worked Great. Way cheaper than factory.
 

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If yours lasted 204K then maybe one in a junk yard from a low mileage Accord?
That would be illegal ... It is a violation of EPA laws to reuse a cat.
 

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If yours lasted 204K then maybe one in a junk yard from a low mileage Accord?
Apparently it's no longer legal to resell used catalytic converters, at least in the US anyway. See Section 5 of EPA link http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/factshts/catcvrts.pdf

(5) What about using converters from salvage yards or junked cars?
EPA considers it a violation of the policy to install a used converter from a salvage yard or
sell it for reuse unless it has been properly tested and labeled. Similarly, it is a violation to install
an untested used converter brought in by a customer, even if the customer insists that the used
converter came off his/her vehicle.
Salvage or junk yards also would be considered liable for causing tampering if they sell
converters that have not been tested or do not meet the requirements outlined in the policy and if the
converters are subsequently installed by parties named in the Clean Air Act as prohibited from
tampering.
Section 6 is quite interesting too:

(6) When can I install an aftermarket converter?
Generally, there are only 3 situations when you can install an aftermarket converter.
They are:
(1) if the converter is missing from the vehicle when brought in for exhaust
system repair; or
(2) if a State or local inspection program has determined the existing converter
has been lead poisoned, damaged, or otherwise needs replacement; or
(3) if the vehicle is more than 5 years old or has more than 50,000 miles*
(8 years/80,000 miles for 1995 and newer vehicles) and a legitimate need for
replacement has been established and appropriately documented (e.g., a
plugged converter or unrepairable exhaust leaks).
Any other converter replacement must be with a 'certified' or new original equipment (OE)
or equivalent converter.
Aftermarket converters subject to the enforcement policy requirements cannot be used for
replacement if:
(1) the existing converter is present and functioning properly; or
(2) the replacement is under recall or warranty; or
(3) the vehicle is returning from overseas use.
 

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It's against federal law for any "junkyard" or used parts place to re-sell a used cat of any kind.
They must go off to a place that can "recertify" the cats they remove. Many times they are worth more money to have the precious metals pulled out of the beds.

If you can find a cat with a CARB EO number, it should work near the same as oem. They will be pricey. Pretty much any K engine cat is very expensive due to the down pipe and dual bed setup they have. The down pipe has that dual wall, dual path setup.
 

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New one on me. No wonder they are pricy. Corner on the market not much competition. I would get a second opinion on the code.
 

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All cats are expensive for several reasons, the precious metals,

platinum, palladium, rhodium, cesium and there's a couple of new ones too. Look up the price per ounce of these. Some OEM cats can carry an ounce of each or more.

There's only 3 catalyst manufacturers worldwide. They all (oem and aftermarket) get their beds and cat bodies from pretty much the same place. Price is only determined by the amount of metals within and size of beds.

Aftermarket cats, by design are not required to be as efficient as oem, usually 30% for NOx and 70% for HC and CO, vs 98% NOx and 99% for HC and CO. This is why many will almost immediately code efficiency. They don't have the oxygen storage capacity or reduction and conversion abilities.
They don't have to have the same warranty, and the connecting pipes don't have to be corrosion resistant as the 409 stainless oem cats are, only the shells do.

Many older cars have less strict cat efficiency monitors than newer cars do.

Here's examples:

1997 Lincoln Continental, cats no good, get a bs labeled OBD2 cat from an aftermarket exhaust company for $600 (is a Y pipe with 2 cats), flunks 1 bank within a week. The next 3 from the same company do the same thing. OEM is obsolete, and listed at the time for 3500, the CA CARB certified cat is avail to be shipped from CA for almost $4000! Car is junk, as it can't pass any emissions test in the Northeast.

2003 Ford Econoline Van 5.4 V8, driver ran it on misfire bad enough to melt 1 side primary cat (Y pipe) and send melted junk into primary large under body cat. Price of Y pipe, $1200, price of very large underbody cat, $3150.

Any Ford Escape V6, close coupled cats at each bank. These suffer from coil failure and misfires. Melts usually both front cats, sending pieces into rear cat destroying it. 3 cats are just under $3000.

Toyota Tacoma pickup, has 2 under body cats, both are monitored via sensor after second cat. Both cats list for $2400.

Toyota Sienna V6 mini van, has 3 cats, front 2 are monitored, Toyota has updated them, you can replace 1 bank at a time, each lists at $1400.


On the OP's car, how much oil does it consume? I'd want to see fuel trim values at idle, 2500 no load, and cruise at 45 light load. Also, any exhaust leaks, even the tiniest can cause a cat code. Rarely a poor performing rear sensor (monitor) that doesn't code can cause false P0420.
 

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i saw one for $150 that's not expensive ..or are we talking about more pieces of it. i'm talking about the part with the heat shield that always falls off.
 

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knight,
which car? the V6 or I4? The V6s ore cats from Honda are about $250 each online. The underbody cat is a little less.

The 4 cylinder cat, however is about $600.

The one under the car is the one that tends to lose the shields the most.
 

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the I4 underbody..saw ranging from 100 to 250..500 from honda...but it appears the cheaper ones need to be welded??? that's way beyond me skills..
knight,
which car? the V6 or I4? The V6s ore cats from Honda are about $250 each online. The underbody cat is a little less.

The 4 cylinder cat, however is about $600.

The one under the car is the one that tends to lose the shields the most.
 

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Carpe Diem
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Grab a Magnaflow direct fit cat. Only a couple hundred bucks and any exhaust shop should be able to put it on in an hour or so.
 

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He's from NY, which has a strict emissions test. The magnaflow cat, unless it carries a california CARB EO number, probably won't satisfy the computer's catalyst monitor.
 

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Carpe Diem
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It says its legal in every state but CA.

"Please Note (Per Federal Standards): If you're in California and you have a California Registered vehicle you must search our California Catalog. If your vehicle is registered outside of California please search our 49-State (USA) & Canada Catalog."

http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalyti...al=49 State&make=HONDA&model=ACCORD&year=2007

It's on several sites for $272. Can't beat that.
 

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More than likely it will not keep the light off for long.
 
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