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Selene's Official Modification Thread ('99 Accord LX)

87101 Views 878 Replies 58 Participants Last post by  enne
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Okay, I figured it was time to get my car's thread out of the introduction board so people will actually see my updates, haha. If a mod or admin wants to move this to a more appropriate board that's fine; I thought because it's a 6th gen it would get the most views in the 6th gen board.

Anyway, I'll start with photos of the process of my dad and I plasti-dipping the entire car, from OEM Flamenco Black Pearl with sun damage and chipping/a replacement hood that was green to graphite black pearl over gunmetal gray plasti-dip. It's not perfect but I think it looks a lot better than when I got it. The photos and text below are re-posted from my intro thread but I wanted to get them in here as well. I'll be posting updates on Selene in this thread from now on.

Taping off, base coat, grey and top coat with pearl:






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So as you can see, dad and I (mostly dad) got Selene dipped over the weekend. The finish came out a bit textured, especially on the roof, and I believe that was a combination of the sprayer not being quite powerful enough and/or my dad's never painted with plasti-dip before, haha. He was spraying a little too far away where he had a hard time reaching on the roof and center/top of the hood. I don't care about that though, I think it looks awesome! I kept the bottom trim and front Honda logo original (I taped off the whole front emblem). The rear 'H' came right off, and I have to peel the dip off the Accord emblem because I didn't want to risk breaking it trying to take it off. I stuck it back on there a few weeks ago with metal/glass adhesive and it would have been a battle trying to get it off. I have to put the LX emblem on as well, but I'm probably gonna try badge glue on that, or E6000.

Prep:

We taped it off and wiped it down very, very thoroughly with denatured alcohol before painting. My dad's first job was taping off cars to be painted, actually, haha. Before that we did body work: filled a rust hole in the left rear wheel well facing the door and primed it, you can't tell there was ever a hole there now. Filled in gouges on the hood and bumper from a truck backing into it; couldn't get it all but it looks a hell of a lot better. Filled in some little rust holes on the hood as well. I sanded the clear coat that was chipping down/off where I could with a little motorized disc sander. Hand-sanded the sun damage under the passenger side windows, rust on the rear passenger door and a little round rust spot on the driver door. That came right off, it was only surface rust left from [apparently] a magnet that was left on the car.

Plasti-Dip:

We used two gallons of black, one gallon of gunmetal gray, and two gallons of top coat: one gallon of clear that had 25g of hyper black graphite pearl mixed in and the other by itself. We didn't use all of the paint. We put on three tack coats of black, two wet, two or three wet coats of gray, one tack coat of clear and then the rest of that gallon and about half a gallon of the other clear. The wet coats used about a quarter to a third of a gallon each so I think we got the ratio down. I would have liked to get more coats on but dad has a bad shoulder and he could only take so much painting.

Anyway, since the hood and roof came out textured, I might go back up to my parent's place this weekend and try giving it a gentle misting in naptha with the spray gun and see if that evens out the texture. We had xylene to clean the paint gun and mixing stuff, but I knew they stopped recommending xylene to thin dip with.

The hood was my fault. I tried taking a swing at painting and I royally effed it up, haha. But dad fixed it as best he could. You can barely tell by looking at it in person that there's a bit of striping near the top. The photo I took doesn't have great lighting and from the angle it's at you can totally see it. Maybe this weekend I'll go up and practice with the gun so I can do it myself next time, or we can take turns. I stayed in the garage and mixed up the paint and was on air hose patrol while he was walking around the car painting. Dad couldn't believe the color actually came out "looking like the pictures" I showed him back when I was still contemplating it. The color was almost exactly what I pictured in my mind. I wish it was more glossy but we could always add more later. I'd have to fix the texture first.

I took this photo right after putting some Dip Coat Protective Spray on her. I actually applied it with paper towels so we didn't do too terribly with the texture. It only grabbed the paper on the hood and roof a little. Otherwise it went on pretty smooth. If I had a microfiber towel I probably would have had less trouble.


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I don't know if they are. You'd think they would have told me something that important when they replaced them.

Or maybe they just figured I'd come running back to pay them more money to "fix it" once it started squeaking again.

It took them almost a week to call me back when I left them a message about the failed oil change they did on my Cavalier. I told them I was going to fix it myself after a few days went by with no call-back, and that I didn't have time to drive there and wait for them to do it. They are open 7:30-5 and closed on weekends, which means unless I take a day off or work from home, here's no way in hell that's happening. I know they won't give out a loaner for an oil change, so screw it.

This is why I drive a hundred miles each way so my dad and I can fix stuff on my cars. We do it right the first time. Any trouble I've had from a repair was because someone at a garage screwed it up: awful smell because they left a sticker on the exhaust manifold when they installed it, burnt spark plug wire causing alarming misfires and shuddering, damaged oil pan bolt(s), over-torqued drain bolt, over-filled oil, and now this. Even if it's not technically a defect, they could have at least told me the bushings need grease once in a while. I hope that's all it is.

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https://vimeo.com/187102944

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^^^^ Video not available.
Weird. I'll have to re-upload it from my PC later.

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Got the full spare in the trunk's spare well. It only sticks up a tiny bit. Yay for space!



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So the squeaking in the suspension is gone, and has been replaced by a popping/clunking sound on the driver's side when the passenger side of the car goes slowing over a deep hole or bump. Ugh.
End links are loose.
End links are loose.
That a bit unsettling if they're just now coming loose two months after being installed...hopefully it'll be safe enough until Saturday morning. Guess I should have dad order a set of end links...unless a dab of Loctite would help the current ones stay in place?
Time to bail out on all these rescue missions and get a new(er) car. You have pissed off so much money it's not even funny. Do you have even ONE proper car out of the three you have purchased? Time to look hard in the mirror girl and think about all of this.
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^^ Thats just quitter talk.^^ You can cinch the bolts back down on the endlinks in about ten minutes (if you have ramps) chances are they have been FUBAR ed by running around loose though. Most of your car trouble seems to be fallout from other people "working" on them, if you're going to quit anything, i would choose that.
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There IS a time to quit.....realizing it is the tough part.
There IS a time to quit.....realizing it is the tough part.
Depends. She seems like the type that makes a budget and knows exactly what she has in each car.
Is she spending more than what the car payment on a nice used car would be? Don't forget the bump in insurance for newer car with full coverage.

If I was going to give up on a car, it wouldn't be over endlinks. 30 minute job and the parts are cheap.
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Replacing end links is cheaper and easier than going to the bank, getting a loan and buying a new car...way cheaper. I've spent less than 1/3 on this car, including routine maintenance and tax/registration/insurance than if I were simply paying off a brand new Accord and not putting any other money into it. And from what I've seen on here the newer ones seem to have much more serious problems, recalls and peeves than mine has ever had.

Not only that but if I were to buy a new one, I wouldn't be able to work on it because of how hands-off they're trying to make cars nowadays. And I'd have to rely on someone else to fix anything that went wrong, which is literally the cause of most of my problems here.

The links are back to squeaking this morning. I pushed on the fender and it made no sound when I left for work. Then as I was pulling into the parking lot, it started groaning again. I got out, pushed on the same fender, and sure enough it squeaked. Weird.

I'm never going back to that garage. I thought I could trust them and they effed up my Cavalier doing an oil change, and now this is going on. How could they have come loose after two whole months of driving? It's just odd to me.

Dad had a lot of engine work last weekend so we didn't get to looking at Selene. But I'm heading back up on Saturday and he said we'll take a look at them. He wants to just replace them and it's probably best to just do that at this point, I don't know what's up with these but they're not doing their job anymore lol. And may be damaged like mentioned earlier.

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If we want to get technical, here are some rough numbers on what I've spent on all three combined.

$4,200 on repairs and maintenance

$2,500 on purchase, tax, title, registration and insurance

$1,900 on cosmetic things I didn't need, but wanted

Most of the repairs are from fixing/replacing things other people broke or damaged, haha. If the cars were in better shape that number would be much lower, but considering they're all over 14 years old, not too horrible, I think. No major failures, breakdowns, plague outbreaks or explosions that I didn't take measures to prevent.

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Keep in mind that the end links are only on thing that might clunk. It seems odd that you just had them replaced and now they're making noise. I supposed it might happen if they weren't torqued properly but they shouldn't need any lock tite. It could also be sway bar bushings, ball joints or tie rods, or maybe shocks too.

I wouldn't give up on the car. It's a lot cheaper than a new one, and if you love the car, why not?
Considering the shop I took it to can't torque a drain bolt correctly I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't torque the bolt correctly. Or they might have even not gotten the right size bushing. Maybe the bushing got torn or stretched somehow. I don't know.

And yes, Selene gets priority because she's my first car and she has lots of sentimental value.

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A squeak when you hit bumps is most likely the sway bar bushings in conjunction with the loose/bad end links. End links on their own won't squeak, generally speaking, they will knock or clunk as the bar tries to articulate and the bad/loose links give way. If you haven't replaced the bushings on the sway bars ever, or recently, I would look at replacing them with polyurethane, they cost a little more, but last a LONG time and can actually improve handling.
It's squeaking and clunking now. I almost considered stopping in at the shop that did the bushings to show them what was going on, but I had a doctor's appointment to get to today before 5.

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If we want to get technical, here are some rough numbers on what I've spent on all three combined.

$4,200 on repairs and maintenance

$2,500 on purchase, tax, title, registration and insurance

$1,900 on cosmetic things I didn't need, but wanted

Most of the repairs are from fixing/replacing things other people broke or damaged, haha. If the cars were in better shape that number would be much lower, but considering they're all over 14 years old, not too horrible, I think. No major failures, breakdowns, plague outbreaks or explosions that I didn't take measures to prevent.

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You left out insurance for all of these rides. And at that....is it liability only or full coverage? What is the cost of that? Talented Dad or not one must realize when it is time to bail out. Just my thoughts.
$2,500 on purchase, tax, title, registration and insurance. Minimum Pennsylvania coverage. About $600 biannual for all three, rounded up to the nearest hundred. My next payment is due in a few weeks, and since I only pay in full, it's about that much for 6 months; that amount is not included in my current totals as I have not paid it yet. Since all of them are older and relatively common up here, replacing damaged panels and other parts is, more often than not, cheaper than paying extra premium for comp and collision.



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