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Selene's Official Modification Thread ('99 Accord LX)

87108 Views 878 Replies 58 Participants Last post by  enne
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Okay, I figured it was time to get my car's thread out of the introduction board so people will actually see my updates, haha. If a mod or admin wants to move this to a more appropriate board that's fine; I thought because it's a 6th gen it would get the most views in the 6th gen board.

Anyway, I'll start with photos of the process of my dad and I plasti-dipping the entire car, from OEM Flamenco Black Pearl with sun damage and chipping/a replacement hood that was green to graphite black pearl over gunmetal gray plasti-dip. It's not perfect but I think it looks a lot better than when I got it. The photos and text below are re-posted from my intro thread but I wanted to get them in here as well. I'll be posting updates on Selene in this thread from now on.

Taping off, base coat, grey and top coat with pearl:






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So as you can see, dad and I (mostly dad) got Selene dipped over the weekend. The finish came out a bit textured, especially on the roof, and I believe that was a combination of the sprayer not being quite powerful enough and/or my dad's never painted with plasti-dip before, haha. He was spraying a little too far away where he had a hard time reaching on the roof and center/top of the hood. I don't care about that though, I think it looks awesome! I kept the bottom trim and front Honda logo original (I taped off the whole front emblem). The rear 'H' came right off, and I have to peel the dip off the Accord emblem because I didn't want to risk breaking it trying to take it off. I stuck it back on there a few weeks ago with metal/glass adhesive and it would have been a battle trying to get it off. I have to put the LX emblem on as well, but I'm probably gonna try badge glue on that, or E6000.

Prep:

We taped it off and wiped it down very, very thoroughly with denatured alcohol before painting. My dad's first job was taping off cars to be painted, actually, haha. Before that we did body work: filled a rust hole in the left rear wheel well facing the door and primed it, you can't tell there was ever a hole there now. Filled in gouges on the hood and bumper from a truck backing into it; couldn't get it all but it looks a hell of a lot better. Filled in some little rust holes on the hood as well. I sanded the clear coat that was chipping down/off where I could with a little motorized disc sander. Hand-sanded the sun damage under the passenger side windows, rust on the rear passenger door and a little round rust spot on the driver door. That came right off, it was only surface rust left from [apparently] a magnet that was left on the car.

Plasti-Dip:

We used two gallons of black, one gallon of gunmetal gray, and two gallons of top coat: one gallon of clear that had 25g of hyper black graphite pearl mixed in and the other by itself. We didn't use all of the paint. We put on three tack coats of black, two wet, two or three wet coats of gray, one tack coat of clear and then the rest of that gallon and about half a gallon of the other clear. The wet coats used about a quarter to a third of a gallon each so I think we got the ratio down. I would have liked to get more coats on but dad has a bad shoulder and he could only take so much painting.

Anyway, since the hood and roof came out textured, I might go back up to my parent's place this weekend and try giving it a gentle misting in naptha with the spray gun and see if that evens out the texture. We had xylene to clean the paint gun and mixing stuff, but I knew they stopped recommending xylene to thin dip with.

The hood was my fault. I tried taking a swing at painting and I royally effed it up, haha. But dad fixed it as best he could. You can barely tell by looking at it in person that there's a bit of striping near the top. The photo I took doesn't have great lighting and from the angle it's at you can totally see it. Maybe this weekend I'll go up and practice with the gun so I can do it myself next time, or we can take turns. I stayed in the garage and mixed up the paint and was on air hose patrol while he was walking around the car painting. Dad couldn't believe the color actually came out "looking like the pictures" I showed him back when I was still contemplating it. The color was almost exactly what I pictured in my mind. I wish it was more glossy but we could always add more later. I'd have to fix the texture first.

I took this photo right after putting some Dip Coat Protective Spray on her. I actually applied it with paper towels so we didn't do too terribly with the texture. It only grabbed the paper on the hood and roof a little. Otherwise it went on pretty smooth. If I had a microfiber towel I probably would have had less trouble.


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Only one of my wheels has a deep road rash in it, it was there when I bought the wheels. They all have knicks here and there, but they were $100, I didn't expect brand new condition lol. The hub caps were a little banged up then, but they got worse over time. I'm not sure how those two in the photo got the way they did. I probably nailed the curb a few times and dented them somehow (not sure how I only hurt the caps, maybe because they're plastic and the wheels are harder than that?).

I doused the new caps with wheel cleaner and then blasted them with a pressure washer, so I think they'll stay on. I'm just afraid of scraping one off if I hit a curb

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Why can't they make tires and wheels so your tire gets the curb rash first and not the wheel? :dunno:
Freeway center dividers and K rails usually are wider at the bottom, so if you drift into it your tires graze it first, not your fender or bumper.
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Since I have 15" wheels, there is a bit of a buffer via the tire sticking out a hair more than the wheel edges. But any more than a slight bump, and the tire squishes inward lol.

When I parallel park, I try to bump the curb with the back edge of the rear right tire, cut the wheel all the way to the left and then let the back of the front right tire bump the curb, then I know when to straighten the wheels out. That way the wheels don't touch the curb, while still being close to it.

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I remember the parallel parking trick I learned at the driving school:

1. Pull your car right beside the car in front of the spot you want to take.
2. Shift to R, and go back in a straight line until the middle of your car(B pillar of most Sedans) is at the rear of the car beside you.
3. Turn your steering wheel clockwise for one complete circle, and keep going back until you can't see the curb in the right side mirror.
4. Turn your steering wheel all the way left, and keep going until you car is parallel with the curb.
5. Adjust as necessary.

I find this trick to not work very well in my Accord, but it works very well on my RX-8. I have no idea why...
6. Tilt your right side mirror down so you can see the curb when parking.
6A. Works a whole lot easier if you have the electric control mirror.

Judging distance from my rear bumper to the front of the car behind me?
This is when I wish for a backup camera. :yes:
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6. Tilt your right side mirror down so you can see the curb when parking.
6A. Works a whole lot easier if you have the electric control mirror.

Judging distance from my rear bumper to the front of the car behind me?
This is when I wish for a backup camera. :yes:
Rear cameras are one of the few items I like on newer cars.
6. Tilt your right side mirror down so you can see the curb when parking.
6A. Works a whole lot easier if you have the electric control mirror.

Judging distance from my rear bumper to the front of the car behind me?
This is exactly what I do, I use the side mirror to see how close I am to the curb. Then I just turn around and look out the back window to see how close I am to the car behind me.

I can't use backup cameras. The perspective throws me off...I'd rather use my eyes. When I had that '15 Altima I tried to use the backup assist feature, but I ended up being like a foot from the side of the curb, lol.

This has been my MPG of late. Though, I would like to have the valves adjusted and the injectors cleaned, after seeing how dirty the engine block was. I need to get in there with some real degreaser and a couple of brushes...I need to order more dip-safe cleaners too. I love the Blou wheel/tire cleaner spray; I can blast the entire area and not have to worry about my dip getting stained.


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Anyone else remember curb-feelers? Oh God, I am sooooo old.
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Anyone else remember curb-feelers? Oh God, I am sooooo old.
Not only the curb feelers but the rear tire skirts they were attached to:D
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Just bought one of those wood grain center console panels, a new console tray and shifter knob. Gonna dip the console panels in AirWrap. It won't have that texture like the LX console panel does, the wood grain panel is smooth and glossy.

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Is that what that thing is?
I've always wondered about that as well!
It is actually a evaporative cooler, called a "swamp cooler" a lot like having a water mist in front of a large fan. They were popular from the late forties until AC became more common in the 50's and 60's. Packard was the first company with an air conditioned car in, believe it or not, 1940! This is doing very little to make me feel any younger LOL
It was popular in the Southwest where there was high heat but low humidity. Does not work as well in high heat high humidity. They held about a gallon of water which was good for 100 to 150 miles. It did not work unless you were moving.

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Thanks for the history lesson, folks ;)

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It was popular in the Southwest where there was high heat but low humidity. Does not work as well in high heat high humidity. They held about a gallon of water which was good for 100 to 150 miles. It did not work unless you were moving.
We actually learned how mist cooling works in a mechanical engineering course.

Other than not working well in the humidity weather(because the dry bulb temperature is so close to wet bulb temperature), there is a limit on how low the temperature can be, and that is theoretically the wet bulb temperature of the environment. A simple way to find the wet bulb temperature is just strap a wet piece of cloth to the tip of a thermometer and swing it around a couple of times, and then take the reading.

Cool to see this was actually used a long time ago. In my memory, my first encounter with mist cooling was in Shanghai Expo back in 2010, and they actually equipped a lot of mist cooling devices at bus stops in Shanghai now.

Sent via MHA-L29. Whatever.
It is actually a evaporative cooler, called a "swamp cooler" a lot like having a water mist in front of a large fan. They were popular from the late forties until AC became more common in the 50's and 60's. Packard was the first company with an air conditioned car in, believe it or not, 1940! This is doing very little to make me feel any younger LOL
My grandma had a swamp cooler when I was a kid. It helped a little in the dry "Santa Ana" conditions but not it was not great.
My "new" center console, tray and shifter knob have arrived. The console has tiny swirl marks all over it, and a few deeper scratches, from what seems to have been normal use so I am going to try polishing it by hand with Meguiar's #205 (finishing polish) and a white or green polishing pad. I figure, that is a very gentle polish, so I probably won't hurt the finish even not knowing much about polishing. And then, I'll have polish for Harlock's paint.

The only experience I have with sanding/buffing/polishing are headlights, which I'm getting pretty good at by hand, and model car painting, which I'm not so great at yet
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