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My understanding is the Walker 16370 is for the ULEV engine. I would double check with an email to them to be positive as the documentation goes both ways. $142 on Amazon with free returns.

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Discussion Starter #702 (Edited)
How about cutting out the old one and welding in a replacement unit?
Wouldn't it be easier to buy a new one and just replace it? I don't understand.

I don't trust RockAuto's information on any of their cats so I'm going to have to call a dealer and get a part number or something. Sons Honda's part lookup seems to be useless, all the sudden. I need to know the EXACT part number for the 2.3 F23A4.
 

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Discussion Starter #704 (Edited)
That's great, but it doesn't tell me what engine number it's for :/ That's what I need to confirm. I need the one that fits the F23A4. There are two different catalytic converters for the 6th gen 4 cylinder.

Apparently these are the OEM numbers according to an old forum post:
18160-PAA-L21 is the part# for ULEV catalytic converter
18160-PAA-305 is the part# for non-ULEV cat
18160-PAA-L40 for the SULEV

However, from a post I made 2 years ago over this same issue, it's this:
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Catalytic Converter
Engine Code F23A4; ULEV
OEM PN: 18160-PAA-L20
Source:
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~converter~18160-paa-l20.html?Make=Honda&Model=Accord&Year=1999&Submodel=&Filter=(bt=4,400;et=4,5)&Location=pd:2817585,2
Converter 1999 Honda Accord 4 Door LX (UL); KL 4AT
Honda Part No.: 18160-PAA-L20
(Notice the higher than usual price, indicating the ULEV model.)

Which one is it? JFC...

I'm going to just get under the car, look at where the o2 sensor port is, and buy one that looks like it. Screw it. I'm over this.
 

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The difference I noticed in the specs was the location of the O2 sensor and the length. If you go by the spec on the Walker part #16370 is the length is 15.5 inches and the sensor is in the middle.

I believe there is another Catalytic converter that is longer in length about 17.5 inches.

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Discussion Starter #707
I cleared the codes again just in case the P0420 was tripped due to the new upstream sensor possibly not being "broken in" enough to give proper readings yet. I'm rationalizing to myself, I know. The o2 sensor and sensor heater readiness monitors pass after a drive cycle now, so it's definitely the correct sensor. The old one would never pass the readiness check.

I will probably take it in for inspection next week, have them actually check the temperature of the cat (to confirm whether or not it's really the cat causing this code), and if it is bad I'll let it fail emissions inspection. That way I'll get an emissions waiver due to the fact that I've spent over $150 on emissions repairs already. Then I'll buy a new catalytic converter when I have the money to do so.
 

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You are allowed 2 subsytems to be not ready for an emissions test for autos from 1996 - 2000. I would get it tested while the catalyst is still not ready but all other tests are complete. You can not pass the test with a MIL and a code.

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Discussion Starter #709
"For model year 1996—2000 vehicles, a status indication of ‘‘not ready,’’ ‘‘not supported’’ or similar message for two or fewer other readiness codes may be disregarded for readiness determination purposes only and the OBD-I/M check can proceed."

On the Torque app it shows 3 monitors that say "Not Supported" so I am not sure if I could get away with one also being "Not Ready". That would be 4 monitors that aren't ready or supported. So if their OBD scanner has more than one of those "Not Supported" ones, it'll fail with the catalyst one not being ready...

I guess we'll see. I'm taking her in on Tuesday.
 

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Are you using the free Torque app, or did you buy Torque Pro? Torque Pro has a ton more features than the basic free version. One of those features may tell you with more details what's going on with your car in regards to the "not supported" readings.

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Not all cars have certain emissions subsytems (ie secondary Air system) , you should be able to pass with up to 2 subsytems not ready. This is for 1996 - 2000. 2001 and newer you can only have 1 not ready. As long as you do not have a code set you should be good. This assumes you pass the visual inspection, that the Catalytic Converter is still installed and has not been removed.

BTW what monitors are showing ‘‘not supported’’? My guess is you do not have them.

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Discussion Starter #712
Are you using the free Torque app, or did you buy Torque Pro?
It's Torque Pro.
Not all cars have certain emissions subsytems (ie secondary Air system) , you should be able to pass with up to 2 subsytems not ready. This is for 1996 - 2000. 2001 and newer you can only have 1 not ready. As long as you do not have a code set you should be good. This assumes you pass the visual inspection, that the Catalytic Converter is still installed and has not been removed.

BTW what monitors are showing ‘‘not supported’’? My guess is you do not have them.
I agree, I don't think my car has the ones that say "Not available" on the display below, but the rules clearly say you can't have more than two that are either "not ready" or "not supported" :/ So I guess it really depends on what the emissions testing equipment has as far as these monitors. I'm guessing something like the A/C refrigerant doesn't really matter, and most likely isn't on the emissions testing equipment, lol
516872

(This is from an old scan, it's not what my car currently displays. Currently, they are all green except the Catalyst, and the Not Available ones.)
 

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Yep, you do not have those systems. Do not let the catalyst readiness test complete. If you drive spirited heavy on the gas and brake and do not do steady cruise above 55 it shouldn't go ready.

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Yep, you do not have those systems. Do not let the catalyst readiness test complete. If you drive spirited heavy on the gas and brake and do not do steady cruise above 55 it shouldn't go ready.

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This sounds like each and every single one of my drives, lol.

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Discussion Starter #715
I kinda can't drive [under] 55 on my commute unless I want to get run over lol. Maybe I'll work from home Monday/Tuesday, and not drive her until I take her over to the shop for inspection.
 

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This sounds like each and every single one of my drives, lol.

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Drive like you stole it. LOL

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Discussion Starter #718 (Edited)
At the inspection station now. I will update with results. Her CEL has not lit and the catalyst readiness monitor hasn't completed yet so hopefully she just passes.

Edit: she passed!

516930


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Discussion Starter #719
I'm considering registering her at my parents' address, which is in a county that does not require emissions testing. If I move to NJ in the next year or two, they do emissions-only inspections every 2 years. So it's either yearly safety-only, or emissions-only every 2, the former of which seems easier to me due to this P0420 code.

The Prelude I'll register in NJ since it wouldn't require any inspection at all (not that it's unable to pass, it's just annoying to have multiple cars inspected every year and it's not like I drive it that much anyway).

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Discussion Starter #720 (Edited)
Welp, Selene's radiator is leaking.

I would be suspicious, but a few weeks ago, I saw what I thought was smoke coming from the front of the car, but chalked it up to "it must have come from the exhaust of the car in front of me, it's cold out". But today I confirmed without a doubt it is coming from Selene's front end, specifically the radiator area. Cap and upper hose connection seem fine, I think maybe it's coming from further down somewhere in the front. Could have been punctured by a rock possibly (like an AC condenser)? I'm not sure. Never had to replace the radiator on a car before.

In any case it is a very small leak, and she isn't running hot (checked with the Torque app), so hopefully I can keep her on the road for a few more days until I can get parts in.

Luckily, RockAuto has a Denso OEM replacement for $54, and AC Delco upper and lower hoses for about $9 each. As far as I know, it's all original equipment, so it may very well be in need of replacement. The hoses are probably fine, but they're so cheap, I might as well replace them while they are off the car anyway.

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Didn't get a chance to check the coolant level yet because I just discovered it about an hour ago. I'll check the level after work when it has had a chance to cool.

Parts have been ordered, should get them by Monday. Total was $89.85 with shipping and a discount code.
 

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