[only-one]

I am aiming for the Bando serpentine belt, but also looking at getting a new belt tensioner. What brands from Rock Auto are goods ones to look at (I have a i4) ?

eta: not sure if it makes a difference, but my car is a japan build

thanks

 

[evident]

Bando might be good for the serp belt as they are the OEM mfr for this car. I had a terrible experience w/ Gates. did not fit right. I bought an OEM tensioner.

 

[only-one]

Thank you

 

[2003EX]

I am aiming for the Bando serpentine belt, but also looking at getting a new belt tensioner. What brands from Rock Auto are goods ones to look at (I have a i4) ?

eta: not sure if it makes a difference, but my car is a japan build

thanks

If you can find INA, Schaeffler, or Litens belt tensioners (multiple names for the same brand), I would go that route. I have had good luck with those in the past.

 

[rowell]

I'm just curious, are you having any issues with the belt/tensioner?

I just put in a new alternator on mine, tensioner seemed to be in great shape as did the belt I put on a few years ago (Can't remember what brand it was). I like to go for pre-emptive maintenance but couldn't find an excuse to justify replacing it yet. 130,000 miles here.

 

[only-one]

@rowell Nothing specific on the tensioner, have 200k+ and figured might be a good idea since the belt is being replaced.

@2003EX, thank you. I did see ina on the list. I'm attaching a screenshot of the options

With the oem they had 2 different ones, 1 for the Japan built. Which is why I wondered if the ones I'm seeing will work.

 

[only-one]

This picture is based on the Japan oem part #

 

[JTCJTC]

I simply left the original OEM tensioner on there. It has been on there for a long time now, with no issues. I believe OEM tensioners last a lot longer than they are given credit for.

 

[JTCJTC]

Sorry, dup entry by accident.

 

[X686016]

Im in the same boat as jtcjtc, except i replaced the pulley on the oem tensioner about 2 months ago, i got the SK89016 pulley (under idler pulley, except we dont have one). Old pulley was bad and i couldnt see anything weong with the tensioner, wasnt getting loose at all. As for the belt, well i live on a tight budget so i went with the skp serpentine belt. Ive put on so far about 4000 miles on both and they are holding up well.

 

[qman]

I swapped out two tensioners (2003 and 2004 I4 Accords) and both originals were still in great shape. The springs and bearings in both were solid. I didn't swap it out in the 2005.

 

[only-one]

So unless there is an issue leaving the original is ok? .. It was thought to change it due to the miles for peace of mind type of thing.

 

[frogvtec]

After putting on the new belt, check the tensioner reading. If it's in middle of bar of where it's supposed to be, you should be good.

 

[mtts60]

So unless there is an issue leaving the original is ok? .

Yes. If the tensioner and/or belt fail suddenly, all you do is cost off to the side of the road. No engine damage occurs.

 

[only-one]

Thanks for all the feedback, we will just change the belt, going with the Bando brand . Looks like 7pk1781 is the one for the car

 

[qman]

Removing and replacing the belt is simple so do this. Take the belt off the tensioner and spin the pulley. If the bearing is still solid and quiet then fuhgetaboutit. Otherwise get a new one. When the bearing dries out and starts to fail you'll hear it. If the spring is failing the tensioner will bounce hard. Like I said, I have two of them in my tool box that are still in great shape. One of them had over 200,000 miles on it.

 

[only-one]

Removing and replacing the belt is simple so do this. Take the belt off the tensioner and spin the pulley. If the bearing is still solid and quiet then fuhgetaboutit. Otherwise get a new one. When the bearing dries out and starts to fail you'll hear it. If the spring is failing the tensioner will bounce hard. Like I said, I have two of them in my tool box that are still in great shape. One of them had over 200,000 miles on it.

Thank you

 

[qman]

You are welcome.

If you lived in Colorado Springs I'd give you one of the used tensioners.

 

[75Gremlin]

250k on original tensioner. Recently replaced the pulley bearing (easy job) even though there was no bearing noise. On examination, turned out the bearing was definitely drying out.

This was the replacement bearing part I used (4 cylinder engine ): Koyo 6203 2RS. Good quality bearing.

Idler Pulley Removal and Bearing Replacement:

A-007: DIY: Idler pulley & tensioner pulley BEARING change - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

Plan to leave the rest of the tensioner as is until the indicators for the tensioner spring show it is out of spec.

 

[only-one]

Got the belt replaced, tensioner & pully looked good. Thanks again for all the feedback 🙂