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AC6DN
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1,519 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I looked into changing the serpentine belt. I found it, to hard to change it myself...
I had to pay someone to do it. I'd describe it as undo-able on the road.
Main issues: Space too tight (smaller than the belt), too confusing routing, would take two people, to do hold the tentenier, and route the belt, at the same time.
Not good.
 

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19 Posts
Hi,

I looked into changing the serpentine belt. I found it, to hard to change it myself...
I had to pay someone to do it. I'd describe it as undo-able on the road.
Main issues: Space too tight (smaller than the belt), too confusing routing, would take two people, to do hold the tentenier, and route the belt, at the same time.
Not good.
The belt is relatively easy to do once you set the tensioner. For one person can i suggest removing the wheel arch line. Get a 3 inch thick piece of wood about 3 to 4 inches long. From within the wheel arch put your socket and ratchet onto the tensioner with the ratchet as horizontal as you can in the space and then pull your ratchet to move the tensioner to the belt release position. Your ratchet handle as it comes down towards you will come past tge vertical and travel clockwise up to the 9 oclock positiion. The handle will have travelled above and past a horizontal crossmember of the car body where you can sit the piece of wood and let your ratchet handle come back towards the 7 oclock position until it sits on the wood. This keeps your tensioner locked in the release position so you can place your belt.
 

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Banned
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30 Posts
Man, I had all kinds of problems with the belt on my son's Honda. Ordered a belt from rockauto; slipped it on no problem. Started squealing like crazy on hard turns and whenever you touched the defroster. Ran to AutoZone to grab a new one. Couldn't get that thing on there to save my life. Figured they gave me the wrong one, so returned it and grabbed one from Advance. Couldn't get that thing on there to save my life.
Routing was easy. It was the part of trying to squeeze the belt onto the last pulley. Tried a couple of different pulleys to no success. It's like the belt was way too short, or else I didn't crank the tensioner to the max (maybe I didn't put the ratchet at the correct starting position or something). Ran the car to a shop and they threw it on. Squealing stopped. The guy said it appeared that the one from rockauto was just a hair too long and the tensioner was maxed out trying to place tension against it, which would explain why it went on so easy and yet felt snug, but would then squeal like nuts with any kind of load.
Anyways, I hope I never have to screw around with that belt ever again is all I can say.
 

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Just here for the food
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1,871 Posts
They go on/come off quite easily on my 7th gen with this tool (for the tensioner).
Wish I had this when I did the serp on my 8th gen haha. Adding it to my birthday wish list so I can do my 9th gen’s belt soon. I made it work with my breaker bar (17”?) and a 4” piece of PVC pipe. It took some elbow grease and a couple of Sprites but it worked out lol
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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1,093 Posts
Hi,

I looked into changing the serpentine belt. I found it, to hard to change it myself...
I had to pay someone to do it. I'd describe it as undo-able on the road.
Main issues: Space too tight (smaller than the belt), too confusing routing, would take two people, to do hold the tentenier, and route the belt, at the same time.
Not good.
Yeah, impossible with bare hands, as with any automobile work.

It's pretty easy with proper tools, either serpentine belt tool or long box wrench or long ratchet w/low profile socket.
You should route the belt first, leaving 1 pulley off (either the tensioner pulley or PS pulley), then press the tensioner enough to loop it on. I think leaving the tensioner pulley is the easiest.

Definitely doesn't take 2 people.
 

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90 Posts
Yeah, impossible with bare hands, as with any automobile work.

It's pretty easy with proper tools, either serpentine belt tool or long box wrench or long ratchet w/low profile socket.
You should route the belt first, leaving 1 pulley off (either the tensioner pulley or PS pulley), then press the tensioner enough to loop it on. I think leaving the tensioner pulley is the easiest.

Definitely doesn't take 2 people.
Did the same thing. Pre-routed the belt then pushed on tensioner with a socket, ratchet and extension pipe to make it easier to push. No added cost for tools. Takes about 20 minutes unless one changes all pulleys on the engine.
 

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AC6DN
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1,519 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone...

The guy who did it for me, started at the top and used a chip bag clip on the top pulley, to keep the new belt on there, as he routed it, as he went downward. He took the wheel and well cover off, as well as jacked the car up for more room...
 

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4 Posts
Would you guys recommend changing the Idler Pulley, Tensioner & Water Pump when changing the Serpent/Drive Belt.

I have a 2010 Honda Accord EX.

Please advise
Thank you
 

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Super Moderator
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6,211 Posts
Serpentine belt change on the J series V6 engine is extremely easy with the $15 serpentine belt tool from Harbor Freight. You don't need to remove the passenger side front wheel or the splash shield at all. The key is keeping the belt on the crank pulley while you route through the rest of the pulleys. Also, it's good to unwrap the belt before the job and let it hang for an hour so it straightens itself out. The issue is the belt comes folded and it stays in that odd shape while you try to install it.
 

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AC6DN
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1,519 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I decided it was beyond me. While the 8 year old belt looked a little rough, it might have been usable for the another year, that it would take to get to 100K, were every thing around there (timing belt etc), would need to be changed.
 
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