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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Skunk2 just released their Alpha series race header for the 8th gen I4 Accords. Just like all of Skunk2's Alpha headers, these are designed to offer maximum power gain at an affordable price. Starting with the large 4 inch bellmouth design with 3 inch outlet is manufactured from high quality cast stainless steel for superior heat resistance and strength. No worries about cracking or porosity like common cast iron manifolds. Skunk2 uses heavy duty 1/2” thick flanges to ensure secure and leak free attachment to your head and cat-back. Smooth, mandrel bent T-304 stainless steel and a high quality stainless steel braided flex section mean you get maximum air flow and power.

The one piece design eliminates the need for multiple exhaust flanges which increases flow, eases installation, and eliminates a few points that could be future failure points for exhaust gaskets. O2 bungs are also included for the OEM sensor locations, and a CEL eliminator is provided for the secondary O2 sensor so you won't get a CEL from removing the catalytic converter. No modifications are needed as it is a direct bolt-on unit to the OEM exhaust cat-back location.

If you have any questions feel free to contact us, or check out the header on our site here for a special sale price.
www.proimporttuners.com/parts/honda/accord-skunk2-alpha-header

 

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2010 EX 4dr VTEC 2.4L
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I thought headers are a finish up mod for cars with big turbos... How would this benefit the i4?
 

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this connects to the 2nd cat correct? also, what intake manifolds do you guys have that will fit the 08 accord i4? i may do that in the future. i know the 2012+ civic si guys use an adapter to fit aftermarket manifolds, so it should work with our engines as well..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
frankiebusa said:
wonder if this would be raspy.. hmmm
It will eliminate the manifold cat, but if you still have your under-car cat it will bolt up to that so it won't be too raspy.

tkdboi said:
I thought headers are a finish up mod for cars with big turbos... How would this benefit the i4?
By freeing up the exhaust flow out of the head, and through the initial section of exhaust the motor has to work less just to push the exhaust out. This means you get more power and increased airflow at upper RPMs. For those of you looking for a good power mod, it's a great addition to a car that already has an intake and exhaust.
 

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2010 Honda Accord EX
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Is this solely for the coupe or will it work equally well on the sedan?

Scott C.
 

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2010 EX 4dr VTEC 2.4L
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It will eliminate the manifold cat, but if you still have your under-car cat it will bolt up to that so it won't be too raspy.



By freeing up the exhaust flow out of the head, and through the initial section of exhaust the motor has to work less just to push the exhaust out. This means you get more power and increased airflow at upper RPMs. For those of you looking for a good power mod, it's a great addition to a car that already has an intake and exhaust.
Appreciate the thorough clarification. So would I see a noticable power increase in my i4 sedan if I have the high flow cat, and takeda sri?
 

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yea youll feel and hear a big difference. just make sure to do at least 2.5 inch piping after the high flow cat. otherwise youll have a big bottleneck in pressure and it will sound ricey
 

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port & polish everything
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this has a 3 inch outlet, you'll need a big exhaust to match.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is this solely for the coupe or will it work equally well on the sedan?

Scott C.
Yes, this is for the coupe or sedan.


outersquare said:
this has a 3 inch outlet, you'll need a big exhaust to match.
Actually, a 2.5" works quite well. The exhaust cools down significantly as it leaves the head. The cooler the exhaust, the denser it is. So having a 2.5" catback works out pretty well to maintain exhaust velocity to keep the torque up while still giving good top end gains.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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Think RV6's solution is cleaner. This one looks like it was put together with scrap elbows and they're charging the same as RV6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The Skunk2 uses a cast bellmouth to eliminate cracking at the welds which is common on welded flanges at the head. Also, since the Skunk2 header fully eliminates the cat, there is no second piece to buy like the RV6, so it comes out cheaper that way.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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The Skunk2 uses a cast bellmouth to eliminate cracking at the welds which is common on welded flanges at the head. Also, since the Skunk2 header fully eliminates the cat, there is no second piece to buy like the RV6, so it comes out cheaper that way.
Ah, you misspoke then when you said:

It will eliminate the manifold cat, but if you still have your under-car cat it will bolt up to that so it won't be too raspy.
I thought it looked a bit too long to just remove the precat.

I'll also have to check, but I believe RV6 uses a cast flange too: "- 304 Stainless cast flange sections".
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ah, you misspoke then when you said:



I thought it looked a bit too long to just remove the precat.

I'll also have to check, but I believe RV6 uses a cast flange too: "- 304 Stainless cast flange sections".
Yes, that was my bad. Having to answer questions from the product releases is not always the easiest thing to do.

This is a full race header that will eliminate both catalytic converters.
 

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port & polish everything
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Yes, this is for the coupe or sedan.

Actually, a 2.5" works quite well. The exhaust cools down significantly as it leaves the head. The cooler the exhaust, the denser it is. So having a 2.5" catback works out pretty well to maintain exhaust velocity to keep the torque up while still giving good top end gains.
So if this is a full race header, how do you bolt this up to a smaller exhaust without creating a mismatch?
Which exhaust funnels down from 3" to say 2.5"? This would not work well on the stock exhaust at least.
 

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Seems a lil pricey for a single pipe no? what do you guys think?
This is a good price if it's a full race header, you wouldn't have to buy a secondary cat or test pipe. It saves you atleast $100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So if this is a full race header, how do you bolt this up to a smaller exhaust without creating a mismatch?
Which exhaust funnels down from 3" to say 2.5"? This would not work well on the stock exhaust at least.
This is a good price if it's a full race header, you wouldn't have to buy a secondary cat or test pipe. It saves you atleast $100.
A 3" to 2.5" pipe is only a 1/4" lip all the way around the exhaust, so while it isn't optimal, it isn't as bad as many people think. Especially since the 3 bolt flange shares the same spacing as the stock flange, so any aftermarket system will bolt up. And your're right, no other parts need to be purchased for it to be installed.
 

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i have to admit this is pretty awesome especially for a supercharger set up but running this with just an intake and/or exhaust will not do much but lose you some back pressure. you'll prolly gain a couple ponies but lose mid & low end power. the k24 is low compression, 3inch outlet seems just too big.
 
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