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Hey I know it's not Honda he's talking about, but they could get them from the same place. I've had to throw one out myself because it wouldn't screw back on. Also I had to replace 4 that rusted because THE DEALER put them back on with an air gun. Should I think about getting solid steel lug nuts? You know the wheels are plastic so maybe the lug nuts are too.
 

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CVtwo
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Sounds like a Ford problem, over 20 years of owning Hondas and I can’t say I’ve ever had a lug nut issue
 

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Yes, the dealer and pretty much everyone else just airguns the lug nuts to the generally accepted industry standard of 1 zrrt (approx. 3/4 brrts metric).

They all have torque wrenches, but it's usually saved for botching more expensive jobs.
 

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Look at your lug nuts and decide for yourself.
 

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Ha this explains my shameful experience with a friend’s Ford Focus. Now I’m relieved that it wasn’t my inability, but his car :)

Basically, he called me for help that morning, saying he got a flat tire and didn’t know what to do. We live just a few walks away, so I went to guide him on replacing a spare tire. Then we got into trouble: those lug nuts were impossible to take off with the wrench tool stored in spare tire well.

I went back home to get my 12V Xtreme impact wrench and 19mm socket. With 200 lb ft of breakaway torque, it failed to take off that nut.

I went back home again to get my 17” breaker bar, which I believe could yield at least 300 lb ft of torque by an adult male’s foot. Still, it failed to take off that nut.
 

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I went back home to get my 12V Xtreme impact driver and 19mm socket. With 200 lb ft of breakaway torque, it failed to take off that nut.
Lug nuts will need something with at least 1000 lbft breakaway. Yes, the tightening torque is just 80 so thinking 200 breakaways should be more than enough is logical, but it does not work like that.

Use a 1/2" impact wrench. A 12V impact driver is for hanging shelves around the house.
 

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Lug nuts will need something with at least 1000 lbft breakaway. Yes, the tightening torque is just 80 so thinking 200 breakaways should be more than enough is logical, but it does not work like that.

Use a 1/2" impact wrench. A 12V impact driver is for hanging shelves around the house.
Actually it can. I made a typo— it is an impact wrench and has been successful in removing my 80 lb ft lug nuts.

Not sure where your number of 1000 lb ft is quoted from.
 

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Not sure where your number of 1000 lb ft is quoted from.
This bad boy for example is rated at 740 fastening torque / 1,180 breakaway according to the manufacturer.
531254

This or something similar has a chance against stubborn lug nuts. 1000 is what I learned by experience. 200 will set you up for embarrassment in front of your neighbor.
 

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Every Honda I've owned they delaminate, rust and generally look like shit. I've even had the top pop off once or twice (barely welded on there, same design as the Ford's referenced above), but the structural portion of the nut has always held up. I've always blamed this on the issue @emeron so aptly described.

At home, I use my 1/2" cordless M18 Fuel impact wrench with a 19mm non-marring brass socket to remove them, and a torque wrench to reinstall, but unfortunately I don't always haven't time to do my own maintenance.
 

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This bad boy for example is rated at 740 fastening torque / 1,180 breakaway according to the manufacturer.
View attachment 531254
This or something similar has a chance against stubborn lug nuts. 1000 is what I learned by experience. 200 will set you up for embarrassment in front of your neighbor.
Be careful. I have sheared off lug bolts before using just a long pipe for leverage. An argument for using antiseize though highly controversial.
 

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Be careful. I have sheared off lug bolts before using just a long pipe for leverage. An argument for using antiseize though highly controversial.
I chock the wheels and gently break loose the lugnuts on the ground with a breaker bar, then lift the car. Similarly torque them down with the car on ground with a torque wrench (the "amateur enthusiast" way), but in a commercial setting you just zwerp zwerp zwerp and move on because you gotta do ten more cars before lunch. Jussayin to have realistic expectations from a 29.99 quick lube & tire rotation package.
 

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I chock the wheels and gently break loose the lugnuts on the ground with a breaker bar, then lift the car. Similarly torque them down with the car on ground with a torque wrench (the "amateur enthusiast" way), but in a commercial setting you just zwerp zwerp zwerp and move on because you gotta do ten more cars before lunch. Jussayin to have realistic expectations from a 29.99 quick lube & tire rotation package.
In incidence that I described above, the lug nuts were torqued manually by myself, but somehow seized after 6 months of a harsh winter season. Sometimes, corrosions happen. Simiilarly, earlier this year, my mountain bike front through axle seized up in spite of it being manually tightened personally. I am leaning towards using anti-seize more liberally.
 

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Every Honda I've owned they delaminate, rust and generally look like shit. I've even had the top pop off once or twice (barely welded on there, same design as the Ford's referenced above), but the structural portion of the nut has always held up. I've always blamed this on the issue @emeron so aptly described.

At home, I use my 1/2" cordless M18 Fuel impact wrench with a 19mm non-marring brass socket to remove them, and a torque wrench to reinstall, but unfortunately I don't always haven't time to do my own maintenance.
I owned Hondas since 76, never had any problems, mind you I am changing/removing wheels myself
 
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