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Pilot without a plane
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My drive belt tensioner started rattling recently. Normally, I'd replace it myself, but since I'm away from home, and need to drive 5000 km back I'm gonna have the local dealer do the job. I don't want to throw the belt and be stranded in the middle of nowhere. Winter and snow is starting to take over the highways too. They quoted $460 CAD, which is $220 in parts and 2 hours labour. It probably doesn't take that long, but otherwise the price seems reasonable. Video of rattling below:

When mine started rattling, I got one from Autozone. It stayed quiet for a few days. Then the Autozone one did the same thing. Swapped it out with another Autozone one. After my third Autozone tensioner, I got a refund and went to Advance Auto. Theirs rattled after a few days. After two from Advance, I got a refund.

Went to our local Pull A Part junkyard and pulled an OEM one off an Accord. That one has been fine for a couple of years. I will use OEM next time if I have to replace it again.

I guess I got pretty practiced at swapping the tensioner from all of that. Two hours would be very liberal in the shop's favor for swapping it out.
 

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When mine started rattling, I got one from Autozone. . .
Just FYI everyone. When the tensioner starts to go you don't have to buy a new one. One option is to just replace the bearing in the pulley.

 

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I don't think that just the pulley bearing would fix it. It's not making noise all the time. In my video you can see the tensioner itself jumping around when the noise happens. I assume that has something to do with the spring inside. You can see that the tensioner is quiet under low load but then the fans kick on, increasing the load on the alternator, and by extension, the drive belt and tensioner.
 

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ziptie princess
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it was 55 when i left for work and my extremely florida car struggled to start and then idled at 1800 rpm, which i’m sure my neighbors loved

idk what it would do if it was ever actually cold, the heat barely works for some reason and it stumbles between gears until it’s warmed up, it’s the most hilariously cold-blooded car i’ve owned in years
 

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V6 6MT CBP
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it was 55 when i left for work and my extremely florida car struggled to start and then idled at 1800 rpm, which i’m sure my neighbors loved

idk what it would do if it was ever actually cold, the heat barely works for some reason and it stumbles between gears until it’s warmed up, it’s the most hilariously cold-blooded car i’ve owned in years
Well, the bonus is that 20 degree cooler than normal weather should net you a good 3-5HP!
 

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Rattling comes from the tensioner, not pulley bearing. But its not critical to immediately replace a rattling tensioner. I let it go for over 3 years :D. The AC Delco branded tensioner sold on Amazon/Rock Auto is OEM. I got a new open box on amazon for <$40.
 

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Got the belt and tensioner done today. The job was quick, so the dealer only charged me 1hr of labour instead of the 2 they initially quoted. Very honest of them, it actually surprises me. For only 1 hour of labour, having them do it was well worth the money.
It takes less than 5 mins to change it out.
 

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That's great. Ignoring the hyperbole, I thought I explained my situation pretty well in the last post. I guess I could've added that I have no tools out here, or anywhere to do the work anyways.
i dont have skills, nor knowledge too, let alone the tools. he‘s just toying with ya. at least u found a shop
 

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New heater core valve installed. While I installed a 'new' valve like 11 months ago, I found that one also leaking (a slow drip right at the screw holding the lever). I got the hoses also (they were only like $10 for both) but did not end up replacing them as the original hoses look great still and there was nothing wet at hose connections.

I can't remember where I got the replacement valve last time, but I think it was Rockauto and seeing that it looks different than the OEM Honda one that I got now, I guess it was a different manufacturer. ?‍♂
 

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Later today I'll be replacing the tie rods. Just need the inner tie rod tool at Harbor Freight. I can get it tomorrow for $30 with coupon. The tie rods, tax and shipping came to $35 from Detroit Axle via Amazon. I was looking at Moog parts, but just one outer tie rod was between $23 and $28. So this was a better deal.

517228
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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Later today I'll be replacing the tie rods. Just need the inner tie rod tool at Harbor Freight. I can get it tomorrow for $30 with coupon. The tie rods, tax and shipping came to $35 from Detroit Axle via Amazon. I was looking at Moog parts, but just one outer tie rod was between $23 and $28. So this was a better deal.

View attachment 517228
Why not a trip to AutoZone? They have inner/outer tie rod tools for borrowing.

This style ball joint tool is good for ALL ball joints(incl. tie-rods) on 7th gen. The pitman puller has very limited use.

How do you plan to seal the inner tie rod bellow? If you are careful, you could reuse the original Oeticker clamps.

A digital caliper and a paint marker will be handy to keep the toe as close to original as possible. When I did mine, my toe was still perfect after.
 

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Why not a trip to AutoZone? They have inner/outer tie rod tools for borrowing.

How do you plan to seal the inner tie rod bellow? If you are careful, you could reuse the original Oeticker clamps.

A digital caliper and a paint marker will be handy to keep the toe as close to original as possible. When I did mine, my toe was still perfect after.
Thanks for the info. I'll get a better idea on the bellows clamps when I've taken them off. I may just use cable ties, as that's what seems to come with many bellows now. So you didn't need to get an alignment at all? I'd prefer not to myself. I'd rather keep that money.
 

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WARNING, you cannot cannot use cable ties/zip ties on the inner tie-rod boots, they WILL pop off in no time. I used stainless steel zip ties and they popped off after a single drive with a few turns. You will need the original Oetiker clamps and clamp them on with an Oetiker style clamp with pair of side jaws. The steering rack goes through rather large heat cycles, and the Oetiker style clamps act as a spring at the clamping point that expand and contract with temp changes. The zip ties stay at a fixed position.

You will need an alignment right after if you can't manage to get the outer tie rods back onto the same position. Use a measuring caliper like visionguru said. Use that above mentioned tie-rod separation tool, that's exactly what I used.
 

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ziptie princess
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1,372 Posts
my track car has zipties on the inner tie rod boots and they’ve held up to plenty of street driving and two full track days

maybe it’s the stainless ones that don’t work there ¯\(ツ)
 
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