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Chicago
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Thanks for the info. I'll get a better idea on the bellows clamps when I've taken them off. I may just use cable ties, as that's what seems to come with many bellows now. So you didn't need to get an alignment at all? I'd prefer not to myself. I'd rather keep that money.
I got a 3 year alignment package, expecting doing several suspension items. On the alignment rack, the toe was still borderline within spec, after doing inner/outer tie rods.

Yes, you can DIY toe adjustment and steering wheel centering, accurate enough not ruining your tires. I've done that for years without issues with a laser measure and two boards. However, sometimes it's tedious to do the centering: drive on the highway. Get off to adjust. Then back on the highway, ..... If you haven't done this before, you need an alignment after tie rod replacement.

Here is the OEM Oetiker clamp. The trick to reuse it is: use a screwdriver to spread the pinched portion to release most of the tension, and carefully unhook it by prying up the bigger teeth. When reinstalling, you need to bend the bigger teeth back and use a not-so-sharp cutter to re-pinch the clamp.
 

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7th Gear
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1,541 Posts
Installed Hella Sharp Tone horns into the Accord on Thursday night along with a pair of 6000k hid bulbs into my stock Inspire headlights.

Yesterday I replaced the cubby located double din with the PAC dash kit. It took an afternoon and a lot of patience, but it looks and performs flawlessly. The key with this kit is to make sure to update the firmware and follow the instructions carefully.

After getting new tires and alignment, my tech was unable to get the right rear toe into spec, so I'm waiting on an adjustable toe arm to make things right with that, then hopefully I'm done with this car for quite a while.
 

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Chicago
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...
After getting new tires and alignment, my tech was unable to get the right rear toe into spec, so I'm waiting on an adjustable toe arm to make things right with that, then hopefully I'm done with this car for quite a while.
How come? Is your car lowered or accident in the rear?
The adjustment is about 1/2", that's a lot for toe adjustment.
 

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7th Gear
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How come? Is your car lowered or accident in the rear?
The adjustment is about 1/2", that's a lot for toe adjustment.
I'm unsure as to why. The car is lowered, and I have just installed new aftermarket arms and have had SPC adjustable camber arms for about 2 years now. My tech suggests that perhaps the arm may have been made incorrectly, but I think that perhaps there may have been a bump before I ever owned the car, as it had body repairs prior to my ownership.
 

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I got a 3 year alignment package, expecting doing several suspension items. On the alignment rack, the toe was still borderline within spec, after doing inner/outer tie rods.

Yes, you can DIY toe adjustment and steering wheel centering, accurate enough not ruining your tires. I've done that for years without issues with a laser measure and two boards. However, sometimes it's tedious to do the centering: drive on the highway. Get off to adjust. Then back on the highway, ..... If you haven't done this before, you need an alignment after tie rod replacement.

Here is the OEM Oetiker clamp. The trick to reuse it is: use a screwdriver to spread the pinched portion to release most of the tension, and carefully unhook it by prying up the bigger teeth. When reinstalling, you need to bend the bigger teeth back and use a not-so-sharp cutter to re-pinch the clamp.
Thanks again for the info. I apprecaite your insight.
 

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my track car has zipties on the inner tie rod boots and they’ve held up to plenty of street driving and two full track days

maybe it’s the stainless ones that don’t work there ¯\(ツ)
Track use vs everyday use is totally different and you should not use this as your excuse/proof. please tell us after 50k to 100k miles with no issue, then you can say zipties are fine.
 

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Got a weird shimmy/vibration last night, so today I checked tire pressure- it's been 30 days since I did it last. All four tires were at weird pressures.

I always set all four to 36 psi, but I had:
FRONT WHEELS
Driver 30 psi
Passenger 22 psi

REAR WHEELS
Driver 32 psi
Passenger 30 psi

Dummy tire in trunk 55 psi

I have NO idea what is going on. I had Discount Tire spin balance and rotate the tires 5 weeks ago (free service), and checked tire pressure the next day to make them all 36psi. I also verified the lug nut torque to be at 80 ft. pounds.

I did tell Discount Tire that the driver's front tire had a slow leak the month prior, and was down to 30 psi. I have no idea where THAT wheel/tire wound up after the rotation, but now all four are off.

I will monitor....I had hit some rough potholes the last few weeks- lots of last minute road construction here.....

Anyhow, after setting tire pressure- the car drove as smooth as silk, just don't know why I am losing psi at different rates. Will try the soapy water test tomorrow- particularly on the valve stems and tire/rim bead contact area.
 

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After getting new tires and alignment, my tech was unable to get the right rear toe into spec, so I'm waiting on an adjustable toe arm to make things right with that, then hopefully I'm done with this car for quite a while.
I'm lowered more than 1" with no issues with dialing the toe to zero. And I have just the SPC adjustable upper control arms, to dial in the camber only.

The only reasons that you cannot dial in the rear toe using the OEM eccentric bolt is if an arm is bent or if you are lowered over 2". You should check closely if an arm is slightly bent.
 

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I upgraded my headlight bulbs this weekend from standard Sylvania 9006 to Phillips 9012CVB2. They have a short lifespan (~300 hrs), which I didn't realize when I was placing the order on Amazon, so definitely a downside, but I love how bright and white they are. Actually, I had no idea halogens could be this white.
 

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All four tires were at weird pressures.
Mine was more weird than that. Had a flat yesterday morning. I had to put on the donut and drive home. I squirt the entire wheel with soapy water and the only leak was from the exterior bead in about 4 places. No leak anywhere else. I busted the tire off the rim and there was some black gooey stuff all around it. I took some sand paper and cleaned it all up, remounted the tire and it's holding air now. Never had that happen before for seemingly no reason whatsoever.
 

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I upgraded my headlight bulbs this weekend from standard Sylvania 9006 to Phillips 9012CVB2. They have a short lifespan (~300 hrs), which I didn't realize when I was placing the order on Amazon, so definitely a downside, but I love how bright and white they are. Actually, I had no idea halogens could be this white.
I had poor life out of my 9012 bulbs. I've gone through 2 sets now. First set lasted 1.5 year, second set only 1 year. I'm back to 9006 for the time being because that's all I could get at the parts store.
 

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I had poor life out of my 9012 bulbs. I've gone through 2 sets now. First set lasted 1.5 year, second set only 1 year. I'm back to 9006 for the time being because that's all I could get at the parts store.
If these last me a year, a year and a half, I won't complain. I really like them.
 

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I upgraded my headlight bulbs this weekend from standard Sylvania 9006 to Phillips 9012CVB2. They have a short lifespan (~300 hrs)
I wanted to go with the brighter XV bulbs, but I do too much driving at night. I'd burn thru them quickly. I just use the regular 9006. With new headlights that aren't foggy looking, I still get people flashing their brights at me thinking I'm on bright.


I put on new brakes, some undercoating, and sound deadening mat. More details over in my thread in the photo gallery.
 

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I got a 3 year alignment package, expecting doing several suspension items. On the alignment rack, the toe was still borderline within spec, after doing inner/outer tie rods.

Yes, you can DIY toe adjustment and steering wheel centering, accurate enough not ruining your tires. I've done that for years without issues with a laser measure and two boards. However, sometimes it's tedious to do the centering: drive on the highway. Get off to adjust. Then back on the highway, ..... If you haven't done this before, you need an alignment after tie rod replacement.

Here is the OEM Oetiker clamp. The trick to reuse it is: use a screwdriver to spread the pinched portion to release most of the tension, and carefully unhook it by prying up the bigger teeth. When reinstalling, you need to bend the bigger teeth back and use a not-so-sharp cutter to re-pinch the clamp.
Are those OEM clamps expensive? Why not just get new ones?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Not really, $5 each. But new ones will need a specialized tool, old ones (if removed carefully) only need a diagonal cutter.
That makes sense. I’ve never dealt with one so I didn’t know why not to get OEM, other than just being resourceful.


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