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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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4023 lbs, good lord
We flew to North Carolina for Thanksgiving. At the airport, the rental car company ran out of cars. The lady asked: "would you like a pick up truck?". I said no. Then she found me a Nissan Armada, pretty much a tank, V8 and 6000 lbs.
 

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ziptie princess
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We flew to North Carolina for Thanksgiving. At the airport, the rental car company ran out of cars. The lady asked: "would you like a pick up truck?". I said no. Then she found me a Nissan Armada, pretty much a tank, V8 and 6000 lbs.
yeah, i drove plenty of those as a valet, they’re hefty lads

also just about twice as heavy as my old cherokee (~3100lbs), which is kind of hilarious?
 

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Yup. I bought two keys off Amazon for $13. Ace Hardware charges $30 and $40 to cut and program it. Can't remember which costs how much.

If you do this you need to bring all of your keys to them because all of them have to be programmed at the same time.

Here's the key I bought.


Thanks man. Curious about just cutting the key (no programming). How much would it cost to just cut?
And it's okay if I just bring the Valet Key to them right?
 

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Spent the weekend on my son's 2007 i4 5MT.
First off - replacing blown headlight bulb - of course - the drivers side low beam - yep - the one you need to remove the battery to replace. Replaced all 4 on his mom's car too - they were getting weak. (and sure looked it when pulled)

Second - diagnosing his crappy gas mileage and occasional P0171. O2 sensor was replaced a month ago when we got the car - original had failed. P0171 = super lean - normally due to an air leak after the MAF. Freeze Frame data showed high short and long term fuel trims, consistent with an air leak. We found the inlet tube was badly torn and replaced it last month - but did not resolve the issue. Can't find another inlet leak.
So
Pulled plugs - they look normal to white (lean).
Let's go for a drive and watch the fuel trims and upstream O2 sensor.
Scanner on - watching Fuel Trims - normal, normal, normal, STFT jumped to +49%. Youch - no wonder it's sucking gas. When the STFT reading jumps, the O2S1 readings follows suit.
Back to the garage. What else affects fuel trim?
Swapped MAF with mom's car. Drive, no change.
Checked PCV valve and all hoses again - normal.
Disable EGR valve, another drive, no change. Still runs at normal levels for the first couple of km, then STFT jumps to max and LTFT starts to climb. Stays there for a while, then back to normal, then jumps.... Does not seem to be RPM related (intake vaccuum) - no change between 3rd and 5th gear at same speeds. No difference between driving hard, driving easy.
Smoke test again - no leaks at idle. But the fuel trims are normal at idle and even at speed - for a while - then shift to max after a few mins - then back, then again. Comes and goes - no real pattern. What can it be???
How about we swap the O2 sensor from yours? - Sure. Took mine for a drive to warm it up, and watched trims and O2 levels. Normal for the whole drive.
Swapped my O2 sensor into his car - normal all the time. Problem gone.
Moral of the story. Just because a part is new, does not mean it might not be bad. We were focused on the inlet air / air leak and ignored the O2 sensor as it was just replaced. Turns out the O2 sensor was flakey - and it was triggering the STFT jump, not the other way around. Problem solved. Enough for one day. My car will sit with an open bung hole for a couple days until I can pick up a replacement.

Sunday - replaced his clutch master cylinder. Every once in a while clutch pedal would stay down and not come up. Pull it up and it would be back to normal. Not stranding him, but not something to live with for long either. This is not one of my favourite jobs. Done it 5 times now across multiple cars, including a run of 3 bad replacement parts on the my car 2-3 months apart. I'm getting faster at it, but it's still not fun. CMC seems to be a weak point. CMC had already been replaced on this car and here we are doing it again. My car was on its third when I got it. And a good friend had the same fail on hers. Honda parts don't seem any better than replacements, Anyway - it's done now. Hopefully he gets another 100k out of this one - not looking forward to ever having to do this job again. (said that last time too)

I must say - troubleshooting is a lot easier when you have 3 cars to swap parts between. And even ugly replacement jobs are easier when every car you work on is the same :)

Overall - successful weekend with my son. And, he used 40% less gas going home 4hrs into the prevailing winds than he did coming here with a good tailwind. Yes!!
 
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Why would you just bring a valet key to them?
I think the black fob I have remaining still works. Is the immobilizer built onto the circuit board or housed elsewhere?

I basically wanna get a blank key cut, and swap the inside circuit board, the one housed inside the black fob. Would that work?
 

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That might work. Depends on how the blank and original clamp in the cutting machine.

I wonder if you could use your valet key to put into your fob. Or you can just remove the key from the fob and put the fob and valet key on a key ring. I bet that would work also.
 

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That might work. Depends on how the blank and original clamp in the cutting machine.

I wonder if you could use your valet key to put into your fob. Or you can just remove the key from the fob and put the fob and valet key on a key ring. I bet that would work also.

I hear ya. I gotta wait till amazons price drops, lol. It shot up to like $70ish.
 

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Followed this thread to learn how to replace the starter switch... and while at it, I also replaced the starter relay. The car would not start the other day but after trying a few times (and hearing buzzing) - it started. So yeah, that's now done...
 

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Roll Tide!
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we just love to see it, don’t we folks?
not a fan of seeing people getting screwed. i prefer to do the screwing. my porter cable drill does okay when needed, but then i've got the big impact driver for the tough stuff.
 

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HK Moderator
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^well, at least it is not the sidewall.

FYI: I recently found out that Discount Tire repairs their flat tires for free
 

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If those are both punctures, the tire might not be repairable with a combination repair unit (aka the good kind of tire plug). They look too close together.

As for me, I started mine up today and was greeted with the MIL and P0141 - Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Malfunction. I'm happy it's not something more expensive/difficult/serious.

Currently researching the diagnosis procedure, and OEM Denso ($250 CAD) vs aftermarket Denso ($50 CAD), or other aftermarket sensors. The post above (#14,066) suggests to go OEM, but I'd have to get 5 faulty aftermarket for that to make sense. But then there's the downtime of constantly swapping them, and time is money too.
 

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ziptie princess
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not a fan of seeing people getting screwed. i prefer to do the screwing. my porter cable drill does okay when needed, but then i've got the big impact driver for the tough stuff.
i miss my good rattlegun

^well, at least it is not the sidewall.

FYI: I recently found out that Discount Tire repairs their flat tires for free
the closest discount tire is in like... west palm beach, and i'm not sure i want to drive over an hour on this thing. four miles to work and back is fine.

which sucks, because i bought this from discount tire and have a warranty and everything.

If those are both punctures, the tire might not be repairable with a combination repair unit (aka the good kind of tire plug). They look too close together.
i was going to just plug them myself but i just remembered i have warranties on all four tires and they're basically new still so it doesn't have to be my problem
 

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If those are both punctures, the tire might not be repairable with a combination repair unit (aka the good kind of tire plug). They look too close together.

As for me, I started mine up today and was greeted with the MIL and P0141 - Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Malfunction. I'm happy it's not something more expensive/difficult/serious.

Currently researching the diagnosis procedure, and OEM Denso ($250 CAD) vs aftermarket Denso ($50 CAD), or other aftermarket sensors. The post above (#14,066) suggests to go OEM, but I'd have to get 5 faulty aftermarket for that to make sense. But then there's the downtime of constantly swapping them, and time is money too.
I went through the same logic with my O2 (front) sensor.
NTK for $260 at NAPA/ Partsource / Cdn Tire, NTK $160/Denso $133 on Amazon, all kinds of knock offs for $50-60. For $100 difference- let's give it a shot.How bad could it be?

Result - Cost me a day of troubleshooting, about $60 in extra gas burned the month it was acting up in the car, and I still ended up buying the $133 Denso. At least I sent the PoS back and am being refunded my original $60.
 
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I went through the same logic with my O2 (front) sensor.
NTK for $260 at NAPA/ Partsource / Cdn Tire, NTK $160/Denso $133 on Amazon, all kinds of knock offs for $50-60. For $100 difference- let's give it a shot.How bad could it be?

Result - Cost me a day of troubleshooting, about $60 in extra gas burned the month it was acting up in the car, and I still ended up buying the $133 Denso. At least I sent the PoS back and am being refunded my original $60.
I called around today.
Dealer: OEM Denso $316 CAD
NAPA/Partsource: Aftermarket NTK $120 CAD
Indy Parts Store: Aftermarket Denso $140 CAD
Amazon/Rockauto: NTK & Denso both ~$70 CAD

I went with the Denso (234-4797) from Amazon. Free next-day shipping, so I can get it done on Saturday. But seeing your post now makes the price seem too good to be true. I hope it's not counterfeit. It's sold by Amazon, not a 3rd party.
 
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