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Mine was the upstream sensor - the wide band one. Denso 234-9040 @$133.
Downstream is a lot cheaper. (I see Denso 234-4797 @ $62.05 with free shipping to me in Eastern Canada)

DO NOT BUY the sponsored GERMBAN part!!!
 

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The Denso 234-4797 sensor arrived today. Right off the bat I can tell that it's not identical to the OEM Denso part (36532-RAA-A02). It's missing the provisions to clip the cable into the stock mounts under the car. But I guess there have to be some compromises when the part is 5x less expensive than OEM. I'll try transferring the mounting provisions from the old cable, but they're crimped on so it'll take some improvising tomorrow.
 

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07 Sdn
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343 Posts
My downstream Denso sensor was the 234-4363 one, because California Emissions. No clips either, but it did come with a new rubber grommet.
 

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Changed out the serpentine belt, idler, and tensioner last eve. Went with the Gates kit from RockAuto. Idler pulley was slightly off when combined with the stock hardware; had to space out the hardware from the pulley with appropriately sized washers. NTN bearings were present in the pulley wheels, same brand as the OEM PS pump bearing I received from the dealer not too long ago.

Thanks to my father in law for the boxes of crap he couldn’t throw away. Those jars of washers have come in handy many times!!:)
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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Changed out the serpentine belt, idler, and tensioner last eve. Went with the Gates kit from RockAuto. Idler pulley was slightly off when combined with the stock hardware; had to space out the hardware from the pulley with appropriately sized washers. NTN bearings were present in the pulley wheels, same brand as the OEM PS pump bearing I received from the dealer not too long ago.

Thanks to my father in law for the boxes of crap he couldn’t throw away. Those jars of washers have come in handy many times!!:)
The idler pulley on Gates tensioner is different from OEM. The big washer doesn't fit. I think the main purpose of the washer is a dust shield to prevent stuff from getting into the bearing.

I once ordered Gates and returned for that reason, then got an new Acura OEM instead for $40 on eBay. After replacing it, I found that there is nothing wrong the old tensioner. You might want to keep the old tensioner around just in case.
 

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The idler pulley on Gates tensioner is different from OEM. The big washer doesn't fit. I think the main purpose of the washer is a dust shield to prevent stuff gets into the bearing.

I once ordered Gates and returned for that reason, then got an new Acura OEM instead for $40 on eBay. After replacing it, I found that there is nothing wrong the old tensioner. You might want to keep the old tensioner around just in case.
Keeping it around for that exact reason. I spaced out the big concave dust shield washer from the bearing with other washers. All alignments are spot on and there is no rubbing so I just went with it.

Spinning the old OEM piece, one can feel the end was near! Not a lot of noise when on the car, but quite notchy and dry.
 

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Swapped the downstream O2 sensor today. The old one was seized in there good. It sucks working on jackstands for something like this, because you can't position your body correctly to get the best leverage. The hex started to round using the O2 sensor socket, so I cut the wires, and used a 1/2" drive deep 22mm socket with a 24" long ratchet. That did the trick. Some of the posts I saw on here were right in saying that you can't get at the connector without undoing the passenger seat, so I did that. Super easy after that.

One thing I didn't see mentioned on here, but listed in the FSM, is that the front seat bolts need thread locker when re-installing. So in the name of safety, don't skip that step.
 

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That did the trick. Some of the posts I saw on here were right in saying that you can't get at the connector without undoing the passenger seat, so I did that. Super easy after that.
I didn't undo the seat. I just slid the seat all the way forward and got at the connector from the back seat floor. I don't recall it being an issue.
 

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Took our 2007 SE with 102k on the clock to the dealer today for a loud exhaust. Service rep called back and said the A pipe was bad and offered me the option of waiting a day for a genuine Honda part at ~$800 installed or ~$600 today for an aftermarket pipe. To me, it was a no-brainer and I authorized the aftermarket part. An hour later, the rep called me back. He had a hunch and ran the part through the Honda database. Turns out the A pipe is warranted for 15 years or 150,000 miles. So if I wait a day for the genuine Honda part, there is no charge. Who knew?
 

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ziptie princess
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sounds like bs to me. @qman would go to wallymart, buy a tire repair kit, and fix it in the parking lot.
i have a repair kit in the back of my car, but these tires only have a couple thousand miles on them and i have a warranty so like ¯\(ツ)

i’ll call discount tire in the morning and start a claim, in the meantime i should probably figure out a spare i can actually use since i don’t have stock lug nuts anymore
 

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Pilot without a plane
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Finally got my window master switch installed. After receiving two of the wrong switches from Summit, I ordered thru Hondapartsnow. More details on that in my thread in the photo gallery.

Installed new OEM switch. Windows operated, but driver's side didn't operate with auto function and key fob didn't work.

Looked at procedure to swap module from old switch to new switch. Swapped modules, but my remote on key fob didn't work. Used the attached window reset procedure to get auto function working. Thanks Princess

Searched for procedure to get key fob working. Thanks Slade

Note:
Entering the programming mode cancels all learned keyless remotes, so none
of the previously programmed remotes will work. You must reprogram all of the
keyless remotes once you are in the programming mode.

You must complete each step within 5 seconds of the previous step to keep the
system from exiting the programming mode.

1. Turn ignition switch to ON (II)

2. Press the LOCK or UNOCK button on one of the remotes. (An unprogrammed
remote can be used for this step.)

3. Turn ignition switch to LOCK (0)

4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 two more times using the same remote used in step 2

5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II)

6. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button the same remote. Make sure the power door
locks cycle to confirm you are in programming mode.

7. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on each remote you want to program. Make sure door locks cycle after you push each remote button to confirm system has accepted the remote.

8. Turn the igniton switch to LOCK (0) to exit programming mode.

9. Test remote(s)
 

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Installed the new upstream O2 sensor in my Accord to replace the one moved to my sons car a couple weeks ago. Simple and easy and working as expected. Only unpleasant part was lying in the slush to get it installed, cause there was no space in the garage to work on it.

While I had it jacked up - checked my passenger side Lower Ball joint. Been hearing a bit of a clunk and feeling a little steering movement there so replacing it has been on the books for a bit. Yep - it's bad - real bad - I guess that job just moved up the list. I'll need to push on my son to get some of his projects done and out of my garage so I can get the Accord in. Don't want to be doing a LBJ out in the driveway in the snow and slush.
 

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I got a P0139 which is something about "downstream O2 sensor responded slow".

From what I'm reading it can be a few things. Has anyone else had it and had to fix it?
 
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