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First thought is the brakes pedal switch. Also, the ground inside the trunk, verify it is in good shape and everything looks tight and no corrosion.

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The switch is working, cause the cruise cancels with brakes, and you can shift out of park. Not sure if electrical portion of it may be bad though.

That said, car is not driveable now. Brakes got stuck, and caught on fire. Right side on fire, left side smoking, but no flames. Not joking.

We are allowing it to cool for a few hours, then take my car to get all parts for brake job.

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The switch is working, cause the cruise cancels with brakes, and you can shift out of park. Not sure if electrical portion of it may be bad though.
It wouldn't surprise me if the brake pedal switch has two 'halves', one for the cruise and unlocking the shift solenoid, and another for the brake lights.
 

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It wouldn't surprise me if the brake pedal switch has two 'halves', one for the cruise and unlocking the shift solenoid, and another for the brake lights.
The new switch didn't work...

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Check for voltage at the switch and verify that the switch closes.

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Unloaded the 2004 to my son.

Finally got rid of the annoying brake shake in the front end of the 2005. I had taken that crap apart 3 times and cleaned everything and couldn't get rid the shake. Put new pads and rotors and that did it.
 

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subtract 261000 miles to get engine mileage
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So, replaced all brake components on front of car. Brakes still dragging badly.

Next up: master cylinder.

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subtract 261000 miles to get engine mileage
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Whatchu mean "dragging"?
Like, dragging to where brakes are overheating.

Not as bad as yesterday

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Whatchu mean "dragging"?
I looked it up on urban dictionary, but can't repost it here. At least they didn't clap back.

Did you make sure both of the pins moved freely in and out of the bracket on each wheel? I had one that acted like it moved ok, but with just a little friction. After I got everything back together and road tested it, I had to pull it back apart and buy a new bracket and pin kit. That was a couple brake replacements ago.
 

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subtract 261000 miles to get engine mileage
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I looked it up on urban dictionary, but can't repost it here. At least they didn't clap back.

Did you make sure both of the pins moved freely in and out of the bracket on each wheel? I had one that acted like it moved ok, but with just a little friction. After I got everything back together and road tested it, I had to pull it back apart and buy a new bracket and pin kit. That was a couple brake replacements ago.
I was not the one who worked on the vehicle. I'll have to find that out.

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subtract 261000 miles to get engine mileage
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Could this be the issue with the brake lights?
20200322_151728.jpg


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subtract 261000 miles to get engine mileage
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^

Did you guys swap out that master cylinder? If brakes work fine but just not light turning on, then it has no relationship to the master cylinder.
Well, brakes aren't working fine yet. Right front still seizing up.

We are closer to home. 1/8 mile away now.

Still no lights either.

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There is a possibility that if the brake fluid is low then the brake light wouldn't turn on. But I cannot confirm that for sure since I've never let it go that far. Get the hydraulic part fixed before you try to fix the electronic part. Seized calipers is downright dangerous especially if it's the front, if the piston seizes compressed inside the bore. Then the piston isn't coming back out to press on the pads. You'll most likely need to swap out the caliper. Corroded piston wall is impossible to fix.
 

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Be sure to check fuse 13 in the under the hood fuse box. Did you check for 12 volts at the brake switch? Then check it at the connector at the C pillar.



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There is a possibility that if the brake fluid is low then the brake light wouldn't turn on. But I cannot confirm that for sure since I've never let it go that far. Get the hydraulic part fixed before you try to fix the electronic part. Seized calipers is downright dangerous especially if it's the front, if the piston seizes compressed inside the bore. Then the piston isn't coming back out to press on the pads. You'll most likely need to swap out the caliper. Corroded piston wall is impossible to fix.
We are going to swap out caliper, and go from there.

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Swapped out caliper. It's still seizing up....

We are stumped. 2 different calipers so far, brake lines flushed, new master cylinder.

Any ideas at all?

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What about an ABS issue? The pump is over on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

Like some weird problem that it's not releasing fluid pressure from that one line to the rt frt.
 
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