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Compliance Bushings SUCK!!!!


After clunking about for a few weeks, since buying my new-to-me 2007, I finally assembled the tools and sat down for some good ol FUN!!

Pop the axle nut, so I don't pull the CV joints apart!
Pop the axle.jpg

Yup, it's TOAST!
Toast.jpg

Wrenchin' in da ghetto!
Ghetto!.jpg

Getting the old one out wasn't that hard.
Halfway There.jpg

But getting the new bastard in!! Holeee Sheet!
The damn thing would worm and squirm and plunge one way or the other. I wound up taking an orbital sander to the edge of the bushing to make a bit of a ramp. Even then it wasn't working. A shot of canned air finally did the trick, freezing the f*****r enough for it to start in an even manner. (Sorry, no pics, I was too wrapped up in the ordeal.)

I also had a touch of trouble getting the driveshaft to pop back into the hub, but jacking the opposite wheel, turning the steering, and gently prying down on the end shank of the axle got it going.

The last challenge was this bastard!
Unholy Bastard!.jpg
I could start the bolt from the left, but the bushing REALLY wanted to push the insert outward. I finally managed to get it in, but my sanity was definitely wavering!
Next time, I'll try very hard to make the procedure work without pulling the bolt on this turkey.

It was during this contest of wills that the necessary sacrifice was made...
Blood.jpg

And before all that fun, a simple change of the
Oil.jpg
 

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Compliance Bushings SUCK!!!!
LOL yup they do. Did you know you can buy the entire control arm with new bushings in it? Memember that next time.

Just the facts.
 
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LOL yup they do. Did you know you can buy the entire control arm with new bushings in it? Memember that next time.

Just the facts.
Well, yea. But the last time I did that, using what I thought were decent aftermarket parts, the alignment went completely out the window. And I really can't justify spending another $500+ for genuine Honda arms.
 

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And I really can't justify spending another $500+ for genuine Honda arms.
I hear ya. I'd never buy Honda anything unless there was no other option.
 
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Had to move the car in lot and noticed a heinous grind from driver side. I thought to myself, oh no, am I low on pads? Took wheel off and noticed a small sized rock wedged perfectly between inner side of rotor and hub shield. 1st time ever seeing something like that. Luckily it was just a rock and discovered before hitting the road. This forced me to examine the driver side of things. Boots look okay, and still have meat on the pads.

Still wanting to drill out rotor screws and do my own pads later, but not sure on the bit. lol
 
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07 Accord Sedan EX V6 Auto
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Got some VHT primer and paint and sanded and painted the Hybrid rear caliper brackets I have. It looks alright, and will hopefully prevent any rust. The only conundrum now is figuring out how to paint the rear calipers, I don't really want to take them off the car and bleed the brake system again.
 

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Pilot without a plane
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Got some VHT primer and paint and sanded and painted the Hybrid rear caliper brackets I have. It looks alright, and will hopefully prevent any rust. The only conundrum now is figuring out how to paint the rear calipers, I don't really want to take them off the car and bleed the brake system again.
I painted all of my calipers with POR15 paint from Amazon. Did them on the car and used a 2" chip (throwaway) brush. Very easy. One little can of paint is enough to do all four calipers on two cars. I've got pics in my car's thread.
 

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Took wheel off and noticed a small sized rock wedged perfectly between inner side of rotor and hub shield. 1st time ever seeing something like that. Luckily it was just a rock and discovered before hitting the road.
Happened to me once on the rear passenger brake. God I wondered what the hell was the noise until I found the rock!
 
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Put the adhesion coat and primer on the new front bumper cover, sanded the primer and sprayed the satin silver metallic base coat on the hood and both fenders, a bit of touch up to do on those parts before spraying the clear. This is one hell of a learning experience spraying silver metallic paint and getting it to look even, primer is easy, can't wait to go through the "learning curve" with the clear coat.
Just like with life, it is the journey, the challenges and learning new stuff.
Photo of the left front fender with the proper amount and final layer of base coat and before clear coat, it aint easy getting silver metallic applied properly. I'm learning a few tricks.
 

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ziptie princess
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replaced my shifter cables, now i have a five-speed instead of a three-speed

also have a cel and coolant leak that appeared after the test drive so that’s exciting

i have a sneaking suspicion that replacing the little rubber boot/coupler on the little resonance chamber that goes to the intake tube from the valve cover caused the cel- the old one was absolutely thrashed, with tons of cracks all the way around and not in the best condition. i'm wondering if maybe i was getting unmetered air through that coupler and the ecu had been trying to tune around it and it just needed to relearn for the new coupler? either way, the light went out after an italian tuneup and the car feels a bit stronger in the low-mid range than i remember.
 

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All in all, not too shabby, especially considering all the challenges with being such a rookie working in a backyard spray booth and using a $60 spray gun. There will be a fair amount of fine grit sanding and polishing out the orange peel, fenders aren't bad, the hood will need a fair amount of work, not a problem. Best part is the new paint is a dead match with both color and metallic level to the existing finish. I tried to catch the right angle in the photos to show both clear coat finish and metallic color, the photos don't quite capture it very well.
 

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Drove 100 mi to my parents' house to swap winter/all-season tires, and forgot the wheel lock key at home... Still a nice Easter dinner though lol
 

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^^ which is why I bought 4 new regular lug bolts for a VW I once had. I didn't want to get caught somewhere without the #$&%^ lug bolt key. (bolts on VW's)
 

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ziptie princess
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obdii scanner showed up today:

p0122 tps switch a circuit low
p0113 iat circuit high

i think since i unplugged both to take the intake tube out, what happened was i accidentally turned the key too far when i put the windows down and the ecu read them as faulty- the freeze frame data showed a bunch of zeroes where there wouldn't normally be. i cleared the codes, so i'll see if they come back.

as for the coolant leak- the radiator is an aftermarket replacement and has the fittings for an auto trans cooler, too. anyone know how i'm supposed to tell if this had the denso or valeo in it originally? or does it not matter at this point?

edit: apparently the answer is "count the fan blades", and i had a valeo originally
 

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Almost ready to hit the road (I've got a new H emblem around here somewhere, just can't find it at the moment) and with the big brake upgrade. FYI, from what I see you don't need go to 17" wheels, I've got the original 16" and there is no problem with clearance.
I do wish I knew how to do "blending" for color transition between old and new paint. When you buy paint they tell you to do color check, it looked to match perfectly with the old damaged fender, but it does have a variation of shade between old paint on the doors and new paint on the fenders. Oh well.
 

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07 Accord Sedan EX V6 Auto
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Almost ready to hit the road (I've got a new H emblem around here somewhere, just can't find it at the moment) and with the big brake upgrade. FYI, from what I see you don't need go to 17" wheels, I've got the original 16" and there is no problem with clearance.
I do wish I knew how to do "blending" for color transition between old and new paint. When you buy paint they tell you to do color check, it looked to match perfectly with the old damaged fender, but it does have a variation of shade between old paint on the doors and new paint on the fenders. Oh well.
Which big brake upgrade, the 6-6 brakes? I think the 6-6 had an option for 16" wheels, the brakes clear the stock 16" fine. However, they apparently will not clear the 15" spare, so if a front tire goes flat you'll need to switch a rear wheel. Also, if you want bigger rear brakes to match, you can use Hybrid rear brakes to get 282 mm discs in the rear, although it probably won't make much of a difference.

As for the paint, looks better than my attempted rattlecan paintjob, you can't see the difference in the photo. I might have to redo my hood with a proper spray gun at some point.
 

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Which big brake upgrade, the 6-6 brakes? I think the 6-6 had an option for 16" wheels, the brakes clear the stock 16" fine. However, they apparently will not clear the 15" spare, so if a front tire goes flat you'll need to switch a rear wheel. Also, if you want bigger rear brakes to match, you can use Hybrid rear brakes to get 282 mm discs in the rear, although it probably won't make much of a difference.

As for the paint, looks better than my attempted rattlecan paintjob, you can't see the difference in the photo. I might have to redo my hood with a proper spray gun at some point.
You would think painting the hood would be fairly easy, with the silver metallic it is not, it's easy to screw up. Having just been through this experiment, if I had to do it again, prep the replacement body parts and take them to a body shop for painting. There is a reason they have paint booths and $700 spray guns. Primer is easy, metallic silver can be tricky, damn clear coats you got to get it right. I did a fair amount of wet sanding down the clear with 1000 grit, then 1200, then 1500 and then on to the 3M system of polishing with three different polishes and buffing pads. It works just like the videos show but it aint cheap.
As for the brake upgrade, I put on the 95 Acura Legend GS calipers and the rotors off the 6-6 7th gen coupe. The rotor size goes from 11.1" and now is 11.8", which doesn't sound like a lot but sure looks bigger on the car. The caliper looks to be slightly larger but there is still plenty of clearance with the wheel, so I don't know who was talking 17" wheels, I don't see the need.
 
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