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Discount Tire will fix any flat for free whether you bought from them or not. I really like my local store and they'll rotate my tires I got from them for free, but I can do it at home in just a few minutes so I do it myself.

Last I knew, Walmart would plug tires for $10. I know places won't do a tire repair if the problem is near the sidewall.
That's good to know. The last 2 sets of tires I got were from America's Tire, which is what Discount Tire goes by in California.
 

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Pilot without a plane
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Hope you removed the check valve in the slave cylinder before installing it!
I read the thread about this the night before I installed it. I did not remove the check valve. I don't drive mine aggressively so I didn't know how much of a difference it would make in my case. Just like I've thought about the rear sway bar upgrade, but I've lived without it this long.
 

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I read the thread about this the night before I installed it. I did not remove the check valve. I don't drive mine aggressively so I didn't know how much of a difference it would make in my case. Just like I've thought about the rear sway bar upgrade, but I've lived without it this long.
It's really worth it even if you don't drive aggressively. The clutch is just much more predictable, and you don't end up with an additional delay when it's cold outside.
 
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Got around to installing rear koni/eibach combo and the fronts last week. Will get the adjustable lateral links and alignment to come. Feels good and happy with subtle drop. I'm sure once it is settled it will be even better.
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07 Accord Sedan EX V6 Auto
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Grabbed an intake manifold off of a 2006 Acura RL. I already have an Accord Hybrid magnesium manifold, but it has vacuum ports in the wrong places, and is completely missing the engine mount vacuum ports, so it's not the best fit. Also, I managed to put a huge crack in the EGR section, you can see into the EGR section looking down the throttle body. It still runs fine and doesn't throw any errors, but still concerns me.

Of course, the RL manifold managed to be even more concerning. It doesn't really look like magnesium, but I thought all manifolds with the 2-piece casting were? I suppose that's a question for @t-rd

Also, the manifold was coked beyond all belief (I suppose it was in the junkyard for a reason, and it shouldn't be a huge hassle to remove). My stock manifold has nothing but a fine, golden brown layer of oil inside it, even the EGR ports have a layer so thin you can wipe it off with your finger, so good to know my engine is very healthy even at 200k miles.

However, the Acura manifold is also full of metal splinters. I have no idea where they came from, there's no chunks missing from the manifold or throttle body, and they were buried under a layer of carbon so it seems like the engine was running with them there for a while.

Manifold after a quick blast with degreaser. Uses the two-piece casting, but still looks a lot like aluminum.
530855

Metal splinters sitting in the bottom of the manifold.
530856
 

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That is the exact same mag manifold I run, I just got one off an 08 Acura RL. You can tell by the weight alone if you still have your original one, the aluminum one is about 8lb to 10lb heavier. I can't say what those metal splinters are. Use oven or grill cleaner and let it soak, the carbon deposit comes off FAST. If you don't want a layer of oil mist caked inside the manifold, then install an oil catch can, it really helps a lot. If you aren't convinced it's magnesium then install it and read the IAT temp, intake temp rises way slower than the aluminum manifold and does not heat soak super fast.

You will need the top cover from Odyssey from around the same years, but the Odyssey one does not have the Honda print on it. I have the top cover from 2008 Accord V6 which does not require butterfly valve deletes. I also polished the inside of the top cover, fuel trim went up nearly 2% due to larger air flow volume compared to before the polish. If you want to delete the butterfly valves off the existing top cover of the RL, you'll lose some air volume with the jagged edges remained inside. Those rubber gaskets for the newer manifolds are great, they do not really degrade much so no need to change it out.
 

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07 Accord Sedan EX V6 Auto
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That is the exact same mag manifold I run, I just got one off an 08 Acura RL. You can tell by the weight alone if you still have your original one, the aluminum one is about 8lb to 10lb heavier. I can't say what those metal splinters are. Use oven or grill cleaner and let it soak, the carbon deposit comes off FAST. If you don't want a layer of oil mist caked inside the manifold, then install an oil catch can, it really helps a lot. If you aren't convinced it's magnesium then install it and read the IAT temp, intake temp rises way slower than the aluminum manifold and does not heat soak super fast.

You will need the top cover from Odyssey from around the same years, but the Odyssey one does not have the Honda print on it. I have the top cover from 2008 Accord V6 which does not require butterfly valve deletes. I also polished the inside of the top cover, fuel trim went up nearly 2% due to larger air flow volume compared to before the polish. If you want to delete the butterfly valves off the existing top cover of the RL, you'll lose some air volume with the jagged edges remained inside. Those rubber gaskets for the newer manifolds are great, they do not really degrade much so no need to change it out.
I've got a HAH mag manifold on my car right now, and a upper plate with the butterfly delete. I just want a manifold with the correct vacuum ports. I'll pull the HAH manifold off tomorrow and compare them, the Acura manifold is lighter than the stock manifold, but not by as much as I remember the HAH manifold being. Maybe they used a different alloy?
 

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I've got a HAH mag manifold on my car right now, and a upper plate with the butterfly delete. I just want a manifold with the correct vacuum ports. I'll pull the HAH manifold off tomorrow and compare them, the Acura manifold is lighter than the stock manifold, but not by as much as I remember the HAH manifold being. Maybe they used a different alloy?
HAH manifold??
 

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Ok. The JNA manifold. Well, pull out the scale and weigh them all! I weighed the original v6 aluminum one vs the 08 RL one, the difference was almost 10lb.
 

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Ok. The JNA manifold. Well, pull out the scale and weigh them all! I weighed the original v6 aluminum one vs the 08 RL one, the difference was almost 10lb.
Ok, fully assembled, the JNA manifold weighs 12.4 lbs, while the stock manifold weighs 17.8 lbs. The 06 Acura manifold weights 16.4 lbs. Also, while the Acura manifold uses the same cast as the JNA manifold, it does not have (Mg) cast into the top cover.

Looks like Acura switched from aluminum to magnesium sometime in 2007 then. The weight difference is probably just because the two piece cast is lighter. The Acura manifold looks and feels like aluminum, and where the bare metal is exposed it is shiny and silver rather than the full gray of magnesium.

Well, a little disappointing. Anyone want a J35 manifold?
 

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Well, where did you get that manifold? Everything I knew before 2007 was aluminum, the same thing goes for the TL, Odyssey and all the other J35 engines They did not get mag manifolds until 2007 or 2008, the last years of the 3rd gen TL. You have to really do your research before just randomly getting a manifold. I did a ton of research before buying the correct online. Most newer ones do not have a port for the IAT sensor and some guys drill and tap.
 

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Well, where did you get that manifold? Everything I knew before 2007 was aluminum, the same thing goes for the TL, Odyssey and all the other J35 engines They did not get mag manifolds until 2007 or 2008, the last years of the 3rd gen TL. You have to really do your research before just randomly getting a manifold. I did a ton of research before buying the correct online. Most newer ones do not have a port for the IAT sensor and some guys drill and tap.
Junkyard, same as my JNA manifold, off a 2006 RL. It was very hot and I was more interested in getting out of the sun quickly than doing any close inspection, I assumed all two-piece manifolds were mag. Only cost me $25, so not the end of the world. Interestingly, the JNA manifold was off a 2005 and is magnesium.

But Odysseys got Mag manifolds? Those are much easier to find.
 

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Junkyard, same as my JNA manifold, off a 2006 RL. It was very hot and I was more interested in getting out of the sun quickly than doing any close inspection, I assumed all two-piece manifolds were mag. Only cost me $25, so not the end of the world. Interestingly, the JNA manifold was off a 2005 and is magnesium.

But Odysseys got Mag manifolds? Those are much easier to find.
I can only say that Honda did a lot of first experimental items on the 7th gen Hybrid Accord. First mag manifold, first electric power steering, aluminum rear suspension knuckles. Those items later on became standard on the newer Honda's for weight reduction.

You can use the manifold from 07 Honda Odyssey, however, you need to change out the top cover for max air volume or you do the same butterfly valve deletes with jagged edges remain inside. You also need to remove the butterfly valve motor assembly and plug it up with the cover from Prank parts, http://prankparts.com/ The manifold from 08+ Odyssey does not have an open IAT port and you'll need to drill and tap.
 

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I can only say that Honda did a lot of first experimental items on the 7th gen Hybrid Accord. First mag manifold, first electric power steering, aluminum rear suspension knuckles. Those items later on became standard on the newer Honda's for weight reduction.
S2000 had electric power steering before the Accord...
 

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S2000 had electric power steering before the Accord...
Point taken. I wanted to point out that the 7th gen Accord Hybrid V6 was the first Accord to get electric power steering.

However, if you want my real opinion, I still think hydraulic driven power steering is better with actual road feel and not computer controlled steering with torque and angle sensors, it's also less prone to issues like the PS recall that's happening for the 9th gen Accords.
 

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I can only say that Honda did a lot of first experimental items on the 7th gen Hybrid Accord. First mag manifold, first electric power steering, aluminum rear suspension knuckles. Those items later on became standard on the newer Honda's for weight reduction.

You can use the manifold from 07 Honda Odyssey, however, you need to change out the top cover for max air volume or you do the same butterfly valve deletes with jagged edges remain inside. You also need to remove the butterfly valve motor assembly and plug it up with the cover from Prank parts, Prank Parts The manifold from 08+ Odyssey does not have an open IAT port and you'll need to drill and tap.
According to the parts diagram the even the later odysseys did have an IAT port? I'm grabbing this stuff in person, so I'll take a long hard look at it before I buy it this time.
 

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2005 LX, K24A4, 5MT, 220k
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Update: I attempted to remove my cat. Fasteners were soaked in kroil overnight and then I realized that there’s hardly any exposed thread on those studs so there wasn’t much I could clean up with my brushes. I hit the most accessible nut with my impact and it appeared to be spinning but instead was just rounding it off.

So after debating further action and driving dad’s danger ranger for a month, I gave up and took it to a local shop. I had the walker direct fit from rock auto and I got gaskets, bolts, and sealant from Amazon for about $250 all together. The labor, tax, and a new rear o2 sensor ran $365. It’s the first time somebody else has been under the hood in 5 years so I think I got out okay. Hell, they even rinsed the pollen off.

The throttle response is nice now. Hitting vtech smoothly and also holding highway cruising speeds uphill in 5th gear.
 
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