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Changed my interstate 51R to a new one, previous one had a 2016 stamp. LOL This may be the last battery ever?

Car was struggling a bit to fully crank. It didn't dawn on me that it would be the battery, until today when it took a long long time. I may eventually change that ignition switch and relay just to be sure. Feel like I'm coming on the home stretch with this car. Whatever work is done may be her last. I hope this car lasts another 5-7 years.
 

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Day before yesterday bought and threw the 18s on. Yesterday detailed said 18s and gave her a bath, and detailed my wheels. Today took the back wheels off and power sanded the brake drums and primed them, now waiting for them to dry to apply the color coat. Could have just bought new drums. Potatoe.. tomatoe. Better than the rust finish I suppose.
 

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Within past weeks or so, replaced radiator, fixed from passenger window with almost no parts required, (it was an interesting saga), the issue may comeback, we shall see. Also, found that someone's meat hooks have been in the pass door wiring connector behind the glove box, one of the locking tabs that retains crimp contacts in place was torn off, so pins were kind of loosy Goosy in there. From the trip to local junkyard acquired the replacement connector - not installed yet, rear view mirror to replace the pealed one, replacement one got too much jiggles when driving physical appearance is 99 of 100, function is supper irritable- I hate rattling mirrors. Also center console map lights had someone's meat nuggets in it as well, missing a screw in the sunglasses compartment, removed it to fix the no light from the drivers side issue when door opened, manual switch on worked fine. So I cracked the switch open bent contacts, but the reasssebly went finiky so it only worked when reefing on the switch, once let loose it lost contact, so I had a Toyota module that I bought to take garage remote out of and install it into my yotter, well it had similar switches, so I used that slightly more of a snug fit and shorted push lever/pin, but works just the same and seems to have a more of a pronounced click/detent if pushed on compared to of which on pass side works ok, now looking for replacement of missing screw and this can be buttoned up. Want to install slightly brighter ambient light in there and replace that yellowish one that's in there. Trunk lid just kind of slams down hard, weak torsion springs?
 

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Pilot without a plane
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773 Posts
@Cepega Cheap hack for the rearview mirror if there's too much play in that ball and socket joint - cut a little piece of plastic from a soda bottle and slide in there. It should tighten it up enough to not rattle whle still allowing adjustment.

I installed sylvania LEDs for all of my interior lights. Much brighter and looks better. Just get the ones they stock at Walmart in the proper size. If they don't work when you install them, flip the bulb around the other way. Diodes work as a one way check valve for electricity. I also replaced my license plate lights with LEDs after getting pulled over twice in about a month in the same little TX town and being told those lights were out (they worked just fine, but that was the excuse to mess with me).
 

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07 Accord Sedan EX V6 Auto
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376 Posts
Tried to replace the stock rear knuckle and brakes with the aluminum rear knuckle and bigger brakes from a Honda Accord Hybrid. Everything fit fine, except for the strut bushing, which is apparently a slightly different size and prevents the shock absorber from being attached. So, I get to put everything back and order a new bushing I guess.
 

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07 Sdn
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363 Posts
Changed my starter, stood back to admire the shiny new unit and new lower bolt. Then I realized wow thats a lot of space without the intake manifold and look I can see the engine mount bolts clearly. Light bulb! :unsure: :) Decided to do the engine mount too. It had started leaking and was on its way out. So easier to do with the intake out of the way :)

Honda starter pic (2).jpg
 

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07 Sdn
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363 Posts
Well to say the front engine mount was on the way out was a true understatement. Both the side and front engine mount were broken, see pic. I guess I can stop looking for the source of my vibrating idle lol :D Replaced with OEM. Now im really worried about the rear mount. Gonna move the schedule up to tackle that one soon based on this...

broken Mounts.jpg
 

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Changed my starter, stood back to admire the shiny new unit and new lower bolt. Then I realized wow thats a lot of space without the intake manifold and look I can see the engine mount bolts clearly. Light bulb! :unsure: :) Decided to do the engine mount too. It had started leaking and was on its way out. So easier to do with the intake out of the way :)

View attachment 532347
Good job. The starter was my biggest challenge, along with everything else. But I still try. Glad you got it and the mounts.
 
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2004 Honda Accord Ex Sedan
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5 Posts
Good job. The starter was my biggest challenge, along with everything else. But I still try. Glad you got it and the mounts.
My accords starter went out in the walmart parking lot a few months ago. I replaced it there. It was NOT fun
 

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ziptie princess
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tbh the only real challenge to taking the intake off is if you still have the lower brace installed

i left that off when i put the tsx intake on and it only takes me like 15 minutes to pull the intake manifold now
 

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Sneak peek. Brockway Engineering 40% stiffer non-hydraulic rubber front engine mount installed, rear will probably be installed on Thursday when I get time. 2.3lb lighter than OEM.
How does it feel? Why would you want stiffer (that's not what she said) ? As I understand it, the whole point of hydraulic is so that engine vibrations don't rattle your teeth out.
 
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Super Moderator
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How does it feel? Why would you want stiffer (that's not what she said) ? As I understand it, the whole point of hydraulic is so that engine vibrations don't rattle your teeth out.
Rear installed today. I want more power to the ground without using polyurethane bushings that just distort when stressed over time. Plus I've had a weird vibration at idle since the trans was taken out then put back in for the rebuilt since 2 years ago even with a new rear OEM mount. That weird rhythmic vibration is now gone at idle, replaced with discernable steady small shake in the cabin which I can accept. No, it's not race car shaking my teeth out level, it's all good. I noticed better throttle response right away during the test drive. The hydraulic ports were plugged off using vacuum caps, I left all the intermediate lines in-place in case I need to revert back, left the solenoid plugged in to avoid a possible CEL code.

Pic of the rear mount
532599
 

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2005 LX, K24A4, 5MT, 220k
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42 Posts
I wired up the map lights to turn on and off with the dome lights. It was maybe an hour of work, mostly spent soldering the connection to the dome light. Only $1.50 for the wire at ace. Works great! Instructions linked below.

 

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2006 Accord EX Coupe-V6
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15 Posts
532606
Nothing to exciting, but today I replaced one of the "rear seat cushion clips" that the bottom of the seat snaps into. I picked up a 4 pack off of Amazon for $10.00, so I got a few spares.
 
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