So what did you do to your 7th gen today?

Installed refurbished steering wheel and new hood insulation.

Wished my car had an engine in it.

TX Accord said:

Installed refurbished steering wheel and new hood insulation.

Wished my car had an engine in it.

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Screw the engine, put an electric motor in it. 🤣 😂

Electric thing seems to be the trend lately.

Any tips on installing spring around the corrugated rubber hose towards the airbox, item 7 ? Air Cleaner (V6) for 2006 Honda Accord | Conicelli Honda Parts

Cepega said:

Any tips on installing spring around the corrugated rubber hose towards the airbox, item 7 ? Air Cleaner (V6) for 2006 Honda Accord | Conicelli Honda Parts

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I needed a helper, but installing the spring on the hose, then installing the hose on the airbox, seemed to work the best. The hose is flexible, but if it's already attached to the airbox there's just not enough space to work.

I tried reinstalling the old spring while the hose was on airbox, it also appears that one side (the hook) of it was already stretched. Using some lube will help the hose with the spring on it slide onto box

Cepega said:

Any tips on installing spring around the corrugated rubber hose towards the airbox, item 7 ? Air Cleaner (V6) for 2006 Honda Accord | Conicelli Honda Parts

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Install the spring first, before slipping onto the air box. use needle nose pliers to hold one side, then another pliers (or hook) to pull the other end to hook up.

After destroyed one in frustration and had to buy a new one from Honda, I think I got it figured out.
(1) You NEVER need to take it off in the first place. Use a flat head screwdriver PRY the tube off the air box.
(2) Installing is slipping on action. Applying some silicone grease or liquid soap can make it easier.

Even since I installed a new spring, I've taken the air flow tube off 3 times, never touched that spring again.

The reason I took it off was to transfer it to a new hose I bought from Amazon. I also snapped one bolt near the battery the bottom one that holds the lid. As it was rusted out and the groove in the bolts body making its thickness thinner didn't make it better. New replacement from stealerahip is not a dollar or two it's like 7 bucks, so onto scrap yard or alternatives .

Did a 4-wheel brake job with Raybestos Element3 pads and rotors, and 2 rear reman'd calipers from Centric (mine were seized). I've used those rotors on other cars with good results, but this is my first time trying the pads. Noise is fine, we'll see about dust. They do have more initial bite compared to the Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic I had before, which is what I wanted, but that causes an interesting trade-off I hadn't considered: it's more difficult to modulate the brakes so you get a bit of a jerky feeling when modulating. Maybe I'll get used to it.

The outgoing combination of Brembo rotors and Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic pads lasted 4 years and 45k. Pads still had lots of life, but the rotors were rusted junk. Would not recommend the Brembos.

Also noticed that one of the parking brake cables is also seized when swapping the calipers. Don't know whether that was the cause or symptom of the seized caliper. OEM is $50, so I'll just get one of those. Looks like an easy swap.

I pulled a master window switch off from a salvage yard 2005 Odyssey which appears to be exact same as my existing master window switch, however when I plug in the new master switch then nothing happens: no light comes on, no window buttons work. Does anyone know if there is a process for programming the master switch to work? Or I may just have a bad unit from the Odyssey as it appears to not even get power as the light does not illuminate.

Replaced my rear sway bar bushings today. Rear suspension has quite a bit of rust but I wont touch that since everything there is still functional.

Diagnosed my parasitic draw problem which came down to 2 items:
1) Bad driver door master window switch. It works fully, but draws additional current when the vehicle is off. See above.
2) Bad audio/iPod connector that I had put in about 2 years back which I got from a salvage yard. I only used it a few times.

I removed both but now I am stuck with finding a master window switch that works.

@StimulusAccord
Please check out this post from my window switch experience. It may help you.

A bunch of old timers were congregating yesterday on parking lot of local O'Reilly's auto with their mustangs, I thought about pulling into the lot and flex with my 7th gen to add some color to that boring party. 🤣 😂 🤣

I checked .. I think the switch I have is a bad one. Since I do not have a rush then I will wait to get another master window switch from the salvage yard, assuming it does not get pulled on day 1.

I also started reading through the whole thread. Really interesting! Next time I need to get myself a car from the south without the rust.

TX Accord said:

@StimulusAccord
Please check out this post from my window switch experience. It may help you.

One owner '03 Honda Accord EX V-6 6-spd trying for...

I'm starting a thread to document the push to get our Accord to one million miles and beyond. My wife bought our Accord at Pensacola Honda in 2003. It was her primary car for several years and now it is my daily driver. It has been a phenomenally reliable car and is still in great shape...

www.driveaccord.net

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Cepega said:

A bunch of old timers were congregating yesterday on parking lot of local O'Reilly's auto with their mustangs, I thought about pulling into the lot and flex with my 7th gen to add some color to that boring party. 🤣 😂 🤣

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Hey, I did that with my diesel buddies !!! Had just bought my Accord about a week earlier, and they started giving me crap about buying a 'Ricer". That all stopped when I told them I got 28+ mpg on my first tank, and it "only" cost me less than $45 to fill up (when gas was $3.55 and diesel was pushing $5+) they changed their tune!!!

StimulusAccord said:

I checked .. I think the switch I have is a bad one. Since I do not have a rush then I will wait to get another master window switch from the salvage yard, assuming it does not get pulled on day 1.

I also started reading through the whole thread. Really interesting! Next time I need to get myself a car from the south without the rust.

Click to expand...

I've seen somewhere that you need to get the driver main/master window switch correct to your trim as it was different for lower trims.

Got the JDM engine ready to send back. Ordered new Honda J30A4 from P2R.

rvsarch said:

Washed off the pollen.
View attachment 550196

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Nice, my two cars next please 🥺

I’ve put about 1300 miles on the new engine and I gotta say, it rips. I’ve been driving a little aggressively, at least as far as acceleration. Still getting over 27mpg. Oil is still at the upper mark, first time that’s happened since I’ve owned it.

I ordered a new exhaust header from DC sports. Should be in this morning. I’ll probably have that installed by next weekend along with a Yonaka catback exhaust.